Transcript
1
00:00:00,240 --> 00:00:03,558
Folks shop where I shop when I need that special bottle or that
2
00:00:03,614 --> 00:00:07,302
special bourbon, and that's total wine and more because you're going to love what
3
00:00:07,326 --> 00:00:10,750
you find and find what you love. With so many great bottles to choose
4
00:00:10,790 --> 00:00:14,110
from at always the lowest prices, you're going to find that Cabernet,
5
00:00:14,150 --> 00:00:17,894
Chardonnay, Bordeaux, piedmontese wine that you love. But if you like
6
00:00:17,942 --> 00:00:21,662
whiskey like I do for my great Manhattans, one of their single barrel
7
00:00:21,686 --> 00:00:25,350
bourbons is going to. You're going to flip out. And they have friendly guides
8
00:00:25,390 --> 00:00:28,926
there all the time to help you find that particular bourbon that you like and
9
00:00:28,958 --> 00:00:32,702
or wine. And if you're hosting friends or family and you don't have time to
10
00:00:32,726 --> 00:00:36,318
shop in the store, that's no problem. Total wine and more makes it easy to
11
00:00:36,334 --> 00:00:39,910
get everything you need because you can use their curbside pickup or
12
00:00:39,950 --> 00:00:43,382
delivery. But the best thing about shopping at total wine is that you always know
13
00:00:43,406 --> 00:00:47,118
you're going to have the satisfaction of finding something amazing with the
14
00:00:47,134 --> 00:00:50,822
lowest prices for over 30 years. Find what you love and love what you
15
00:00:50,846 --> 00:00:54,670
find only at total wine and more curbside pickup
16
00:00:54,710 --> 00:00:57,204
and delivery available in most areas. Visit
17
00:00:57,252 --> 00:01:00,636
totalwine.com to learn more. Because
18
00:01:00,708 --> 00:01:04,124
spirits not sold in Virginia and North Carolina drink
19
00:01:04,172 --> 00:01:07,800
responsibly. B 21 Carson
20
00:01:08,500 --> 00:01:12,280
Leno Fallon now
21
00:01:12,980 --> 00:01:16,560
it's wine talks with Paul K.
22
00:01:17,700 --> 00:01:21,004
Hey, welcome to wine talks with Paul K. And we are at away game in
23
00:01:21,012 --> 00:01:24,220
the grave district, the Pesach Leonon no see. Is it also
24
00:01:24,260 --> 00:01:27,844
pesachelnion or is it the grave Pesachelon? Engrave the grave
25
00:01:27,892 --> 00:01:30,920
region and the appellation of pesachelion. So the sub region.
26
00:01:32,580 --> 00:01:36,412
Hey, I want you guys to have a listen to a podcast I did
27
00:01:36,436 --> 00:01:40,012
with Paul Warston. Just came out a few weeks ago, and that is because
28
00:01:40,156 --> 00:01:43,508
he is the winemaker of an eight acre
29
00:01:43,644 --> 00:01:47,140
vineyard in Bel Air, California, if not known as
30
00:01:47,180 --> 00:01:50,840
Beverly Hills. The question is, who makes wine in Beverly
31
00:01:50,880 --> 00:01:54,616
Hills? Well, Paul does. It's a great conversation as well. There's another episode
32
00:01:54,648 --> 00:01:58,408
just came out with Julie Hernandez. Julie walked into my office
33
00:01:58,544 --> 00:02:02,344
about 20 years ago. I told myself, this young woman will never make it
34
00:02:02,352 --> 00:02:05,720
in this industry. It's too hard. And she became a local executive, one of the
35
00:02:05,760 --> 00:02:09,488
largest distributors in California, and she just retired. And it
36
00:02:09,504 --> 00:02:12,032
wasn't for her. I think wine of the month club would have been in dire
37
00:02:12,096 --> 00:02:15,448
straits to find wine and to make deals in this industry. So listen to
38
00:02:15,464 --> 00:02:18,892
that, but not why we're here. We're here to see and have a conversation with
39
00:02:18,916 --> 00:02:22,460
veteran Lisanders Van Beck and she's the director
40
00:02:22,540 --> 00:02:26,340
president of a Chateau aux Bailly here in the grave in the Pesach
41
00:02:26,380 --> 00:02:30,084
L'Oignon district. But welcome to the show. Thank you. Thank you, Paul.
42
00:02:30,172 --> 00:02:33,920
It's so fun because we met at the tasting
43
00:02:34,300 --> 00:02:37,916
at that crazy museum. What was that thing? That Uncle
44
00:02:37,948 --> 00:02:41,460
Ben's museum or something? Brain brainwashing.
45
00:02:41,500 --> 00:02:45,052
Brainwash, that's right. You have a better memory. And that was
46
00:02:45,076 --> 00:02:48,596
with Maison Marc domain group.
47
00:02:48,748 --> 00:02:52,508
And I want to talk about that too. A little bit, but more interesting. I
48
00:02:52,524 --> 00:02:55,988
just read this morning that you poured wine at a very
49
00:02:56,044 --> 00:02:59,372
important dinner at Versailles. And tell
50
00:02:59,396 --> 00:03:02,884
me President Macron was there. I mean, this is pretty serious
51
00:03:02,932 --> 00:03:06,532
stuff. Yes, this is a beautiful event which is
52
00:03:06,556 --> 00:03:10,340
called choose France. And Mister
53
00:03:10,380 --> 00:03:13,732
Macron invited top leaders around the world who
54
00:03:13,756 --> 00:03:17,598
might invest in France or investing in France.
55
00:03:17,734 --> 00:03:21,502
So it was a dinner for, I think, 300 top
56
00:03:21,566 --> 00:03:25,414
businessmen from all around
57
00:03:25,462 --> 00:03:29,022
the world. And they choose obey. So choose, friends choose
58
00:03:29,046 --> 00:03:32,518
obey. That's right. Choose France. Choose. That's our new
59
00:03:32,574 --> 00:03:35,930
slogan, right? Exactly. Cause that's a
60
00:03:36,790 --> 00:03:40,478
pretty impressive accolade that the president of the country would choose
61
00:03:40,574 --> 00:03:43,844
to for that. Did obeyee always have that
62
00:03:43,892 --> 00:03:47,260
distinction in the world of wine? Or is that a more current
63
00:03:47,420 --> 00:03:51,100
distinction? Or is it something that you earn and takes a long
64
00:03:51,140 --> 00:03:54,588
time? I think Obaii has a very long history
65
00:03:54,724 --> 00:03:58,108
and a beautiful history. It always belonged to very strong
66
00:03:58,164 --> 00:04:01,844
personalities. And if you are looking at the
67
00:04:02,012 --> 00:04:04,748
great golden age of obey, between
68
00:04:04,844 --> 00:04:08,500
1872 and 1940, Aubai was selling at the same
69
00:04:08,540 --> 00:04:12,296
price as the first gross Lafitte Latour, Margot Aubrion.
70
00:04:12,468 --> 00:04:16,104
And at that time it was already very much looked
71
00:04:16,152 --> 00:04:19,860
after, regarded, considered.
72
00:04:21,680 --> 00:04:25,304
More recently, I know that Dominique de Villepin chose
73
00:04:25,352 --> 00:04:28,488
aubailly for meeting in New York
74
00:04:28,664 --> 00:04:30,740
with La Nue
75
00:04:32,160 --> 00:04:35,528
as a beautiful image of a french
76
00:04:35,584 --> 00:04:39,242
terroir which belonged to an american. So it was
77
00:04:39,266 --> 00:04:43,018
a symbolic wine chosen for
78
00:04:43,074 --> 00:04:46,586
this event to show also the friendship between our two
79
00:04:46,618 --> 00:04:50,390
countries. And you gave us the Statue of Liberty. I mean,
80
00:04:51,930 --> 00:04:55,618
that's a very important thing. No, that's an interesting thought though, you just
81
00:04:55,634 --> 00:04:59,290
said, because I'm here with a large group of friends and
82
00:04:59,330 --> 00:05:03,178
cousins and family and clients as well. And they're learning about
83
00:05:03,194 --> 00:05:06,562
the classification of 1855. They're learning about the classification of
84
00:05:06,586 --> 00:05:10,390
1955. And here you're saying, which I thought when Napoleon
85
00:05:10,430 --> 00:05:13,854
III, the great nephew, right, of the great general,
86
00:05:14,022 --> 00:05:17,810
decided to do the classification, it was really for
87
00:05:18,230 --> 00:05:21,966
elevating the popularity of Bordeaux to the world's
88
00:05:21,998 --> 00:05:24,570
eye. Right at the fair in Paris.
89
00:05:26,550 --> 00:05:29,694
And you were selling at the same price. And I always thought that the original
90
00:05:29,742 --> 00:05:32,090
classification was kind of based on the price.
91
00:05:33,540 --> 00:05:36,452
Actually, the classification of the medoc was done in
92
00:05:36,476 --> 00:05:40,132
1855, but don't forget that in Bordeaux, you
93
00:05:40,196 --> 00:05:44,020
don't only have one classification, but you have several classifications.
94
00:05:44,140 --> 00:05:47,868
You have the one of the medoc and Sauternes made in 1855,
95
00:05:48,004 --> 00:05:51,600
which was supposed to last just the time of the world exhibition,
96
00:05:52,220 --> 00:05:55,732
based on price, but you also have the one of Saint Emilion,
97
00:05:55,916 --> 00:05:59,324
which is more recent, and the one of the classified growth of
98
00:05:59,372 --> 00:06:02,972
grave, which was done one century
99
00:06:03,036 --> 00:06:06,488
after. And we belong to that. That one. And
100
00:06:06,624 --> 00:06:10,376
Pomerol doesn't have any classification, although Petrus might be
101
00:06:10,408 --> 00:06:13,880
the most famous wine around the world. So that's an interesting
102
00:06:13,920 --> 00:06:17,232
concept, though, because nowhere else in the world, except for maybe Italy, the
103
00:06:17,256 --> 00:06:21,048
DOCG and Doc. And that's just not really a ranking, that's just the
104
00:06:21,144 --> 00:06:24,912
classification of the appellation. Does this exist?
105
00:06:25,096 --> 00:06:28,488
And we had a conversation yesterday with Cheval
106
00:06:28,504 --> 00:06:32,300
Blanc Angelus, and talking about how
107
00:06:32,920 --> 00:06:34,420
I always have a hard time with
108
00:06:36,800 --> 00:06:40,480
their chardonnay, that they've opted
109
00:06:40,520 --> 00:06:44,216
out of the classification in Saint Emilion because
110
00:06:44,288 --> 00:06:47,460
it included hospitality service,
111
00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:52,672
hotel options. And they said, we're not going to
112
00:06:52,696 --> 00:06:55,740
play that game. Parking was part of this conversation.
113
00:06:56,400 --> 00:07:00,030
Do you think, just personally, that it should be a dynamic.
114
00:07:00,570 --> 00:07:04,202
Well, the case of Saint Emilion is special because it's a
115
00:07:04,266 --> 00:07:08,098
classification which is reopened every ten years. So if the
116
00:07:08,114 --> 00:07:11,818
rules of the game change, I can understand that some of them
117
00:07:11,954 --> 00:07:15,602
disagree or want to do differently. In
118
00:07:15,626 --> 00:07:18,930
our case, in the grave, it's very stable and it never
119
00:07:18,970 --> 00:07:22,658
reopened. So we are 14 classified growth with
120
00:07:22,714 --> 00:07:26,354
Aubrion being on leadership or leader or
121
00:07:26,402 --> 00:07:29,942
flagship. I mean, and all the
122
00:07:29,966 --> 00:07:33,806
classified growths are based in Pesach, like Aubreyon and Lamis
123
00:07:33,838 --> 00:07:37,342
Aubrion, and in Lyonon, where we are located with Aubai.
124
00:07:37,526 --> 00:07:41,166
So that's interesting. It leads to this
125
00:07:41,198 --> 00:07:43,410
conversation about culture of wine.
126
00:07:45,430 --> 00:07:49,230
This group I'm with, we're learning that the french culture
127
00:07:49,270 --> 00:07:52,558
is wine. In fact, one of your representatives at Lepte
128
00:07:52,654 --> 00:07:56,382
said, you're almost not french if you don't like wine, which is
129
00:07:56,406 --> 00:08:00,060
a cute saying. That's what she meant. And I thought, that's
130
00:08:00,100 --> 00:08:03,740
very different than what the american view
131
00:08:03,780 --> 00:08:07,628
of wine is. The american view is you go to Napa Valley, you
132
00:08:07,644 --> 00:08:09,040
go up and down the highway,
133
00:08:12,060 --> 00:08:15,308
you make a lot of money in your career, and you buy a winery and
134
00:08:15,324 --> 00:08:19,148
you get to live this lifestyle. And it's the next step of
135
00:08:19,164 --> 00:08:22,956
a lifestyle instead of in Europe and in France. And particularly, it
136
00:08:22,988 --> 00:08:26,464
is the lifestyle. You're here every day,
137
00:08:26,512 --> 00:08:30,208
you live it, you breathe it. And it takes this passion to do that. And
138
00:08:30,304 --> 00:08:33,952
you started with your father. I started with my grandfather. Your
139
00:08:33,976 --> 00:08:37,712
grandfather? Yes. I think it's more than a
140
00:08:37,736 --> 00:08:41,456
lifestyle. It's a mission. And it's something
141
00:08:41,528 --> 00:08:45,140
you do by passion. And with passion,
142
00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:50,400
you can never stop working. You can work seven days a week
143
00:08:50,440 --> 00:08:53,340
and 365 days a year because
144
00:08:54,550 --> 00:08:58,286
you always have an eye on what's going
145
00:08:58,318 --> 00:09:02,118
on in the field, what the weather going to be, what are
146
00:09:02,134 --> 00:09:05,958
the challenges you're going to have to deal with. So it's
147
00:09:05,974 --> 00:09:09,558
a never ending process. It is also a
148
00:09:09,574 --> 00:09:13,398
lifestyle, a beautiful lifestyle. And at Le Pape, you had a little bit
149
00:09:13,414 --> 00:09:16,770
of this french art de vivre that we are
150
00:09:20,270 --> 00:09:23,846
having lunch and dinners every day here with
151
00:09:23,878 --> 00:09:27,594
beautiful food, fresh ingredients from the market,
152
00:09:27,762 --> 00:09:31,362
matching all the wines we are going to serve at the table.
153
00:09:31,506 --> 00:09:34,430
So it is true that we are very privileged,
154
00:09:35,410 --> 00:09:38,642
but we are also fully dedicated to our
155
00:09:38,666 --> 00:09:42,162
vineyards because we do wine, not just for
156
00:09:42,226 --> 00:09:46,018
today, but we do wine for the next generation, for people who
157
00:09:46,034 --> 00:09:49,858
are going to drink it in many, many years and enjoy the fruit of
158
00:09:49,874 --> 00:09:53,390
our work. It doesn't feel like work, does it?
159
00:09:53,720 --> 00:09:57,552
I think if you love your work and if you do it by passion, you
160
00:09:57,576 --> 00:10:01,144
never have the feeling you're working. It's a unique product, though,
161
00:10:01,272 --> 00:10:05,112
and I've had a hard time defining this or getting a definition. Maybe there
162
00:10:05,136 --> 00:10:08,816
isn't one because there is no other. And it hit me this
163
00:10:08,848 --> 00:10:12,624
morning, there's no other product in the world that requires a. Is so
164
00:10:12,672 --> 00:10:16,432
slow. You only get one chance a year to do it and to test
165
00:10:16,616 --> 00:10:20,238
what your philosophy is going to be about that vintage. And
166
00:10:20,334 --> 00:10:23,370
there's no product that brings people together like this product.
167
00:10:23,990 --> 00:10:27,822
Here we are traveling the world with my group, and
168
00:10:27,846 --> 00:10:31,622
it's focused on visiting places like Obaee and
169
00:10:31,766 --> 00:10:35,558
learning more about that culture. And I can't think of another
170
00:10:35,614 --> 00:10:39,270
product that feels like that. A stilo. A pen
171
00:10:39,310 --> 00:10:42,902
doesn't do that. Paper doesn't do that. A semiconductor doesn't do that. My
172
00:10:42,966 --> 00:10:46,484
iPhone, I don't gather over my iPhone, but we gather over
173
00:10:46,532 --> 00:10:50,092
wine. And I don't know if it's because it's a conduit to the
174
00:10:50,116 --> 00:10:53,492
soul or the soil or what. I think, first of
175
00:10:53,516 --> 00:10:56,480
all, wine is part of civilization.
176
00:10:57,140 --> 00:11:00,276
Everywhere you have a civilization, you will have
177
00:11:00,308 --> 00:11:04,052
wine. It's also. You're
178
00:11:04,076 --> 00:11:07,716
mentioning a stilo. It can be yogurt. It's very different
179
00:11:07,868 --> 00:11:11,480
from any industrial product, because
180
00:11:11,980 --> 00:11:15,692
even if we want to make the best wine as possible every year,
181
00:11:15,796 --> 00:11:19,580
at the end of the year, we will do only what is possible to
182
00:11:19,620 --> 00:11:23,460
do, because we are dependent from the weather. So
183
00:11:23,540 --> 00:11:27,316
nature will decide or God will decide of what
184
00:11:27,348 --> 00:11:30,852
we are able to do or not. So we just have to
185
00:11:30,876 --> 00:11:34,468
adapt permanently. And this adaptation
186
00:11:34,604 --> 00:11:37,916
makes our job fascinating, because every year is a new
187
00:11:37,948 --> 00:11:41,596
story. Every year we write a
188
00:11:41,628 --> 00:11:45,168
new history on the white page. And we learn from scratch every
189
00:11:45,224 --> 00:11:48,176
year. Our job changed
190
00:11:48,368 --> 00:11:51,580
incredibly in the last 25 years. And
191
00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:55,784
you're right. I mean, in the end, you are sharing
192
00:11:55,832 --> 00:11:59,296
this product with people who love food, who
193
00:11:59,328 --> 00:12:02,480
love art, who have many passions.
194
00:12:02,640 --> 00:12:06,432
And when you have a great wine on a table, the discussions
195
00:12:06,496 --> 00:12:10,192
are always remarkable. It's pretty amazing. And I
196
00:12:10,216 --> 00:12:14,036
thank my father for that. Exposed me to it
197
00:12:14,068 --> 00:12:17,252
young. We had a wine shop. I stocked the
198
00:12:17,276 --> 00:12:20,820
shelves. I was learning then and
199
00:12:20,980 --> 00:12:24,788
coming on a trip like this and learning more. After 35 years
200
00:12:24,804 --> 00:12:28,300
of selling wine, I still learned every time I sit down with people like you
201
00:12:28,340 --> 00:12:31,680
to understand more about what we're doing. It sounds like to me
202
00:12:32,180 --> 00:12:35,836
there's a certain humility to what you just said, because you don't get to
203
00:12:35,868 --> 00:12:39,580
decide what's going to happen because of the weather. And God gets to tell
204
00:12:39,620 --> 00:12:43,364
you what we're going to produce and you get to do the best you can
205
00:12:43,412 --> 00:12:46,876
with it. And that sort of is humbling experience, right?
206
00:12:46,948 --> 00:12:50,588
Unlike the wines we find at the supermarkets
207
00:12:50,764 --> 00:12:54,020
that are on a formula, we're going to add so much sugar, so much acid,
208
00:12:54,060 --> 00:12:57,332
we're going to make it taste like it did last year. I understand those are
209
00:12:57,356 --> 00:13:01,172
important vintages to have for people to get used to wine. But
210
00:13:01,196 --> 00:13:05,002
in this case, and in most cases, there's a certain humility
211
00:13:05,106 --> 00:13:08,590
required to do this. I love this word of
212
00:13:08,930 --> 00:13:12,626
humility, because you know where it comes from. Humility
213
00:13:12,698 --> 00:13:16,482
comes from humus in Latin, and it
214
00:13:16,506 --> 00:13:20,186
means earth. Oh, I did not know that. Wow. So. And
215
00:13:20,258 --> 00:13:23,874
all of our work is to look at our vineyards,
216
00:13:23,962 --> 00:13:27,666
look at the 90% of our work is
217
00:13:27,698 --> 00:13:30,830
outside in the field. And to make a great wine,
218
00:13:31,410 --> 00:13:35,186
you do it outside. Then you may have a beautiful cellar with
219
00:13:35,218 --> 00:13:38,938
lots of technology at the service of your terroir.
220
00:13:39,034 --> 00:13:42,762
But we all are focused on our
221
00:13:42,826 --> 00:13:46,546
ground, on our soil and our subsoil, on the
222
00:13:46,578 --> 00:13:50,186
plant which is on it. And the many, many number of
223
00:13:50,258 --> 00:13:53,110
hours of work for each plant.
224
00:13:54,810 --> 00:13:58,530
Our soil or vineyard is low, so it keeps us
225
00:13:58,570 --> 00:14:02,418
humble. And humility is really a key word for sure. It's almost like
226
00:14:02,434 --> 00:14:05,970
a privilege. It's almost a privilege to be able to
227
00:14:06,090 --> 00:14:09,666
experience that and to manage that and to become part of
228
00:14:09,698 --> 00:14:13,270
that culture. It is a privilege and
229
00:14:15,570 --> 00:14:19,130
it's a mission, because my job would be to
230
00:14:19,170 --> 00:14:22,970
transmit it to the next generation. We are at the service
231
00:14:23,090 --> 00:14:26,230
of our vineyard for a few years, few decades.
232
00:14:26,610 --> 00:14:29,938
We inherit something from the past. We have
233
00:14:29,994 --> 00:14:33,450
to take care of this
234
00:14:33,490 --> 00:14:36,986
patrimoine of all vines, and we
235
00:14:37,018 --> 00:14:40,858
plant the oldest vines into new vines
236
00:14:40,954 --> 00:14:44,498
in order that the next generation can also benefit from
237
00:14:44,554 --> 00:14:48,210
something which has been regenerated. And
238
00:14:48,370 --> 00:14:52,082
yes, it is a privilege, it's a duty, and it's
239
00:14:52,106 --> 00:14:55,562
an honor to serve a terroir like obey. Is there another
240
00:14:55,626 --> 00:14:59,230
generation? So after.
241
00:14:59,530 --> 00:15:03,322
There's always another generation. My son is
242
00:15:03,346 --> 00:15:06,710
15 years old and the Wilmers family owning it
243
00:15:07,090 --> 00:15:10,762
right now. There is the second
244
00:15:10,826 --> 00:15:14,642
generation at the head of it right now. Congratulations. That's great. I didn't have a
245
00:15:14,666 --> 00:15:18,018
generation. I have three daughters. They're beautiful daughters. And I told you about one of
246
00:15:18,034 --> 00:15:21,266
them. But the wine trade in
247
00:15:21,298 --> 00:15:24,990
California, on the Internet, we're retailers, wholesalers,
248
00:15:26,020 --> 00:15:29,780
you know, it's gotten so difficult, you know,
249
00:15:29,820 --> 00:15:33,052
managing the Internet sales, you know, 50
250
00:15:33,116 --> 00:15:36,956
regulations of 50 states. I wasn't fortunate
251
00:15:36,988 --> 00:15:39,892
enough to be able to hand it off, so I was. We got two generations
252
00:15:39,956 --> 00:15:43,756
under our belt and then it moved on to another group. But I was
253
00:15:43,788 --> 00:15:47,316
honored to be part of it and to participate in it.
254
00:15:47,348 --> 00:15:50,896
And you're right, you can't. It never leaves you
255
00:15:51,068 --> 00:15:54,576
like I'm here today because I love talking about it and hearing the
256
00:15:54,608 --> 00:15:58,232
philosophy about it. Even though I don't sell it every day anymore.
257
00:15:58,336 --> 00:16:02,152
I just love learning more and more as I can. So you just
258
00:16:02,176 --> 00:16:05,928
got done with on premiere. I think for the listeners we should. They've probably
259
00:16:05,984 --> 00:16:08,648
seen it around on the Internet, they probably saw it on LinkedIn, they probably saw
260
00:16:08,664 --> 00:16:12,208
it on Facebook or Instagram. That this idea of en premier,
261
00:16:12,384 --> 00:16:16,152
which, if you would give an explanation from the winery side of
262
00:16:16,176 --> 00:16:19,330
things, what happens during on premiere. So what
263
00:16:19,370 --> 00:16:23,194
happens is that we just showed last
264
00:16:23,242 --> 00:16:26,946
month, the last baby, the 23 vintage to
265
00:16:26,978 --> 00:16:30,802
the whole world. Everybody came and tasted and
266
00:16:30,906 --> 00:16:34,474
made its own opinion. And I think the quality
267
00:16:34,602 --> 00:16:38,162
is beautiful about this vintage. And people were.
268
00:16:38,266 --> 00:16:42,090
It gave a smile to everyone and everybody went back home
269
00:16:42,210 --> 00:16:45,898
thinking, wow, this is another great vintage of Bordeaux. How many people
270
00:16:45,954 --> 00:16:49,690
came through Obais? A few thousand. Really? Yes. In few
271
00:16:49,730 --> 00:16:53,554
days we welcome more than almost 3000 people. So that's a
272
00:16:53,562 --> 00:16:56,430
lot of people. But it's very
273
00:16:58,290 --> 00:17:01,986
energetic. You know, you get this energy and the fact that Bordeaux
274
00:17:02,018 --> 00:17:05,658
interests so many people around the world is just fascinating. And
275
00:17:05,754 --> 00:17:09,346
it was great to be able to show the level of quality of his
276
00:17:09,378 --> 00:17:13,226
vintage. And since few weeks we have the releases going on. So
277
00:17:13,258 --> 00:17:16,801
every day, a few chateau release their prize, and the consumer is
278
00:17:16,825 --> 00:17:20,553
able to buy our wines in advance
279
00:17:20,721 --> 00:17:23,993
in order to benefit from a good deal.
280
00:17:24,041 --> 00:17:27,401
Actually, the wine will be cheaper than what it will
281
00:17:27,425 --> 00:17:31,029
be when they find it in a few years on the shelves.
282
00:17:31,409 --> 00:17:35,097
And they can also choose the format they want to buy.
283
00:17:35,193 --> 00:17:38,337
So imagine you have a new baby or a
284
00:17:38,353 --> 00:17:42,105
grandchild, or if you get married and you want to get
285
00:17:42,137 --> 00:17:45,905
your wine in. Magnums, double magnums, double. Nine
286
00:17:45,937 --> 00:17:49,246
pound, 10oz. Exactly. So you can select your format.
287
00:17:49,318 --> 00:17:52,090
And that's something you should always do
288
00:17:53,190 --> 00:17:55,010
to celebrate later on.
289
00:17:57,390 --> 00:18:00,970
Sitting here is an honor for me.
290
00:18:01,870 --> 00:18:05,530
There's few women in this industry.
291
00:18:06,150 --> 00:18:09,870
I was talking to you earlier in the vineyard, about in America,
292
00:18:09,950 --> 00:18:12,930
the movement for women in wine is
293
00:18:15,200 --> 00:18:18,992
a real movement. It's got a lot of traction. They're saying that now
294
00:18:19,056 --> 00:18:22,336
25% of the graduates of enology school are
295
00:18:22,368 --> 00:18:25,872
women, but in the executive ranks, we're at seven or
296
00:18:25,896 --> 00:18:29,592
8%. And there's a strong sense of
297
00:18:29,696 --> 00:18:33,280
changing that, moving the needle for that, I was very
298
00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:35,580
honored. I had an intern
299
00:18:37,680 --> 00:18:41,432
here in my office, and her job was to write the notes for all
300
00:18:41,456 --> 00:18:45,236
the podcasts I was doing with young women. Winemakers
301
00:18:45,388 --> 00:18:49,076
inspired her to go to school. So she's at Cornell University, getting her
302
00:18:49,108 --> 00:18:52,836
eenology degree today, and I feel good about that. I'm
303
00:18:52,868 --> 00:18:56,556
happy we're able to enlighten a young person to the
304
00:18:56,628 --> 00:19:00,160
value of a glass of wine. But in France,
305
00:19:00,460 --> 00:19:04,204
is it a structured movement? Because your
306
00:19:04,252 --> 00:19:07,360
position in this company is pretty rare.
307
00:19:08,060 --> 00:19:10,938
I mean, we can find the right ones. We'll talk about a couple of the
308
00:19:11,044 --> 00:19:14,878
historical women in this business. But is it rare right now for somebody in
309
00:19:14,894 --> 00:19:18,558
your position as a female? I think it's a natural movement, and
310
00:19:18,574 --> 00:19:21,530
it's more and more women joining the industry
311
00:19:23,350 --> 00:19:27,086
in every field can be in the vineyard, can be in the cellar, it can
312
00:19:27,118 --> 00:19:30,726
be selling wine, or even managing an
313
00:19:30,758 --> 00:19:33,990
estate. So when I had this
314
00:19:34,030 --> 00:19:37,654
opportunity more than 25 years ago, it was thanks
315
00:19:37,702 --> 00:19:41,408
to the Odas of an American, Bob Willmers,
316
00:19:41,504 --> 00:19:45,120
who bought the estate to my family, and who trusted
317
00:19:45,240 --> 00:19:49,072
a young girl. But that was very new and
318
00:19:49,096 --> 00:19:52,780
very audacious at that time. And I always considered that
319
00:19:53,080 --> 00:19:56,872
to be a woman was an advantage. You are seated next to
320
00:19:56,896 --> 00:20:00,400
the most interesting guys, and then you listen
321
00:20:00,440 --> 00:20:04,256
and you learn. And today you have more
322
00:20:04,288 --> 00:20:07,824
and more women everywhere. I believe also in
323
00:20:07,872 --> 00:20:11,450
complementarity. And at Aubai,
324
00:20:11,530 --> 00:20:15,058
what is very interesting is that in the field,
325
00:20:15,194 --> 00:20:18,602
we have 50% of men, 50% of women in the
326
00:20:18,626 --> 00:20:22,386
cellar, the same, in the offices, the same. Although
327
00:20:22,458 --> 00:20:26,106
I'm against parity. I think you have jobs where men are better,
328
00:20:26,178 --> 00:20:29,950
jobs where women are better. But just by luck or
329
00:20:30,330 --> 00:20:34,150
by the belief of complementarity, we are 50 50
330
00:20:34,690 --> 00:20:38,430
everywhere in the company. Well, it's by skill set, by
331
00:20:38,730 --> 00:20:41,558
the fact that you can do the job. We don't care. We're just going to
332
00:20:41,574 --> 00:20:45,222
hire the best people for the job. You know, the woman I mentioned earlier when
333
00:20:45,246 --> 00:20:48,886
we started the show, it was a true story. She came in to sell me
334
00:20:48,918 --> 00:20:52,030
wine. I thought, this young lady's never going to make it. And she was very
335
00:20:52,110 --> 00:20:55,958
tough, still a very pleasant young lady. And we have a great
336
00:20:56,014 --> 00:20:59,806
relationship post our careers because of this work she
337
00:20:59,838 --> 00:21:03,610
did. But I thought, man, this is a dog eat dog world. And she
338
00:21:04,150 --> 00:21:08,000
tells the story about how difficult the latter
339
00:21:08,040 --> 00:21:11,712
rungs were for her career to path where she went. I mean,
340
00:21:11,736 --> 00:21:15,336
she really, really worked hard. And I truly believe the success of my
341
00:21:15,368 --> 00:21:19,208
company was partially on her back because she
342
00:21:19,264 --> 00:21:22,432
produced for me when I needed her to do. But you wrote in a previous
343
00:21:22,496 --> 00:21:25,780
interview he had the audacity to hire a girl.
344
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:30,568
So we have to give him credit for having audacity. Right? At the same time,
345
00:21:30,624 --> 00:21:34,432
that's very american. Yes, that's true. But there are
346
00:21:34,456 --> 00:21:38,304
women throughout history. I mean, Madame Clicquot was, she was
347
00:21:38,352 --> 00:21:42,048
one sharp young woman who created a market for herself
348
00:21:42,104 --> 00:21:45,920
in the russian world of champagne in England and
349
00:21:46,080 --> 00:21:49,752
cutting edge ideas. Maileon Lanka
350
00:21:49,776 --> 00:21:53,592
song who we talked about, who was at Pichon Longueville. I mean, unbelievable
351
00:21:53,656 --> 00:21:57,120
fortitude. Do you think it takes more fortitude for a woman to
352
00:21:57,160 --> 00:22:00,984
accelerate in this industry than it does maybe in France or in England? I mean,
353
00:22:01,032 --> 00:22:04,266
compared to the United States? I think it's a
354
00:22:04,298 --> 00:22:08,130
natural movement, you know, and things are
355
00:22:08,170 --> 00:22:11,554
happening because it should happen. But
356
00:22:11,722 --> 00:22:15,522
no, I think in the history of obey,
357
00:22:15,586 --> 00:22:19,250
you had amazing women in the 18th century, and not just
358
00:22:19,290 --> 00:22:23,082
for a few years, but for 30 years. One woman was running au Bailey
359
00:22:23,106 --> 00:22:26,762
in a very sharp, really? At Obaili. Yes. And you also had
360
00:22:26,786 --> 00:22:30,110
women taking care of the vineyard during the war,
361
00:22:30,730 --> 00:22:33,710
if you're thinking of the war vintages. And
362
00:22:34,690 --> 00:22:38,490
yesterday, a great american friend
363
00:22:38,650 --> 00:22:42,150
from San Francisco brought back to obey
364
00:22:42,570 --> 00:22:46,330
a 1918 bottle that we shared
365
00:22:46,370 --> 00:22:50,138
during lunch. And that was so moving because last year of
366
00:22:50,154 --> 00:22:53,986
the first world War and the wine, 106 years old,
367
00:22:54,098 --> 00:22:57,596
Washington picking it, was alive. It was, it was
368
00:22:57,628 --> 00:23:01,220
just a bubble of incredible aromas.
369
00:23:01,340 --> 00:23:04,772
And the wine was telling a story, you know, and the bottle, which has been
370
00:23:04,796 --> 00:23:08,284
traveling the world during maybe a century, was just coming back here.
371
00:23:08,412 --> 00:23:12,180
That was quite an adventure. Also, at the beginning of the week. This
372
00:23:12,220 --> 00:23:16,028
week. That is really fun. Yeah, well, you think about that. That kind
373
00:23:16,044 --> 00:23:19,644
of goes back to the earlier conversation about, wow, what is so special about wine?
374
00:23:19,692 --> 00:23:23,266
Here? We're celebrating the homecoming, an old
375
00:23:23,298 --> 00:23:26,738
vintage. And the wine was probably made by women. Yeah. Oh, really? So
376
00:23:26,754 --> 00:23:30,570
that's. Wow. At the end of the first world War, you didn't have many men
377
00:23:30,610 --> 00:23:34,350
left. So the history of au Bailey goes back to where.
378
00:23:35,130 --> 00:23:37,870
The history of Obaili goes back to
379
00:23:38,490 --> 00:23:41,750
probably 800 years. Because we have.
380
00:23:42,050 --> 00:23:45,354
It's very difficult to find written proofs of the existence of
381
00:23:45,402 --> 00:23:48,868
vinesen before 13
382
00:23:49,004 --> 00:23:51,160
something. But we have found
383
00:23:52,260 --> 00:23:56,076
lots of written documents showing us what
384
00:23:56,108 --> 00:23:59,868
was obey from the 13th, 14th century.
385
00:24:00,004 --> 00:24:03,612
Before that, we know the vines were existing, but we don't know
386
00:24:03,636 --> 00:24:07,212
exactly to who it belonged, etcetera. So it's a
387
00:24:07,236 --> 00:24:11,076
parisian banker called Firmin Lebay, who fell
388
00:24:11,108 --> 00:24:14,716
in love with the existing vines and gave his name to the estate in
389
00:24:14,748 --> 00:24:18,348
1630. And since 1630, the estate
390
00:24:18,444 --> 00:24:21,852
stayed the same. Superficies, which is very unique in
391
00:24:21,876 --> 00:24:25,452
Bordeaux. And then you had always
392
00:24:25,556 --> 00:24:29,240
very charismatic owners, strong personalities.
393
00:24:29,980 --> 00:24:33,364
In the 18th century, you even had the mayor of Bordeaux, mister
394
00:24:33,412 --> 00:24:36,660
Laforet de Montbadon. And then came an
395
00:24:36,700 --> 00:24:40,276
incredible man called Alcide bellot de Meniere.
396
00:24:40,388 --> 00:24:44,062
He was the hero of a novel called Heirlo des
397
00:24:44,086 --> 00:24:47,742
Grandieres, and his nickname was the king of Vintners.
398
00:24:47,926 --> 00:24:51,710
And he bought a bay in 1872. He built this house, which
399
00:24:51,750 --> 00:24:55,382
is completely 19th century. And he
400
00:24:55,406 --> 00:24:58,718
plants the vineyard with his own recipe, a fil
401
00:24:58,774 --> 00:25:02,590
blend, having one 6th of Merlot, sorry,
402
00:25:02,630 --> 00:25:06,438
112 of Merlot, one 12th of Cabernet franc, one 12th of
403
00:25:06,454 --> 00:25:10,134
Petit Verdot, same thing of Carbonaire and Malbec, and
404
00:25:10,182 --> 00:25:13,930
712 of Cabernet Sauvignon. And we still have
405
00:25:15,100 --> 00:25:18,756
what he planted, 120. That's amazing. Yes. So the
406
00:25:18,828 --> 00:25:22,140
real field blend, I mean, at that time, he was probably picking at the same
407
00:25:22,180 --> 00:25:25,940
time and crushing altogether and making. It's pretty unusual these
408
00:25:25,980 --> 00:25:29,708
days. Well, no, actually, it was the way Bordeaux was doing the
409
00:25:29,764 --> 00:25:33,276
blend wines at that time, and we all forgot that, but the blend was done
410
00:25:33,308 --> 00:25:36,748
in the field. So it's actually one of the last plots around
411
00:25:36,804 --> 00:25:40,642
Bordeaux, which is still done in that way. And so
412
00:25:40,746 --> 00:25:44,482
you don't. We were talking about it outside. You now try to pick
413
00:25:44,546 --> 00:25:48,270
the varietals at different points of ripeness, so that each
414
00:25:48,690 --> 00:25:52,490
cluster is ripe depending on what grape it is. But
415
00:25:52,570 --> 00:25:56,098
there's something interesting that hit me when you were discussing that. That is,
416
00:25:56,274 --> 00:26:00,058
even though you're picking them at different times, and so it might look like it's
417
00:26:00,074 --> 00:26:03,682
just another plot. There has to be some kind of value to the idea that
418
00:26:03,706 --> 00:26:06,824
these vines are growing with each other, even though they're different
419
00:26:06,872 --> 00:26:10,568
grapes. There's an influence between them that
420
00:26:10,584 --> 00:26:14,176
would change those grapes than if they're on their own. There are
421
00:26:14,248 --> 00:26:18,088
two things, I think. The complexity it brings
422
00:26:18,184 --> 00:26:21,672
by the fact that it's planted together. And there is something
423
00:26:21,776 --> 00:26:25,616
happening which definitely brings complexity. And there is the fact
424
00:26:25,648 --> 00:26:28,976
that they are very old. And what is
425
00:26:29,008 --> 00:26:32,784
fascinating with this very old vineyard is that they are able to
426
00:26:32,832 --> 00:26:36,600
handle everything. They don't have disease. They
427
00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,472
always produce regularly. They don't produce very much, but they
428
00:26:40,496 --> 00:26:44,340
are so consistent. They are always, always
429
00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:49,500
responding. How do you say that? Delivering.
430
00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,736
So it's quite fascinating to see that those old vines have
431
00:26:53,768 --> 00:26:57,104
a strength and a power which is just
432
00:26:57,152 --> 00:27:00,972
incredible. And the wine we get from those vines
433
00:27:01,136 --> 00:27:04,964
is just so full, so complete, so intense,
434
00:27:05,132 --> 00:27:08,780
very deep. So it's the heart of our blend every
435
00:27:08,860 --> 00:27:12,060
single year. So you start with those that
436
00:27:12,100 --> 00:27:15,628
plot. How many hectares is the field blend? Four.
437
00:27:15,764 --> 00:27:19,548
So about ten acres. You start with
438
00:27:19,564 --> 00:27:23,252
that as the basic part of your cuve.
439
00:27:23,436 --> 00:27:27,134
And then you add and subtract from that to create a.
440
00:27:27,172 --> 00:27:31,002
Well, it's so intense and complex that on
441
00:27:31,026 --> 00:27:34,762
its own, it's almost too powerful. So you have to
442
00:27:34,866 --> 00:27:38,434
add, you know, and that the fascinating thing of making a blend,
443
00:27:38,562 --> 00:27:42,354
it's like being a perfumer and create something. And you take
444
00:27:42,402 --> 00:27:46,058
10% of that, which will add a little bit of lightness,
445
00:27:46,194 --> 00:27:50,018
10% of that, which will bring the floral
446
00:27:50,074 --> 00:27:53,590
aspect of the wine. And then you build it all about
447
00:27:53,890 --> 00:27:57,616
to keep the same style. And that is something which
448
00:27:57,648 --> 00:28:01,432
is very dear to obey, is that we
449
00:28:01,496 --> 00:28:04,860
never follow the fashion. We never go in
450
00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:09,000
too many different rows, but
451
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:12,780
we always try to keep our style, because
452
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:17,856
fashion change, but style lasts. Oh,
453
00:28:17,888 --> 00:28:21,224
I like that. Fashion changes, but style lasts. I'm going to write that down. I'm
454
00:28:21,232 --> 00:28:25,032
going to put that down. And that's part of the
455
00:28:25,056 --> 00:28:27,564
conversation. But before we. Before we get there, and I wrote it down so I
456
00:28:27,572 --> 00:28:30,892
don't forget this, the complexity of your wines
457
00:28:30,996 --> 00:28:34,756
is not overshadowed by the fact that the complexity of running
458
00:28:34,788 --> 00:28:38,284
this organization. In other words, we have this wonderful product. It's so romantic. We put
459
00:28:38,292 --> 00:28:41,492
it in the bottle, we share it, and we converse over. We taste the
460
00:28:41,556 --> 00:28:45,380
1918 and we fall in love again. But that takes
461
00:28:45,420 --> 00:28:48,428
a lot of work, and there's a lot of moving parts to doing this. Here
462
00:28:48,444 --> 00:28:51,124
we are in this wonderful chateau. You've got a tasting room. I saw a group
463
00:28:51,172 --> 00:28:54,936
go in. We have our tasting after this, you've got a seller. I mean,
464
00:28:54,968 --> 00:28:58,528
these are a lot of moving parts. How does one
465
00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:02,304
manage that leading to this? You said
466
00:29:02,432 --> 00:29:06,000
there was an intellectual complexity that you learned at
467
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:09,752
school that allowed you to be able to step in and do
468
00:29:09,776 --> 00:29:13,380
this role. What does that mean exactly? Well, I think
469
00:29:14,240 --> 00:29:16,140
to run a place like that,
470
00:29:18,960 --> 00:29:22,798
you need a diverse competence. You need
471
00:29:22,814 --> 00:29:25,250
to be able to understand what's going on in the field
472
00:29:26,310 --> 00:29:30,014
and also understand how the weather works. You need
473
00:29:30,062 --> 00:29:33,450
to know how to vinify wine. You need
474
00:29:35,510 --> 00:29:39,094
to have a certain charisma to lead a team and make
475
00:29:39,142 --> 00:29:42,790
them give the best of themselves every single day.
476
00:29:42,830 --> 00:29:46,398
Because the great strength of obey
477
00:29:46,494 --> 00:29:50,122
is a wonderful team working by passion,
478
00:29:50,206 --> 00:29:54,026
you know, everywhere. And I'm very, very proud of our
479
00:29:54,058 --> 00:29:57,562
team. But you also need to be able to meet people from all over the
480
00:29:57,586 --> 00:30:00,990
world. We are selling our wine in 80 different countries,
481
00:30:01,330 --> 00:30:05,122
so happy to see american friends. But we also
482
00:30:05,186 --> 00:30:08,818
have people coming from Asia, from England,
483
00:30:08,874 --> 00:30:12,698
from all over Europe. And that the fascinating thing is that we are
484
00:30:12,714 --> 00:30:16,230
able to travel and meet great people. So
485
00:30:16,930 --> 00:30:20,306
the way I'm running this company is that I
486
00:30:20,338 --> 00:30:23,580
believe in the. In the collective
487
00:30:26,680 --> 00:30:30,248
competence. And everybody brings things, and we are
488
00:30:30,304 --> 00:30:34,112
permanently analyzing what we are doing, and we
489
00:30:34,136 --> 00:30:37,856
are always doubting, how can we do better, how can
490
00:30:37,888 --> 00:30:40,900
we do, how can we go further, higher,
491
00:30:41,640 --> 00:30:45,456
faster? Because the world is changing, our environment is
492
00:30:45,488 --> 00:30:48,630
changing. And you should note, keep
493
00:30:49,050 --> 00:30:52,730
or stay on set recipes. You have to adapt
494
00:30:52,770 --> 00:30:56,370
permanently. We also believe in the japanese philosophy of
495
00:30:56,410 --> 00:31:00,106
Kaizen, you know, the permanent evolution,
496
00:31:00,298 --> 00:31:03,922
adaptation. And that's extremely important. And that the way you're
497
00:31:03,946 --> 00:31:07,770
making great wines, because if you have in mind what you're going
498
00:31:07,810 --> 00:31:11,522
to. The way you're going to cook next time with certain product, or
499
00:31:11,546 --> 00:31:15,292
the way you're going to harvest, you're wrong. Because
500
00:31:15,356 --> 00:31:18,468
things are changing around you. So you have to have a fresh
501
00:31:18,524 --> 00:31:21,480
mentality, a fresh spirit, and
502
00:31:21,780 --> 00:31:25,572
invent, create every day. That's the humility of it all, isn't that
503
00:31:25,596 --> 00:31:29,356
you have to. Your ideas of the future are already wrong before you start
504
00:31:29,388 --> 00:31:33,068
them, right? Exactly. Yes, but that's, you know, that's. You
505
00:31:33,084 --> 00:31:36,716
said very eloquently and very articulate. You articulated that
506
00:31:36,748 --> 00:31:40,356
concept very well. It's easier said than done. We have people
507
00:31:40,428 --> 00:31:43,440
involved, which is always, you know, always an issue.
508
00:31:44,060 --> 00:31:47,212
You've got the weather, you've got the. All the different pieces that are
509
00:31:47,236 --> 00:31:50,956
moving, and you have to be able to balance those. You went to
510
00:31:50,988 --> 00:31:54,372
Sorbonne, you studied nothing that dealt with
511
00:31:54,396 --> 00:31:57,960
wine. And maybe that's the value of your education
512
00:31:58,500 --> 00:32:01,724
later. I studied wine later. Yeah. So you studied
513
00:32:01,772 --> 00:32:05,540
economics, and so you have a bird's eye view of some of
514
00:32:05,580 --> 00:32:09,414
this that's going on. So this is a part of
515
00:32:09,422 --> 00:32:12,894
the wine business that frustrates me. I wish it was a
516
00:32:12,942 --> 00:32:16,598
product that transcended profit and that we only
517
00:32:16,654 --> 00:32:19,750
got to make the things that we are
518
00:32:19,830 --> 00:32:23,570
expressing exactly what we cannot express. But we are in a business.
519
00:32:24,270 --> 00:32:27,502
You know, the Ottany group out of the Rhone Valley, it's
520
00:32:27,686 --> 00:32:31,366
fine wine think tank. Nicole rollet, I think, is
521
00:32:31,398 --> 00:32:35,142
the president, and I had that conversation with them, and it's
522
00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:38,734
like the consumer has always driven the wine business.
523
00:32:38,862 --> 00:32:42,470
Let's take Madame Clicquot. She made a slightly sweeter
524
00:32:42,510 --> 00:32:45,942
cuvet for the Russians than she did for the English, that kind of thing.
525
00:32:46,126 --> 00:32:49,330
And obviously, very important. But
526
00:32:50,190 --> 00:32:53,894
when you talk about style, doesn't. Style is permanent, and fashion
527
00:32:53,942 --> 00:32:56,730
comes and goes. Are we talking about
528
00:32:57,750 --> 00:33:01,280
the. The makeup of the wine, the, let's say, the sugar
529
00:33:01,320 --> 00:33:05,056
content? Are we talking about how we market the wine when we're
530
00:33:05,088 --> 00:33:08,848
trying to evolve the business? Are we maintaining a
531
00:33:08,864 --> 00:33:12,180
very straight focus on the best wine we can make from the terroir?
532
00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:16,664
And then the innovation comes in getting it to the customer,
533
00:33:16,832 --> 00:33:20,408
or is the innovation in figuring out what the
534
00:33:20,424 --> 00:33:24,216
customer wants? I think you have to respect your
535
00:33:24,248 --> 00:33:27,972
terroir first and to give the chance to the
536
00:33:28,036 --> 00:33:31,652
terroir to express itself, because what is
537
00:33:31,756 --> 00:33:34,948
extremely important, more than anything, is the
538
00:33:35,004 --> 00:33:38,084
identity. If you lose your
539
00:33:38,132 --> 00:33:41,876
identity, you lose your customer. Why
540
00:33:41,908 --> 00:33:45,380
do people drink, obey? It's because they love the style
541
00:33:45,420 --> 00:33:49,164
of elegance. Fine tannins,
542
00:33:49,332 --> 00:33:52,600
very silky tannins, nothing aggressive.
543
00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:56,078
Something which is built to last
544
00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:59,398
forever. So the longevity of the
545
00:33:59,414 --> 00:34:03,206
wine. And if you are not true or
546
00:34:03,238 --> 00:34:06,806
respectful to your own identity, you lose
547
00:34:06,838 --> 00:34:10,326
it. You lose your customers. So it's very important
548
00:34:10,478 --> 00:34:13,770
both to respect your terroir and to keep your style.
549
00:34:14,390 --> 00:34:18,046
Wow, that's complicated. Respectively keep
550
00:34:18,078 --> 00:34:21,705
your style. So that. And I've learned this
551
00:34:21,777 --> 00:34:25,369
more. I've gotten closer to understanding this because of this
552
00:34:25,409 --> 00:34:29,081
trip only. And that is, you've got to
553
00:34:29,145 --> 00:34:32,753
keep that steady eye on what Obaee
554
00:34:32,841 --> 00:34:36,185
is and what it means to the consumer and the
555
00:34:36,217 --> 00:34:40,001
consumer. And this is my true belief in the wine business, comes to
556
00:34:40,025 --> 00:34:43,849
obeyee and learns and then understands it. Not that
557
00:34:43,889 --> 00:34:47,470
we decide to make something we think they're going to like. Yes,
558
00:34:47,510 --> 00:34:50,770
because also, we are making wine for today.
559
00:34:51,430 --> 00:34:55,150
Today, we have to make the best wine we can do today with the
560
00:34:55,190 --> 00:34:58,686
technology of today, the weather of today, with the
561
00:34:58,718 --> 00:35:02,406
terroir we cherish. But most of our wines will
562
00:35:02,438 --> 00:35:06,134
be drunk in 1015 2050
563
00:35:06,262 --> 00:35:09,686
years. So if you are
564
00:35:09,798 --> 00:35:13,396
trying to follow the taste of the consumer of today, you're wrong.
565
00:35:13,508 --> 00:35:17,260
You're completely wrong. You know, Aubai is above
566
00:35:17,340 --> 00:35:20,396
that. The top wines of Bordeaux are
567
00:35:20,508 --> 00:35:24,320
above following the consumer. We have to think
568
00:35:24,700 --> 00:35:28,348
further. And for the long term, I
569
00:35:28,364 --> 00:35:32,100
think. As such a refreshing. And
570
00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:35,916
I'm not going to say that the american wine industry is not doing
571
00:35:35,948 --> 00:35:39,280
that as well. There's certainly vineyards in Napa, Sonoma,
572
00:35:39,820 --> 00:35:43,492
central Coast, that follow that philosophy. It
573
00:35:43,516 --> 00:35:46,996
has to be. But at the same time, the most popular
574
00:35:47,068 --> 00:35:50,868
wines in the industry are these sort of formula wines. They
575
00:35:50,924 --> 00:35:54,140
follow some kind of structure of a
576
00:35:54,180 --> 00:35:57,380
palatable character, a consumer driven
577
00:35:57,460 --> 00:36:00,800
palette, and it's fine. I think we need those
578
00:36:01,700 --> 00:36:04,960
to bring people to wine that otherwise weren't drinking wine.
579
00:36:05,580 --> 00:36:09,292
But it ebbs and flows, because by. Experience,
580
00:36:09,436 --> 00:36:12,560
I know when a wine is great, it makes unanimity.
581
00:36:14,380 --> 00:36:17,040
I can tell you when you have a great wine,
582
00:36:17,900 --> 00:36:21,572
usually there is a silence around the
583
00:36:21,596 --> 00:36:25,356
table, because there is emotion. And this emotion is
584
00:36:25,388 --> 00:36:29,020
created by the fact you just did the best you can do.
585
00:36:29,180 --> 00:36:32,420
You have a great wow. You respect it. And then you deliver an amazing
586
00:36:32,460 --> 00:36:36,194
wine and it always makes unanimity. That's so
587
00:36:36,242 --> 00:36:38,990
fun. Is that. But do you think
588
00:36:39,690 --> 00:36:43,162
that part of the aristocracy of wine and
589
00:36:43,306 --> 00:36:46,642
the people, that. And it's a very important part of the
590
00:36:46,666 --> 00:36:49,666
consumerism is everybody looks at wine, particularly
591
00:36:49,818 --> 00:36:53,442
utwine, that, oh, you guys are snobs. You talk about, you
592
00:36:53,466 --> 00:36:57,122
say words that you don't. We don't understand. And I don't understand when you say
593
00:36:57,266 --> 00:37:00,870
cedar box and leather. Sometimes I think we
594
00:37:00,950 --> 00:37:04,726
propagate our own aristocracy around the wine
595
00:37:04,758 --> 00:37:07,850
industry. But on the flip side,
596
00:37:09,070 --> 00:37:12,806
that's what it's about. It's the understanding of this
597
00:37:12,838 --> 00:37:16,590
complexity and saying, wow, I may not be able to define it yet,
598
00:37:16,630 --> 00:37:20,382
but, man, I sure taste it. Yeah. I think
599
00:37:20,406 --> 00:37:23,610
what is the most important thing is, do I love it or not?
600
00:37:23,950 --> 00:37:27,316
Does it speak to me or nothing? When I'm tasting in
601
00:37:27,348 --> 00:37:30,920
1918, or at the beginning of my career, I had
602
00:37:31,300 --> 00:37:34,932
in Miami, an american collector served me in a
603
00:37:34,956 --> 00:37:38,796
blind tasting, obey 64 from Magnum.
604
00:37:38,988 --> 00:37:42,460
I didn't know what it was, but I put my nose in the glass and
605
00:37:42,500 --> 00:37:45,828
I knew I was at home. And
606
00:37:45,924 --> 00:37:49,652
then I had the feeling my great grandfather was talking to me,
607
00:37:49,676 --> 00:37:53,516
although he was already not anymore on this planet. That's really
608
00:37:53,548 --> 00:37:56,828
cool. And then I had the feeling I was transported into space.
609
00:37:56,964 --> 00:38:00,732
So it's about an emotion, and
610
00:38:00,756 --> 00:38:04,532
a great wine provides an emotion. It can just make
611
00:38:04,556 --> 00:38:08,212
you think of something you had this year. It can just provide
612
00:38:08,356 --> 00:38:12,040
a moment where you feel, wow, this is a unique moment.
613
00:38:12,540 --> 00:38:16,220
So happy to be here. My family, my friends,
614
00:38:16,380 --> 00:38:19,640
and this wine is bringing something
615
00:38:20,100 --> 00:38:23,334
more, you know, to the conversation, to the spirits of
616
00:38:23,372 --> 00:38:26,954
experiential. We were in Paris about, I think it
617
00:38:26,962 --> 00:38:30,150
was about ten years ago, and just a regular
618
00:38:30,610 --> 00:38:34,458
tourist cafe. I ordered the quiche and they put
619
00:38:34,474 --> 00:38:37,306
it in front of me, and my wife looked at me, she goes, what's wrong
620
00:38:37,338 --> 00:38:41,122
with you? I said, nothing. I said, this took me back 40 years, because my
621
00:38:41,146 --> 00:38:44,498
mother was a very good cook and she made the same Tyle quiche. And I
622
00:38:44,514 --> 00:38:48,162
just took one smell and I go, I haven't smelled this for. Since my
623
00:38:48,186 --> 00:38:51,972
childhood. And wine does that all the time, if you have a proper glass
624
00:38:51,996 --> 00:38:55,612
of wine. And we should educate young people
625
00:38:55,796 --> 00:38:59,492
to drink together, to share, to remember that when they open the
626
00:38:59,516 --> 00:39:03,316
bottle and you're not there anymore, they will think of you, because
627
00:39:03,428 --> 00:39:06,916
that the way, if you keep talking about people and
628
00:39:06,988 --> 00:39:10,108
having something in common through the
629
00:39:10,124 --> 00:39:13,740
wine, that keeps a
630
00:39:13,900 --> 00:39:17,506
memory alive. You know, I taught my son in laws about
631
00:39:17,658 --> 00:39:20,910
champagne in Obaee, and now it's costing me too much money.
632
00:39:22,450 --> 00:39:25,986
But the conversation, too, that's going on the Internet about the language of
633
00:39:26,018 --> 00:39:29,818
wine and innovation. And wine, and
634
00:39:29,834 --> 00:39:33,370
I don't mean innovation in how we manufacture, because
635
00:39:33,490 --> 00:39:36,922
everything you do here is to produce the best product you can from what you're
636
00:39:36,946 --> 00:39:40,714
given. I think the innovation they're talking about is either
637
00:39:40,762 --> 00:39:44,430
marketing or consumerism. And then the language.
638
00:39:44,470 --> 00:39:47,758
And interesting conversation with Monsieur Clouet from Cheval
639
00:39:47,774 --> 00:39:51,102
Blanc, and that was. Yeah, you know, your
640
00:39:51,166 --> 00:39:54,622
father and my father described wines differently than we do
641
00:39:54,646 --> 00:39:58,446
today. And Michael Broadbent described wines
642
00:39:58,478 --> 00:40:01,934
in his generation different than we do today. And maybe Harry Waugh. And then you
643
00:40:01,942 --> 00:40:05,770
just keep going backwards to know that
644
00:40:06,270 --> 00:40:09,886
maybe that's what they mean. Because I still have yet to understand what changing the
645
00:40:09,918 --> 00:40:13,420
language of wine means, because if we change it to something else, then
646
00:40:14,160 --> 00:40:17,860
somebody else isn't going to understand it either. So I'm not sure. Have you
647
00:40:18,440 --> 00:40:22,080
followed this or heard people talking about changing the language of wine? Yes,
648
00:40:22,120 --> 00:40:25,568
but before that, the taste of wine changed.
649
00:40:25,704 --> 00:40:29,376
Well, that's true, too. The wines my great
650
00:40:29,408 --> 00:40:33,060
grandfather did is not the wine we are doing today.
651
00:40:33,680 --> 00:40:37,496
There is always the identity of the estate, which is
652
00:40:37,528 --> 00:40:41,064
there, but we are working in a very different way.
653
00:40:41,232 --> 00:40:43,824
And I remember when my grandfather tasted
654
00:40:43,872 --> 00:40:47,440
2005, he told me, God, this is
655
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:51,056
probably the best wine we ever made. And I said, come on, you
656
00:40:51,088 --> 00:40:54,856
did beautiful vintages, like 61, 64 and so many
657
00:40:54,888 --> 00:40:58,656
others, 89, 90. And he said, yes, but nature gave
658
00:40:58,688 --> 00:41:01,960
it to us all. And today you have
659
00:41:02,000 --> 00:41:05,736
nature, but you have the way you're working with so
660
00:41:05,768 --> 00:41:08,836
much care, precision, technology that
661
00:41:09,008 --> 00:41:12,708
able, that helped you do wines which are
662
00:41:12,764 --> 00:41:16,404
just spectacular. And it is true that in Bordeaux,
663
00:41:16,492 --> 00:41:20,228
we did a series of more than 20 vintages which are just
664
00:41:20,284 --> 00:41:23,612
exceptional. So the taste of wine is also
665
00:41:23,676 --> 00:41:27,452
changing. And all
666
00:41:27,476 --> 00:41:30,700
of our jobs changed
667
00:41:30,740 --> 00:41:34,476
incredibly in the last 20 years. We just welcomed a few
668
00:41:34,508 --> 00:41:38,312
months ago, our first robot in the vines. And the new
669
00:41:38,336 --> 00:41:41,780
seller we have is a concentrate of innovation
670
00:41:42,240 --> 00:41:45,736
at the service of tradition. And you're right in
671
00:41:45,768 --> 00:41:49,560
distribution, marketing, everything. We have so
672
00:41:49,600 --> 00:41:53,392
many more ways of talking to people who love
673
00:41:53,416 --> 00:41:56,920
wine and who love our wine. It's fascinating, but it's
674
00:41:57,000 --> 00:42:00,648
at every step that things are changing, and changing
675
00:42:00,744 --> 00:42:03,740
in a very fast way. Very fast.
676
00:42:05,200 --> 00:42:08,140
Like I told you, my business relied on the Internet
677
00:42:08,760 --> 00:42:11,776
to sell wine, which we did for. My first website was
678
00:42:11,808 --> 00:42:15,608
1997. I sent 33
679
00:42:15,664 --> 00:42:19,312
million emails in 2022. So just to
680
00:42:19,336 --> 00:42:22,888
sell, and my wines were $15 to $18. They weren't expensive
681
00:42:22,944 --> 00:42:26,504
wine. And so I'm trying to figure out, when they talk about innovation,
682
00:42:26,632 --> 00:42:30,414
you're innovating on the processing side and the experiential side is we
683
00:42:30,422 --> 00:42:34,142
were almost out of time. It's unbelievable. But I'm not sure what
684
00:42:34,166 --> 00:42:37,998
they mean by innovation in that. I guess they're like, for
685
00:42:38,014 --> 00:42:41,846
instance, I don't think putting your camera on a bottle of 19 crimes
686
00:42:41,878 --> 00:42:45,406
and getting a moving character is
687
00:42:45,438 --> 00:42:49,230
innovation in the wine business. That's just sizzle marketing stuff. I mean,
688
00:42:49,270 --> 00:42:52,542
who cares about that? But the idea of
689
00:42:52,566 --> 00:42:55,902
innovation, maybe they mean what you're doing in
690
00:42:55,926 --> 00:42:59,754
the. So I'm not getting anywhere with this part of
691
00:42:59,762 --> 00:43:02,430
the conversation because I'm not sure what they mean by this,
692
00:43:03,730 --> 00:43:07,378
because I think wine is such a romantic and experiential
693
00:43:07,434 --> 00:43:10,270
product, and maybe I'll just move into that
694
00:43:11,050 --> 00:43:14,830
because of my experience on the Internet and because the Internet has created
695
00:43:15,570 --> 00:43:18,898
bargain shoppers. Now, let's say, I know I want Obaee
696
00:43:18,954 --> 00:43:22,744
2005 because of this conversation. I
697
00:43:22,752 --> 00:43:25,576
can go to the Internet and buy it, right? But that's not the experience of
698
00:43:25,608 --> 00:43:28,820
the Obaee, that's because of the price.
699
00:43:29,400 --> 00:43:33,140
But if I really. I really think the wine business is going back to
700
00:43:33,560 --> 00:43:37,232
those days. My father was the president of a Les Amis devant
701
00:43:37,296 --> 00:43:40,704
chapter in California, and they had dinners.
702
00:43:40,872 --> 00:43:44,696
They exposed the people to wine in its infancy in California
703
00:43:44,728 --> 00:43:48,432
in the seventies, when we just started, so to speak. And I really believe, from
704
00:43:48,456 --> 00:43:52,080
a marketing standpoint, what you do, which is traveling the world,
705
00:43:52,940 --> 00:43:56,708
going to the different expos? Pouring the glasses, I mean, shocking. You
706
00:43:56,724 --> 00:44:00,204
were in LA, pouring your own wines is really going
707
00:44:00,252 --> 00:44:03,716
backwards to the days of. I had this experience
708
00:44:03,868 --> 00:44:07,332
with Veronique. That's important part
709
00:44:07,356 --> 00:44:11,200
of my appreciation for the brand.
710
00:44:11,620 --> 00:44:14,996
Do you sense that? I love that,
711
00:44:15,068 --> 00:44:18,910
actually, I love to be close to people
712
00:44:19,490 --> 00:44:23,002
who will buy and drink our
713
00:44:23,026 --> 00:44:26,834
wine, because it's fabulous to be here
714
00:44:26,882 --> 00:44:30,730
at Obaya alone in your vineyard, or trying to best
715
00:44:30,770 --> 00:44:34,202
the best wine ever for the generation to
716
00:44:34,226 --> 00:44:37,970
come. But when you have the opportunity to meet the people who love
717
00:44:38,010 --> 00:44:41,370
what you're doing, to exchange about it, to
718
00:44:41,410 --> 00:44:45,072
share the passion, I think
719
00:44:45,096 --> 00:44:48,300
it's great. I love it. It's a reward.
720
00:44:49,000 --> 00:44:52,400
That's a great way to look at it. I think it's critical
721
00:44:52,440 --> 00:44:56,224
now the wine industry is in a bad place, generally, worldwide. I'm very
722
00:44:56,272 --> 00:44:59,800
happy you had a wonderful elm premier because people came
723
00:44:59,840 --> 00:45:03,264
and you experienced it. There are other wineries in this region that didn't have such
724
00:45:03,312 --> 00:45:06,896
success during the Elm premier. But in general, wine consumption is
725
00:45:06,928 --> 00:45:10,776
down. The millennials don't do it as much. The Gen Zs, nobody
726
00:45:10,808 --> 00:45:14,226
knows what they're doing, their drink. What I don't understand about those
727
00:45:14,258 --> 00:45:18,018
people is they talk about organic and biodynamic and they want fresh food and
728
00:45:18,034 --> 00:45:20,594
they go to whole foods and they go to these markets, but then they drink
729
00:45:20,642 --> 00:45:24,290
stuff like white claw, which is full of artificial ingredients and bubbly.
730
00:45:24,370 --> 00:45:26,190
You know, merd.
731
00:45:28,130 --> 00:45:31,746
The way we make wine in France is that you have a
732
00:45:31,778 --> 00:45:35,150
rule, and rule number one is that everything is forbidden.
733
00:45:36,290 --> 00:45:39,992
You can't irrigate, you can't protect your vines, you can't
734
00:45:40,056 --> 00:45:43,672
add anything in your wine. So that's a very important.
735
00:45:43,776 --> 00:45:47,264
Is that Bon de France? I mean, all the France, all over. France, we respect
736
00:45:47,352 --> 00:45:50,920
the character of the appellation de. So
737
00:45:51,040 --> 00:45:54,264
if you are not respecting it, you are declassified.
738
00:45:54,432 --> 00:45:58,096
So that's something to keep in mind. When
739
00:45:58,128 --> 00:46:01,800
you make wine tastings with wine from
740
00:46:01,840 --> 00:46:05,544
other wine regions in the world, it's a very different way
741
00:46:05,592 --> 00:46:09,306
of cultivating and producing. It's interesting that you said
742
00:46:09,338 --> 00:46:13,150
that, because this group we're with today,
743
00:46:13,490 --> 00:46:16,978
obviously, we live in California. There's very popular
744
00:46:17,034 --> 00:46:20,682
brands, and many entry level consumers
745
00:46:20,826 --> 00:46:23,590
will buy those brands because of their popularity. And
746
00:46:24,530 --> 00:46:27,786
there may be a sense of aristocracy if you have one of these
747
00:46:27,818 --> 00:46:31,510
brands. But now they're tasting structured, complex,
748
00:46:32,130 --> 00:46:35,670
terroir driven wines. Ever since we started on the right
749
00:46:35,710 --> 00:46:39,302
bank, and the comment was made last night at dinner at
750
00:46:39,326 --> 00:46:43,170
Lipop, which was, I'm starting to understand
751
00:46:43,950 --> 00:46:47,650
this idea of acid fruit, and
752
00:46:47,950 --> 00:46:51,542
sensing the terroir. And we had a wine
753
00:46:51,566 --> 00:46:55,078
yesterday at the La Lum de Pomeran, and the gentleman said,
754
00:46:55,174 --> 00:46:58,010
there's iron ore in the ground
755
00:46:58,390 --> 00:47:02,206
that's creating this character. And all of a sudden you go, bing. I get
756
00:47:02,238 --> 00:47:05,416
it now. You know, that flavor makes sense, what I'm
757
00:47:05,448 --> 00:47:09,184
tasting. So it's fascinating. But we're. Can you believe we're
758
00:47:09,192 --> 00:47:12,952
at 48 minutes already? I hope we can do
759
00:47:12,976 --> 00:47:16,656
this again. We haven't even touched on. Look, I got three pages more notes to
760
00:47:16,688 --> 00:47:20,320
go over, but it's been a fascinating time
761
00:47:20,360 --> 00:47:23,584
to sit with you and have this
762
00:47:23,752 --> 00:47:27,576
understanding of Obaee and your career and the
763
00:47:27,608 --> 00:47:31,244
things that it takes to be, I'm not going to say successful.
764
00:47:31,292 --> 00:47:34,892
To be recognized in this industry. It's not easy to
765
00:47:34,916 --> 00:47:38,500
do. Well. Thank you, Paul. I enjoyed speaking with you and
766
00:47:38,620 --> 00:47:42,364
always a pleasure to be. Cheers. Are you coming to LA soon? I know you
767
00:47:42,372 --> 00:47:46,148
got a lot of travel ahead of you, but yes, pretty. For sure in the
768
00:47:46,164 --> 00:47:49,524
coming months. I always loved LA with MMD or.
769
00:47:49,652 --> 00:47:53,196
MMD or just to show Bailee for a few
770
00:47:53,228 --> 00:47:56,660
tastings. I hope you stay in touch and we can regroup.
771
00:47:56,820 --> 00:47:59,520
With great pleasure. Cheers. Cheers.
772
00:48:08,180 --> 00:48:11,540
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul, Callum, Cary. And don't forget to
773
00:48:11,580 --> 00:48:14,740
subscribe because there's more great interviews on their way.
774
00:48:14,900 --> 00:48:18,220
Folks, have a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.