July 2, 2024
"The Audacity To HIre A Woman" Says Veronique Sanders of Cht. Haut Bailly.

A Toast to Tradition and Innovation Paul K: Welcome to another episode of "Wine Talks"! Today, we’re popping the cork on a conversation that's rich in history and flavor with the illustrious Veronique Sanders, director and president...
A Toast to Tradition and Innovation
Paul K: Welcome to another episode of "Wine Talks"! Today, we’re popping the cork on a conversation that's rich in history and flavor with the illustrious Veronique Sanders, director and president of Chateau Haut Bailly in the Pessac Leognon district.
Veronique: Thank you, Paul! I'm excited to share our journey and passion with your listeners.
Paul K kicks things off by reminiscing about the days of his father's involvement in the wine business. He talks about the indispensable role of marketing and personal interaction, essentials that have defined the industry for decades. Paul K: The wine industry has seen so many changes, especially with the rise and fall of wine consumption among younger generations. Marketing and genuine connections have always been key, but it's challenging when people opt for drinks filled with artificial ingredients. Veronique shares a delightful story about serving wine at an elaborate dinner at Versailles, painting a picture of elegance and heritage. Veronique: It was truly an honor to serve our wine at Versailles. Our wine, like the castle, has a storied past. We pour our hearts into every bottle, and it’s rewarding to share that passion. Paul K shifts the subject to the changing palate of today’s wine drinkers. They both explore the current preference for structured, complex, and terroir-driven wines. Veronique: Great wines should evoke a unanimous emotional response. It's less about tasting notes and more about the personal connection, the experience. Paul K agrees, emphasizing the emotional ties and memories that a truly great wine can inspire. They mention Bordeaux’s classifications, with a special nod to the distinctiveness of the Saint Emilion classification. In a moment that brings together the past and the future, Veronique recounts the legacy and mission of Chateau aux Bailly while highlighting her son's involvement in the family tradition. Veronique: Winemaking is not just a profession; it’s a mission driven by passion. It’s about serving the terroir and passing it down to the next generation. My son is already deeply involved, and it’s heartwarming to see his enthusiasm. They touch on the importance of respecting the character of the appellation de with strict French rules, contrasting it with the more varied production methods observed elsewhere. Paul K: It’s interesting to see the balance between maintaining tradition and adapting to market demands, especially with the Internet reshaping how we buy and sell wine. Veronique chimes in, noting the advancement of technology and its impact, yet emphasizing that the heart of winemaking—nature—remains untamed and unpredictable. Veronique: Nature decides the outcome. It’s a humbling process, but it’s also what makes winemaking so beautiful. The episode rounds off with a discussion on the increasing presence of women in the wine industry, highlighting how women like Veronique are making significant strides. As they bid farewell, Paul K invites Veronique to visit LA, leaving listeners with a hearty invitation to subscribe to "Wine Talks with Paul Kalemkiarian"
Paul K: Remember, join us next time for more stories from the world of wine. Cheers! Veronique: À bientôt! And with that, another vibrant chapter in the book of wine is shared, adorned with passion, history, and an ever-evolving future.
Transcript
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Leno Fallon now
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it's wine talks with Paul K.
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Hey, welcome to wine talks with Paul K. And we are at away game in
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the grave district, the Pesach Leonon no see. Is it also
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pesachelnion or is it the grave Pesachelon? Engrave the grave
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region and the appellation of pesachelion. So the sub region.
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Hey, I want you guys to have a listen to a podcast I did
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with Paul Warston. Just came out a few weeks ago, and that is because
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he is the winemaker of an eight acre
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vineyard in Bel Air, California, if not known as
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Beverly Hills. The question is, who makes wine in Beverly
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Hills? Well, Paul does. It's a great conversation as well. There's another episode
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just came out with Julie Hernandez. Julie walked into my office
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about 20 years ago. I told myself, this young woman will never make it
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in this industry. It's too hard. And she became a local executive, one of the
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largest distributors in California, and she just retired. And it
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wasn't for her. I think wine of the month club would have been in dire
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straits to find wine and to make deals in this industry. So listen to
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that, but not why we're here. We're here to see and have a conversation with
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veteran Lisanders Van Beck and she's the director
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president of a Chateau aux Bailly here in the grave in the Pesach
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L'Oignon district. But welcome to the show. Thank you. Thank you, Paul.
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It's so fun because we met at the tasting
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at that crazy museum. What was that thing? That Uncle
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Ben's museum or something? Brain brainwashing.
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Brainwash, that's right. You have a better memory. And that was
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with Maison Marc domain group.
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And I want to talk about that too. A little bit, but more interesting. I
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just read this morning that you poured wine at a very
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important dinner at Versailles. And tell
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me President Macron was there. I mean, this is pretty serious
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stuff. Yes, this is a beautiful event which is
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called choose France. And Mister
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Macron invited top leaders around the world who
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might invest in France or investing in France.
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So it was a dinner for, I think, 300 top
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businessmen from all around
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the world. And they choose obey. So choose, friends choose
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obey. That's right. Choose France. Choose. That's our new
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slogan, right? Exactly. Cause that's a
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pretty impressive accolade that the president of the country would choose
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to for that. Did obeyee always have that
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distinction in the world of wine? Or is that a more current
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distinction? Or is it something that you earn and takes a long
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time? I think Obaii has a very long history
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and a beautiful history. It always belonged to very strong
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personalities. And if you are looking at the
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great golden age of obey, between
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1872 and 1940, Aubai was selling at the same
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price as the first gross Lafitte Latour, Margot Aubrion.
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And at that time it was already very much looked
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after, regarded, considered.
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More recently, I know that Dominique de Villepin chose
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aubailly for meeting in New York
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with La Nue
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as a beautiful image of a french
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terroir which belonged to an american. So it was
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a symbolic wine chosen for
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this event to show also the friendship between our two
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countries. And you gave us the Statue of Liberty. I mean,
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that's a very important thing. No, that's an interesting thought though, you just
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said, because I'm here with a large group of friends and
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cousins and family and clients as well. And they're learning about
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the classification of 1855. They're learning about the classification of
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1955. And here you're saying, which I thought when Napoleon
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III, the great nephew, right, of the great general,
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decided to do the classification, it was really for
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elevating the popularity of Bordeaux to the world's
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eye. Right at the fair in Paris.
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And you were selling at the same price. And I always thought that the original
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classification was kind of based on the price.
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Actually, the classification of the medoc was done in
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1855, but don't forget that in Bordeaux, you
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don't only have one classification, but you have several classifications.
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You have the one of the medoc and Sauternes made in 1855,
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which was supposed to last just the time of the world exhibition,
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based on price, but you also have the one of Saint Emilion,
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which is more recent, and the one of the classified growth of
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grave, which was done one century
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after. And we belong to that. That one. And
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Pomerol doesn't have any classification, although Petrus might be
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the most famous wine around the world. So that's an interesting
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concept, though, because nowhere else in the world, except for maybe Italy, the
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DOCG and Doc. And that's just not really a ranking, that's just the
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classification of the appellation. Does this exist?
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And we had a conversation yesterday with Cheval
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Blanc Angelus, and talking about how
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I always have a hard time with
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their chardonnay, that they've opted
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out of the classification in Saint Emilion because
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it included hospitality service,
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hotel options. And they said, we're not going to
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play that game. Parking was part of this conversation.
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Do you think, just personally, that it should be a dynamic.
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Well, the case of Saint Emilion is special because it's a
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classification which is reopened every ten years. So if the
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rules of the game change, I can understand that some of them
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disagree or want to do differently. In
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our case, in the grave, it's very stable and it never
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reopened. So we are 14 classified growth with
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Aubrion being on leadership or leader or
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flagship. I mean, and all the
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classified growths are based in Pesach, like Aubreyon and Lamis
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Aubrion, and in Lyonon, where we are located with Aubai.
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So that's interesting. It leads to this
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conversation about culture of wine.
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This group I'm with, we're learning that the french culture
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is wine. In fact, one of your representatives at Lepte
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said, you're almost not french if you don't like wine, which is
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a cute saying. That's what she meant. And I thought, that's
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very different than what the american view
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of wine is. The american view is you go to Napa Valley, you
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go up and down the highway,
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you make a lot of money in your career, and you buy a winery and
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you get to live this lifestyle. And it's the next step of
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a lifestyle instead of in Europe and in France. And particularly, it
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is the lifestyle. You're here every day,
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you live it, you breathe it. And it takes this passion to do that. And
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you started with your father. I started with my grandfather. Your
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grandfather? Yes. I think it's more than a
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lifestyle. It's a mission. And it's something
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you do by passion. And with passion,
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you can never stop working. You can work seven days a week
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and 365 days a year because
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you always have an eye on what's going
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on in the field, what the weather going to be, what are
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the challenges you're going to have to deal with. So it's
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a never ending process. It is also a
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lifestyle, a beautiful lifestyle. And at Le Pape, you had a little bit
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of this french art de vivre that we are
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having lunch and dinners every day here with
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beautiful food, fresh ingredients from the market,
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matching all the wines we are going to serve at the table.
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So it is true that we are very privileged,
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but we are also fully dedicated to our
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vineyards because we do wine, not just for
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today, but we do wine for the next generation, for people who
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are going to drink it in many, many years and enjoy the fruit of
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our work. It doesn't feel like work, does it?
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I think if you love your work and if you do it by passion, you
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never have the feeling you're working. It's a unique product, though,
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and I've had a hard time defining this or getting a definition. Maybe there
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isn't one because there is no other. And it hit me this
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morning, there's no other product in the world that requires a. Is so
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slow. You only get one chance a year to do it and to test
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what your philosophy is going to be about that vintage. And
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there's no product that brings people together like this product.
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Here we are traveling the world with my group, and
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it's focused on visiting places like Obaee and
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learning more about that culture. And I can't think of another
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product that feels like that. A stilo. A pen
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doesn't do that. Paper doesn't do that. A semiconductor doesn't do that. My
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iPhone, I don't gather over my iPhone, but we gather over
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wine. And I don't know if it's because it's a conduit to the
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soul or the soil or what. I think, first of
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all, wine is part of civilization.
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Everywhere you have a civilization, you will have
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wine. It's also. You're
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mentioning a stilo. It can be yogurt. It's very different
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from any industrial product, because
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even if we want to make the best wine as possible every year,
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at the end of the year, we will do only what is possible to
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do, because we are dependent from the weather. So
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nature will decide or God will decide of what
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we are able to do or not. So we just have to
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adapt permanently. And this adaptation
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makes our job fascinating, because every year is a new
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story. Every year we write a
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new history on the white page. And we learn from scratch every
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year. Our job changed
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incredibly in the last 25 years. And
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you're right. I mean, in the end, you are sharing
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this product with people who love food, who
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love art, who have many passions.
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And when you have a great wine on a table, the discussions
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are always remarkable. It's pretty amazing. And I
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thank my father for that. Exposed me to it
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young. We had a wine shop. I stocked the
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shelves. I was learning then and
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coming on a trip like this and learning more. After 35 years
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of selling wine, I still learned every time I sit down with people like you
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to understand more about what we're doing. It sounds like to me
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there's a certain humility to what you just said, because you don't get to
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decide what's going to happen because of the weather. And God gets to tell
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you what we're going to produce and you get to do the best you can
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with it. And that sort of is humbling experience, right?
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Unlike the wines we find at the supermarkets
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that are on a formula, we're going to add so much sugar, so much acid,
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we're going to make it taste like it did last year. I understand those are
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important vintages to have for people to get used to wine. But
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in this case, and in most cases, there's a certain humility
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required to do this. I love this word of
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humility, because you know where it comes from. Humility
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comes from humus in Latin, and it
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means earth. Oh, I did not know that. Wow. So. And
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all of our work is to look at our vineyards,
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look at the 90% of our work is
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outside in the field. And to make a great wine,
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you do it outside. Then you may have a beautiful cellar with
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lots of technology at the service of your terroir.
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But we all are focused on our
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ground, on our soil and our subsoil, on the
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plant which is on it. And the many, many number of
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hours of work for each plant.
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Our soil or vineyard is low, so it keeps us
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humble. And humility is really a key word for sure. It's almost like
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a privilege. It's almost a privilege to be able to
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experience that and to manage that and to become part of
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that culture. It is a privilege and
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it's a mission, because my job would be to
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transmit it to the next generation. We are at the service
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of our vineyard for a few years, few decades.
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We inherit something from the past. We have
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to take care of this
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patrimoine of all vines, and we
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plant the oldest vines into new vines
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in order that the next generation can also benefit from
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something which has been regenerated. And
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yes, it is a privilege, it's a duty, and it's
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an honor to serve a terroir like obey. Is there another
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generation? So after.
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There's always another generation. My son is
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15 years old and the Wilmers family owning it
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right now. There is the second
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generation at the head of it right now. Congratulations. That's great. I didn't have a
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generation. I have three daughters. They're beautiful daughters. And I told you about one of
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them. But the wine trade in
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California, on the Internet, we're retailers, wholesalers,
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you know, it's gotten so difficult, you know,
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managing the Internet sales, you know, 50
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regulations of 50 states. I wasn't fortunate
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enough to be able to hand it off, so I was. We got two generations
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under our belt and then it moved on to another group. But I was
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honored to be part of it and to participate in it.
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And you're right, you can't. It never leaves you
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like I'm here today because I love talking about it and hearing the
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philosophy about it. Even though I don't sell it every day anymore.
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I just love learning more and more as I can. So you just
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got done with on premiere. I think for the listeners we should. They've probably
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seen it around on the Internet, they probably saw it on LinkedIn, they probably saw
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it on Facebook or Instagram. That this idea of en premier,
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which, if you would give an explanation from the winery side of
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things, what happens during on premiere. So what
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happens is that we just showed last
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month, the last baby, the 23 vintage to
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the whole world. Everybody came and tasted and
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made its own opinion. And I think the quality
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is beautiful about this vintage. And people were.
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It gave a smile to everyone and everybody went back home
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thinking, wow, this is another great vintage of Bordeaux. How many people
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came through Obais? A few thousand. Really? Yes. In few
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days we welcome more than almost 3000 people. So that's a
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lot of people. But it's very
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energetic. You know, you get this energy and the fact that Bordeaux
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interests so many people around the world is just fascinating. And
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it was great to be able to show the level of quality of his
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vintage. And since few weeks we have the releases going on. So
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every day, a few chateau release their prize, and the consumer is
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able to buy our wines in advance
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in order to benefit from a good deal.
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Actually, the wine will be cheaper than what it will
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be when they find it in a few years on the shelves.
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And they can also choose the format they want to buy.
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So imagine you have a new baby or a
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grandchild, or if you get married and you want to get
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your wine in. Magnums, double magnums, double. Nine
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pound, 10oz. Exactly. So you can select your format.
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And that's something you should always do
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to celebrate later on.
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Sitting here is an honor for me.
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There's few women in this industry.
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I was talking to you earlier in the vineyard, about in America,
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the movement for women in wine is
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a real movement. It's got a lot of traction. They're saying that now
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25% of the graduates of enology school are
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women, but in the executive ranks, we're at seven or
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8%. And there's a strong sense of
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changing that, moving the needle for that, I was very
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honored. I had an intern
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here in my office, and her job was to write the notes for all
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the podcasts I was doing with young women. Winemakers
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inspired her to go to school. So she's at Cornell University, getting her
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eenology degree today, and I feel good about that. I'm
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happy we're able to enlighten a young person to the
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value of a glass of wine. But in France,
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is it a structured movement? Because your
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position in this company is pretty rare.
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I mean, we can find the right ones. We'll talk about a couple of the
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historical women in this business. But is it rare right now for somebody in
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your position as a female? I think it's a natural movement, and
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it's more and more women joining the industry
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in every field can be in the vineyard, can be in the cellar, it can
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be selling wine, or even managing an
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estate. So when I had this
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opportunity more than 25 years ago, it was thanks
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to the Odas of an American, Bob Willmers,
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who bought the estate to my family, and who trusted
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a young girl. But that was very new and
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very audacious at that time. And I always considered that
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to be a woman was an advantage. You are seated next to
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the most interesting guys, and then you listen
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and you learn. And today you have more
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and more women everywhere. I believe also in
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complementarity. And at Aubai,
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what is very interesting is that in the field,
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we have 50% of men, 50% of women in the
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cellar, the same, in the offices, the same. Although
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I'm against parity. I think you have jobs where men are better,
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jobs where women are better. But just by luck or
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by the belief of complementarity, we are 50 50
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everywhere in the company. Well, it's by skill set, by
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the fact that you can do the job. We don't care. We're just going to
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hire the best people for the job. You know, the woman I mentioned earlier when
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we started the show, it was a true story. She came in to sell me
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wine. I thought, this young lady's never going to make it. And she was very
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tough, still a very pleasant young lady. And we have a great
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relationship post our careers because of this work she
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did. But I thought, man, this is a dog eat dog world. And she
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tells the story about how difficult the latter
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rungs were for her career to path where she went. I mean,
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she really, really worked hard. And I truly believe the success of my
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company was partially on her back because she
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produced for me when I needed her to do. But you wrote in a previous
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interview he had the audacity to hire a girl.
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So we have to give him credit for having audacity. Right? At the same time,
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that's very american. Yes, that's true. But there are
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women throughout history. I mean, Madame Clicquot was, she was
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one sharp young woman who created a market for herself
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in the russian world of champagne in England and
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cutting edge ideas. Maileon Lanka
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song who we talked about, who was at Pichon Longueville. I mean, unbelievable
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fortitude. Do you think it takes more fortitude for a woman to
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accelerate in this industry than it does maybe in France or in England? I mean,
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compared to the United States? I think it's a
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natural movement, you know, and things are
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happening because it should happen. But
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no, I think in the history of obey,
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you had amazing women in the 18th century, and not just
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for a few years, but for 30 years. One woman was running au Bailey
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in a very sharp, really? At Obaili. Yes. And you also had
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women taking care of the vineyard during the war,
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if you're thinking of the war vintages. And
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yesterday, a great american friend
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from San Francisco brought back to obey
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a 1918 bottle that we shared
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during lunch. And that was so moving because last year of
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the first world War and the wine, 106 years old,
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Washington picking it, was alive. It was, it was
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just a bubble of incredible aromas.
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And the wine was telling a story, you know, and the bottle, which has been
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traveling the world during maybe a century, was just coming back here.
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That was quite an adventure. Also, at the beginning of the week. This
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week. That is really fun. Yeah, well, you think about that. That kind
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of goes back to the earlier conversation about, wow, what is so special about wine?
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Here? We're celebrating the homecoming, an old
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vintage. And the wine was probably made by women. Yeah. Oh, really? So
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that's. Wow. At the end of the first world War, you didn't have many men
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left. So the history of au Bailey goes back to where.
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The history of Obaili goes back to
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probably 800 years. Because we have.
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It's very difficult to find written proofs of the existence of
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vinesen before 13
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something. But we have found
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lots of written documents showing us what
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was obey from the 13th, 14th century.
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Before that, we know the vines were existing, but we don't know
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exactly to who it belonged, etcetera. So it's a
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parisian banker called Firmin Lebay, who fell
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in love with the existing vines and gave his name to the estate in
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00:24:14,748 --> 00:24:18,348
1630. And since 1630, the estate
390
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stayed the same. Superficies, which is very unique in
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Bordeaux. And then you had always
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very charismatic owners, strong personalities.
393
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In the 18th century, you even had the mayor of Bordeaux, mister
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Laforet de Montbadon. And then came an
395
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incredible man called Alcide bellot de Meniere.
396
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He was the hero of a novel called Heirlo des
397
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Grandieres, and his nickname was the king of Vintners.
398
00:24:47,926 --> 00:24:51,710
And he bought a bay in 1872. He built this house, which
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00:24:51,750 --> 00:24:55,382
is completely 19th century. And he
400
00:24:55,406 --> 00:24:58,718
plants the vineyard with his own recipe, a fil
401
00:24:58,774 --> 00:25:02,590
blend, having one 6th of Merlot, sorry,
402
00:25:02,630 --> 00:25:06,438
112 of Merlot, one 12th of Cabernet franc, one 12th of
403
00:25:06,454 --> 00:25:10,134
Petit Verdot, same thing of Carbonaire and Malbec, and
404
00:25:10,182 --> 00:25:13,930
712 of Cabernet Sauvignon. And we still have
405
00:25:15,100 --> 00:25:18,756
what he planted, 120. That's amazing. Yes. So the
406
00:25:18,828 --> 00:25:22,140
real field blend, I mean, at that time, he was probably picking at the same
407
00:25:22,180 --> 00:25:25,940
time and crushing altogether and making. It's pretty unusual these
408
00:25:25,980 --> 00:25:29,708
days. Well, no, actually, it was the way Bordeaux was doing the
409
00:25:29,764 --> 00:25:33,276
blend wines at that time, and we all forgot that, but the blend was done
410
00:25:33,308 --> 00:25:36,748
in the field. So it's actually one of the last plots around
411
00:25:36,804 --> 00:25:40,642
Bordeaux, which is still done in that way. And so
412
00:25:40,746 --> 00:25:44,482
you don't. We were talking about it outside. You now try to pick
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00:25:44,546 --> 00:25:48,270
the varietals at different points of ripeness, so that each
414
00:25:48,690 --> 00:25:52,490
cluster is ripe depending on what grape it is. But
415
00:25:52,570 --> 00:25:56,098
there's something interesting that hit me when you were discussing that. That is,
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00:25:56,274 --> 00:26:00,058
even though you're picking them at different times, and so it might look like it's
417
00:26:00,074 --> 00:26:03,682
just another plot. There has to be some kind of value to the idea that
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00:26:03,706 --> 00:26:06,824
these vines are growing with each other, even though they're different
419
00:26:06,872 --> 00:26:10,568
grapes. There's an influence between them that
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00:26:10,584 --> 00:26:14,176
would change those grapes than if they're on their own. There are
421
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two things, I think. The complexity it brings
422
00:26:18,184 --> 00:26:21,672
by the fact that it's planted together. And there is something
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00:26:21,776 --> 00:26:25,616
happening which definitely brings complexity. And there is the fact
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that they are very old. And what is
425
00:26:29,008 --> 00:26:32,784
fascinating with this very old vineyard is that they are able to
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00:26:32,832 --> 00:26:36,600
handle everything. They don't have disease. They
427
00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,472
always produce regularly. They don't produce very much, but they
428
00:26:40,496 --> 00:26:44,340
are so consistent. They are always, always
429
00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:49,500
responding. How do you say that? Delivering.
430
00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,736
So it's quite fascinating to see that those old vines have
431
00:26:53,768 --> 00:26:57,104
a strength and a power which is just
432
00:26:57,152 --> 00:27:00,972
incredible. And the wine we get from those vines
433
00:27:01,136 --> 00:27:04,964
is just so full, so complete, so intense,
434
00:27:05,132 --> 00:27:08,780
very deep. So it's the heart of our blend every
435
00:27:08,860 --> 00:27:12,060
single year. So you start with those that
436
00:27:12,100 --> 00:27:15,628
plot. How many hectares is the field blend? Four.
437
00:27:15,764 --> 00:27:19,548
So about ten acres. You start with
438
00:27:19,564 --> 00:27:23,252
that as the basic part of your cuve.
439
00:27:23,436 --> 00:27:27,134
And then you add and subtract from that to create a.
440
00:27:27,172 --> 00:27:31,002
Well, it's so intense and complex that on
441
00:27:31,026 --> 00:27:34,762
its own, it's almost too powerful. So you have to
442
00:27:34,866 --> 00:27:38,434
add, you know, and that the fascinating thing of making a blend,
443
00:27:38,562 --> 00:27:42,354
it's like being a perfumer and create something. And you take
444
00:27:42,402 --> 00:27:46,058
10% of that, which will add a little bit of lightness,
445
00:27:46,194 --> 00:27:50,018
10% of that, which will bring the floral
446
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aspect of the wine. And then you build it all about
447
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to keep the same style. And that is something which
448
00:27:57,648 --> 00:28:01,432
is very dear to obey, is that we
449
00:28:01,496 --> 00:28:04,860
never follow the fashion. We never go in
450
00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:09,000
too many different rows, but
451
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:12,780
we always try to keep our style, because
452
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:17,856
fashion change, but style lasts. Oh,
453
00:28:17,888 --> 00:28:21,224
I like that. Fashion changes, but style lasts. I'm going to write that down. I'm
454
00:28:21,232 --> 00:28:25,032
going to put that down. And that's part of the
455
00:28:25,056 --> 00:28:27,564
conversation. But before we. Before we get there, and I wrote it down so I
456
00:28:27,572 --> 00:28:30,892
don't forget this, the complexity of your wines
457
00:28:30,996 --> 00:28:34,756
is not overshadowed by the fact that the complexity of running
458
00:28:34,788 --> 00:28:38,284
this organization. In other words, we have this wonderful product. It's so romantic. We put
459
00:28:38,292 --> 00:28:41,492
it in the bottle, we share it, and we converse over. We taste the
460
00:28:41,556 --> 00:28:45,380
1918 and we fall in love again. But that takes
461
00:28:45,420 --> 00:28:48,428
a lot of work, and there's a lot of moving parts to doing this. Here
462
00:28:48,444 --> 00:28:51,124
we are in this wonderful chateau. You've got a tasting room. I saw a group
463
00:28:51,172 --> 00:28:54,936
go in. We have our tasting after this, you've got a seller. I mean,
464
00:28:54,968 --> 00:28:58,528
these are a lot of moving parts. How does one
465
00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:02,304
manage that leading to this? You said
466
00:29:02,432 --> 00:29:06,000
there was an intellectual complexity that you learned at
467
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:09,752
school that allowed you to be able to step in and do
468
00:29:09,776 --> 00:29:13,380
this role. What does that mean exactly? Well, I think
469
00:29:14,240 --> 00:29:16,140
to run a place like that,
470
00:29:18,960 --> 00:29:22,798
you need a diverse competence. You need
471
00:29:22,814 --> 00:29:25,250
to be able to understand what's going on in the field
472
00:29:26,310 --> 00:29:30,014
and also understand how the weather works. You need
473
00:29:30,062 --> 00:29:33,450
to know how to vinify wine. You need
474
00:29:35,510 --> 00:29:39,094
to have a certain charisma to lead a team and make
475
00:29:39,142 --> 00:29:42,790
them give the best of themselves every single day.
476
00:29:42,830 --> 00:29:46,398
Because the great strength of obey
477
00:29:46,494 --> 00:29:50,122
is a wonderful team working by passion,
478
00:29:50,206 --> 00:29:54,026
you know, everywhere. And I'm very, very proud of our
479
00:29:54,058 --> 00:29:57,562
team. But you also need to be able to meet people from all over the
480
00:29:57,586 --> 00:30:00,990
world. We are selling our wine in 80 different countries,
481
00:30:01,330 --> 00:30:05,122
so happy to see american friends. But we also
482
00:30:05,186 --> 00:30:08,818
have people coming from Asia, from England,
483
00:30:08,874 --> 00:30:12,698
from all over Europe. And that the fascinating thing is that we are
484
00:30:12,714 --> 00:30:16,230
able to travel and meet great people. So
485
00:30:16,930 --> 00:30:20,306
the way I'm running this company is that I
486
00:30:20,338 --> 00:30:23,580
believe in the. In the collective
487
00:30:26,680 --> 00:30:30,248
competence. And everybody brings things, and we are
488
00:30:30,304 --> 00:30:34,112
permanently analyzing what we are doing, and we
489
00:30:34,136 --> 00:30:37,856
are always doubting, how can we do better, how can
490
00:30:37,888 --> 00:30:40,900
we do, how can we go further, higher,
491
00:30:41,640 --> 00:30:45,456
faster? Because the world is changing, our environment is
492
00:30:45,488 --> 00:30:48,630
changing. And you should note, keep
493
00:30:49,050 --> 00:30:52,730
or stay on set recipes. You have to adapt
494
00:30:52,770 --> 00:30:56,370
permanently. We also believe in the japanese philosophy of
495
00:30:56,410 --> 00:31:00,106
Kaizen, you know, the permanent evolution,
496
00:31:00,298 --> 00:31:03,922
adaptation. And that's extremely important. And that the way you're
497
00:31:03,946 --> 00:31:07,770
making great wines, because if you have in mind what you're going
498
00:31:07,810 --> 00:31:11,522
to. The way you're going to cook next time with certain product, or
499
00:31:11,546 --> 00:31:15,292
the way you're going to harvest, you're wrong. Because
500
00:31:15,356 --> 00:31:18,468
things are changing around you. So you have to have a fresh
501
00:31:18,524 --> 00:31:21,480
mentality, a fresh spirit, and
502
00:31:21,780 --> 00:31:25,572
invent, create every day. That's the humility of it all, isn't that
503
00:31:25,596 --> 00:31:29,356
you have to. Your ideas of the future are already wrong before you start
504
00:31:29,388 --> 00:31:33,068
them, right? Exactly. Yes, but that's, you know, that's. You
505
00:31:33,084 --> 00:31:36,716
said very eloquently and very articulate. You articulated that
506
00:31:36,748 --> 00:31:40,356
concept very well. It's easier said than done. We have people
507
00:31:40,428 --> 00:31:43,440
involved, which is always, you know, always an issue.
508
00:31:44,060 --> 00:31:47,212
You've got the weather, you've got the. All the different pieces that are
509
00:31:47,236 --> 00:31:50,956
moving, and you have to be able to balance those. You went to
510
00:31:50,988 --> 00:31:54,372
Sorbonne, you studied nothing that dealt with
511
00:31:54,396 --> 00:31:57,960
wine. And maybe that's the value of your education
512
00:31:58,500 --> 00:32:01,724
later. I studied wine later. Yeah. So you studied
513
00:32:01,772 --> 00:32:05,540
economics, and so you have a bird's eye view of some of
514
00:32:05,580 --> 00:32:09,414
this that's going on. So this is a part of
515
00:32:09,422 --> 00:32:12,894
the wine business that frustrates me. I wish it was a
516
00:32:12,942 --> 00:32:16,598
product that transcended profit and that we only
517
00:32:16,654 --> 00:32:19,750
got to make the things that we are
518
00:32:19,830 --> 00:32:23,570
expressing exactly what we cannot express. But we are in a business.
519
00:32:24,270 --> 00:32:27,502
You know, the Ottany group out of the Rhone Valley, it's
520
00:32:27,686 --> 00:32:31,366
fine wine think tank. Nicole rollet, I think, is
521
00:32:31,398 --> 00:32:35,142
the president, and I had that conversation with them, and it's
522
00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:38,734
like the consumer has always driven the wine business.
523
00:32:38,862 --> 00:32:42,470
Let's take Madame Clicquot. She made a slightly sweeter
524
00:32:42,510 --> 00:32:45,942
cuvet for the Russians than she did for the English, that kind of thing.
525
00:32:46,126 --> 00:32:49,330
And obviously, very important. But
526
00:32:50,190 --> 00:32:53,894
when you talk about style, doesn't. Style is permanent, and fashion
527
00:32:53,942 --> 00:32:56,730
comes and goes. Are we talking about
528
00:32:57,750 --> 00:33:01,280
the. The makeup of the wine, the, let's say, the sugar
529
00:33:01,320 --> 00:33:05,056
content? Are we talking about how we market the wine when we're
530
00:33:05,088 --> 00:33:08,848
trying to evolve the business? Are we maintaining a
531
00:33:08,864 --> 00:33:12,180
very straight focus on the best wine we can make from the terroir?
532
00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:16,664
And then the innovation comes in getting it to the customer,
533
00:33:16,832 --> 00:33:20,408
or is the innovation in figuring out what the
534
00:33:20,424 --> 00:33:24,216
customer wants? I think you have to respect your
535
00:33:24,248 --> 00:33:27,972
terroir first and to give the chance to the
536
00:33:28,036 --> 00:33:31,652
terroir to express itself, because what is
537
00:33:31,756 --> 00:33:34,948
extremely important, more than anything, is the
538
00:33:35,004 --> 00:33:38,084
identity. If you lose your
539
00:33:38,132 --> 00:33:41,876
identity, you lose your customer. Why
540
00:33:41,908 --> 00:33:45,380
do people drink, obey? It's because they love the style
541
00:33:45,420 --> 00:33:49,164
of elegance. Fine tannins,
542
00:33:49,332 --> 00:33:52,600
very silky tannins, nothing aggressive.
543
00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:56,078
Something which is built to last
544
00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:59,398
forever. So the longevity of the
545
00:33:59,414 --> 00:34:03,206
wine. And if you are not true or
546
00:34:03,238 --> 00:34:06,806
respectful to your own identity, you lose
547
00:34:06,838 --> 00:34:10,326
it. You lose your customers. So it's very important
548
00:34:10,478 --> 00:34:13,770
both to respect your terroir and to keep your style.
549
00:34:14,390 --> 00:34:18,046
Wow, that's complicated. Respectively keep
550
00:34:18,078 --> 00:34:21,705
your style. So that. And I've learned this
551
00:34:21,777 --> 00:34:25,369
more. I've gotten closer to understanding this because of this
552
00:34:25,409 --> 00:34:29,081
trip only. And that is, you've got to
553
00:34:29,145 --> 00:34:32,753
keep that steady eye on what Obaee
554
00:34:32,841 --> 00:34:36,185
is and what it means to the consumer and the
555
00:34:36,217 --> 00:34:40,001
consumer. And this is my true belief in the wine business, comes to
556
00:34:40,025 --> 00:34:43,849
obeyee and learns and then understands it. Not that
557
00:34:43,889 --> 00:34:47,470
we decide to make something we think they're going to like. Yes,
558
00:34:47,510 --> 00:34:50,770
because also, we are making wine for today.
559
00:34:51,430 --> 00:34:55,150
Today, we have to make the best wine we can do today with the
560
00:34:55,190 --> 00:34:58,686
technology of today, the weather of today, with the
561
00:34:58,718 --> 00:35:02,406
terroir we cherish. But most of our wines will
562
00:35:02,438 --> 00:35:06,134
be drunk in 1015 2050
563
00:35:06,262 --> 00:35:09,686
years. So if you are
564
00:35:09,798 --> 00:35:13,396
trying to follow the taste of the consumer of today, you're wrong.
565
00:35:13,508 --> 00:35:17,260
You're completely wrong. You know, Aubai is above
566
00:35:17,340 --> 00:35:20,396
that. The top wines of Bordeaux are
567
00:35:20,508 --> 00:35:24,320
above following the consumer. We have to think
568
00:35:24,700 --> 00:35:28,348
further. And for the long term, I
569
00:35:28,364 --> 00:35:32,100
think. As such a refreshing. And
570
00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:35,916
I'm not going to say that the american wine industry is not doing
571
00:35:35,948 --> 00:35:39,280
that as well. There's certainly vineyards in Napa, Sonoma,
572
00:35:39,820 --> 00:35:43,492
central Coast, that follow that philosophy. It
573
00:35:43,516 --> 00:35:46,996
has to be. But at the same time, the most popular
574
00:35:47,068 --> 00:35:50,868
wines in the industry are these sort of formula wines. They
575
00:35:50,924 --> 00:35:54,140
follow some kind of structure of a
576
00:35:54,180 --> 00:35:57,380
palatable character, a consumer driven
577
00:35:57,460 --> 00:36:00,800
palette, and it's fine. I think we need those
578
00:36:01,700 --> 00:36:04,960
to bring people to wine that otherwise weren't drinking wine.
579
00:36:05,580 --> 00:36:09,292
But it ebbs and flows, because by. Experience,
580
00:36:09,436 --> 00:36:12,560
I know when a wine is great, it makes unanimity.
581
00:36:14,380 --> 00:36:17,040
I can tell you when you have a great wine,
582
00:36:17,900 --> 00:36:21,572
usually there is a silence around the
583
00:36:21,596 --> 00:36:25,356
table, because there is emotion. And this emotion is
584
00:36:25,388 --> 00:36:29,020
created by the fact you just did the best you can do.
585
00:36:29,180 --> 00:36:32,420
You have a great wow. You respect it. And then you deliver an amazing
586
00:36:32,460 --> 00:36:36,194
wine and it always makes unanimity. That's so
587
00:36:36,242 --> 00:36:38,990
fun. Is that. But do you think
588
00:36:39,690 --> 00:36:43,162
that part of the aristocracy of wine and
589
00:36:43,306 --> 00:36:46,642
the people, that. And it's a very important part of the
590
00:36:46,666 --> 00:36:49,666
consumerism is everybody looks at wine, particularly
591
00:36:49,818 --> 00:36:53,442
utwine, that, oh, you guys are snobs. You talk about, you
592
00:36:53,466 --> 00:36:57,122
say words that you don't. We don't understand. And I don't understand when you say
593
00:36:57,266 --> 00:37:00,870
cedar box and leather. Sometimes I think we
594
00:37:00,950 --> 00:37:04,726
propagate our own aristocracy around the wine
595
00:37:04,758 --> 00:37:07,850
industry. But on the flip side,
596
00:37:09,070 --> 00:37:12,806
that's what it's about. It's the understanding of this
597
00:37:12,838 --> 00:37:16,590
complexity and saying, wow, I may not be able to define it yet,
598
00:37:16,630 --> 00:37:20,382
but, man, I sure taste it. Yeah. I think
599
00:37:20,406 --> 00:37:23,610
what is the most important thing is, do I love it or not?
600
00:37:23,950 --> 00:37:27,316
Does it speak to me or nothing? When I'm tasting in
601
00:37:27,348 --> 00:37:30,920
1918, or at the beginning of my career, I had
602
00:37:31,300 --> 00:37:34,932
in Miami, an american collector served me in a
603
00:37:34,956 --> 00:37:38,796
blind tasting, obey 64 from Magnum.
604
00:37:38,988 --> 00:37:42,460
I didn't know what it was, but I put my nose in the glass and
605
00:37:42,500 --> 00:37:45,828
I knew I was at home. And
606
00:37:45,924 --> 00:37:49,652
then I had the feeling my great grandfather was talking to me,
607
00:37:49,676 --> 00:37:53,516
although he was already not anymore on this planet. That's really
608
00:37:53,548 --> 00:37:56,828
cool. And then I had the feeling I was transported into space.
609
00:37:56,964 --> 00:38:00,732
So it's about an emotion, and
610
00:38:00,756 --> 00:38:04,532
a great wine provides an emotion. It can just make
611
00:38:04,556 --> 00:38:08,212
you think of something you had this year. It can just provide
612
00:38:08,356 --> 00:38:12,040
a moment where you feel, wow, this is a unique moment.
613
00:38:12,540 --> 00:38:16,220
So happy to be here. My family, my friends,
614
00:38:16,380 --> 00:38:19,640
and this wine is bringing something
615
00:38:20,100 --> 00:38:23,334
more, you know, to the conversation, to the spirits of
616
00:38:23,372 --> 00:38:26,954
experiential. We were in Paris about, I think it
617
00:38:26,962 --> 00:38:30,150
was about ten years ago, and just a regular
618
00:38:30,610 --> 00:38:34,458
tourist cafe. I ordered the quiche and they put
619
00:38:34,474 --> 00:38:37,306
it in front of me, and my wife looked at me, she goes, what's wrong
620
00:38:37,338 --> 00:38:41,122
with you? I said, nothing. I said, this took me back 40 years, because my
621
00:38:41,146 --> 00:38:44,498
mother was a very good cook and she made the same Tyle quiche. And I
622
00:38:44,514 --> 00:38:48,162
just took one smell and I go, I haven't smelled this for. Since my
623
00:38:48,186 --> 00:38:51,972
childhood. And wine does that all the time, if you have a proper glass
624
00:38:51,996 --> 00:38:55,612
of wine. And we should educate young people
625
00:38:55,796 --> 00:38:59,492
to drink together, to share, to remember that when they open the
626
00:38:59,516 --> 00:39:03,316
bottle and you're not there anymore, they will think of you, because
627
00:39:03,428 --> 00:39:06,916
that the way, if you keep talking about people and
628
00:39:06,988 --> 00:39:10,108
having something in common through the
629
00:39:10,124 --> 00:39:13,740
wine, that keeps a
630
00:39:13,900 --> 00:39:17,506
memory alive. You know, I taught my son in laws about
631
00:39:17,658 --> 00:39:20,910
champagne in Obaee, and now it's costing me too much money.
632
00:39:22,450 --> 00:39:25,986
But the conversation, too, that's going on the Internet about the language of
633
00:39:26,018 --> 00:39:29,818
wine and innovation. And wine, and
634
00:39:29,834 --> 00:39:33,370
I don't mean innovation in how we manufacture, because
635
00:39:33,490 --> 00:39:36,922
everything you do here is to produce the best product you can from what you're
636
00:39:36,946 --> 00:39:40,714
given. I think the innovation they're talking about is either
637
00:39:40,762 --> 00:39:44,430
marketing or consumerism. And then the language.
638
00:39:44,470 --> 00:39:47,758
And interesting conversation with Monsieur Clouet from Cheval
639
00:39:47,774 --> 00:39:51,102
Blanc, and that was. Yeah, you know, your
640
00:39:51,166 --> 00:39:54,622
father and my father described wines differently than we do
641
00:39:54,646 --> 00:39:58,446
today. And Michael Broadbent described wines
642
00:39:58,478 --> 00:40:01,934
in his generation different than we do today. And maybe Harry Waugh. And then you
643
00:40:01,942 --> 00:40:05,770
just keep going backwards to know that
644
00:40:06,270 --> 00:40:09,886
maybe that's what they mean. Because I still have yet to understand what changing the
645
00:40:09,918 --> 00:40:13,420
language of wine means, because if we change it to something else, then
646
00:40:14,160 --> 00:40:17,860
somebody else isn't going to understand it either. So I'm not sure. Have you
647
00:40:18,440 --> 00:40:22,080
followed this or heard people talking about changing the language of wine? Yes,
648
00:40:22,120 --> 00:40:25,568
but before that, the taste of wine changed.
649
00:40:25,704 --> 00:40:29,376
Well, that's true, too. The wines my great
650
00:40:29,408 --> 00:40:33,060
grandfather did is not the wine we are doing today.
651
00:40:33,680 --> 00:40:37,496
There is always the identity of the estate, which is
652
00:40:37,528 --> 00:40:41,064
there, but we are working in a very different way.
653
00:40:41,232 --> 00:40:43,824
And I remember when my grandfather tasted
654
00:40:43,872 --> 00:40:47,440
2005, he told me, God, this is
655
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:51,056
probably the best wine we ever made. And I said, come on, you
656
00:40:51,088 --> 00:40:54,856
did beautiful vintages, like 61, 64 and so many
657
00:40:54,888 --> 00:40:58,656
others, 89, 90. And he said, yes, but nature gave
658
00:40:58,688 --> 00:41:01,960
it to us all. And today you have
659
00:41:02,000 --> 00:41:05,736
nature, but you have the way you're working with so
660
00:41:05,768 --> 00:41:08,836
much care, precision, technology that
661
00:41:09,008 --> 00:41:12,708
able, that helped you do wines which are
662
00:41:12,764 --> 00:41:16,404
just spectacular. And it is true that in Bordeaux,
663
00:41:16,492 --> 00:41:20,228
we did a series of more than 20 vintages which are just
664
00:41:20,284 --> 00:41:23,612
exceptional. So the taste of wine is also
665
00:41:23,676 --> 00:41:27,452
changing. And all
666
00:41:27,476 --> 00:41:30,700
of our jobs changed
667
00:41:30,740 --> 00:41:34,476
incredibly in the last 20 years. We just welcomed a few
668
00:41:34,508 --> 00:41:38,312
months ago, our first robot in the vines. And the new
669
00:41:38,336 --> 00:41:41,780
seller we have is a concentrate of innovation
670
00:41:42,240 --> 00:41:45,736
at the service of tradition. And you're right in
671
00:41:45,768 --> 00:41:49,560
distribution, marketing, everything. We have so
672
00:41:49,600 --> 00:41:53,392
many more ways of talking to people who love
673
00:41:53,416 --> 00:41:56,920
wine and who love our wine. It's fascinating, but it's
674
00:41:57,000 --> 00:42:00,648
at every step that things are changing, and changing
675
00:42:00,744 --> 00:42:03,740
in a very fast way. Very fast.
676
00:42:05,200 --> 00:42:08,140
Like I told you, my business relied on the Internet
677
00:42:08,760 --> 00:42:11,776
to sell wine, which we did for. My first website was
678
00:42:11,808 --> 00:42:15,608
1997. I sent 33
679
00:42:15,664 --> 00:42:19,312
million emails in 2022. So just to
680
00:42:19,336 --> 00:42:22,888
sell, and my wines were $15 to $18. They weren't expensive
681
00:42:22,944 --> 00:42:26,504
wine. And so I'm trying to figure out, when they talk about innovation,
682
00:42:26,632 --> 00:42:30,414
you're innovating on the processing side and the experiential side is we
683
00:42:30,422 --> 00:42:34,142
were almost out of time. It's unbelievable. But I'm not sure what
684
00:42:34,166 --> 00:42:37,998
they mean by innovation in that. I guess they're like, for
685
00:42:38,014 --> 00:42:41,846
instance, I don't think putting your camera on a bottle of 19 crimes
686
00:42:41,878 --> 00:42:45,406
and getting a moving character is
687
00:42:45,438 --> 00:42:49,230
innovation in the wine business. That's just sizzle marketing stuff. I mean,
688
00:42:49,270 --> 00:42:52,542
who cares about that? But the idea of
689
00:42:52,566 --> 00:42:55,902
innovation, maybe they mean what you're doing in
690
00:42:55,926 --> 00:42:59,754
the. So I'm not getting anywhere with this part of
691
00:42:59,762 --> 00:43:02,430
the conversation because I'm not sure what they mean by this,
692
00:43:03,730 --> 00:43:07,378
because I think wine is such a romantic and experiential
693
00:43:07,434 --> 00:43:10,270
product, and maybe I'll just move into that
694
00:43:11,050 --> 00:43:14,830
because of my experience on the Internet and because the Internet has created
695
00:43:15,570 --> 00:43:18,898
bargain shoppers. Now, let's say, I know I want Obaee
696
00:43:18,954 --> 00:43:22,744
2005 because of this conversation. I
697
00:43:22,752 --> 00:43:25,576
can go to the Internet and buy it, right? But that's not the experience of
698
00:43:25,608 --> 00:43:28,820
the Obaee, that's because of the price.
699
00:43:29,400 --> 00:43:33,140
But if I really. I really think the wine business is going back to
700
00:43:33,560 --> 00:43:37,232
those days. My father was the president of a Les Amis devant
701
00:43:37,296 --> 00:43:40,704
chapter in California, and they had dinners.
702
00:43:40,872 --> 00:43:44,696
They exposed the people to wine in its infancy in California
703
00:43:44,728 --> 00:43:48,432
in the seventies, when we just started, so to speak. And I really believe, from
704
00:43:48,456 --> 00:43:52,080
a marketing standpoint, what you do, which is traveling the world,
705
00:43:52,940 --> 00:43:56,708
going to the different expos? Pouring the glasses, I mean, shocking. You
706
00:43:56,724 --> 00:44:00,204
were in LA, pouring your own wines is really going
707
00:44:00,252 --> 00:44:03,716
backwards to the days of. I had this experience
708
00:44:03,868 --> 00:44:07,332
with Veronique. That's important part
709
00:44:07,356 --> 00:44:11,200
of my appreciation for the brand.
710
00:44:11,620 --> 00:44:14,996
Do you sense that? I love that,
711
00:44:15,068 --> 00:44:18,910
actually, I love to be close to people
712
00:44:19,490 --> 00:44:23,002
who will buy and drink our
713
00:44:23,026 --> 00:44:26,834
wine, because it's fabulous to be here
714
00:44:26,882 --> 00:44:30,730
at Obaya alone in your vineyard, or trying to best
715
00:44:30,770 --> 00:44:34,202
the best wine ever for the generation to
716
00:44:34,226 --> 00:44:37,970
come. But when you have the opportunity to meet the people who love
717
00:44:38,010 --> 00:44:41,370
what you're doing, to exchange about it, to
718
00:44:41,410 --> 00:44:45,072
share the passion, I think
719
00:44:45,096 --> 00:44:48,300
it's great. I love it. It's a reward.
720
00:44:49,000 --> 00:44:52,400
That's a great way to look at it. I think it's critical
721
00:44:52,440 --> 00:44:56,224
now the wine industry is in a bad place, generally, worldwide. I'm very
722
00:44:56,272 --> 00:44:59,800
happy you had a wonderful elm premier because people came
723
00:44:59,840 --> 00:45:03,264
and you experienced it. There are other wineries in this region that didn't have such
724
00:45:03,312 --> 00:45:06,896
success during the Elm premier. But in general, wine consumption is
725
00:45:06,928 --> 00:45:10,776
down. The millennials don't do it as much. The Gen Zs, nobody
726
00:45:10,808 --> 00:45:14,226
knows what they're doing, their drink. What I don't understand about those
727
00:45:14,258 --> 00:45:18,018
people is they talk about organic and biodynamic and they want fresh food and
728
00:45:18,034 --> 00:45:20,594
they go to whole foods and they go to these markets, but then they drink
729
00:45:20,642 --> 00:45:24,290
stuff like white claw, which is full of artificial ingredients and bubbly.
730
00:45:24,370 --> 00:45:26,190
You know, merd.
731
00:45:28,130 --> 00:45:31,746
The way we make wine in France is that you have a
732
00:45:31,778 --> 00:45:35,150
rule, and rule number one is that everything is forbidden.
733
00:45:36,290 --> 00:45:39,992
You can't irrigate, you can't protect your vines, you can't
734
00:45:40,056 --> 00:45:43,672
add anything in your wine. So that's a very important.
735
00:45:43,776 --> 00:45:47,264
Is that Bon de France? I mean, all the France, all over. France, we respect
736
00:45:47,352 --> 00:45:50,920
the character of the appellation de. So
737
00:45:51,040 --> 00:45:54,264
if you are not respecting it, you are declassified.
738
00:45:54,432 --> 00:45:58,096
So that's something to keep in mind. When
739
00:45:58,128 --> 00:46:01,800
you make wine tastings with wine from
740
00:46:01,840 --> 00:46:05,544
other wine regions in the world, it's a very different way
741
00:46:05,592 --> 00:46:09,306
of cultivating and producing. It's interesting that you said
742
00:46:09,338 --> 00:46:13,150
that, because this group we're with today,
743
00:46:13,490 --> 00:46:16,978
obviously, we live in California. There's very popular
744
00:46:17,034 --> 00:46:20,682
brands, and many entry level consumers
745
00:46:20,826 --> 00:46:23,590
will buy those brands because of their popularity. And
746
00:46:24,530 --> 00:46:27,786
there may be a sense of aristocracy if you have one of these
747
00:46:27,818 --> 00:46:31,510
brands. But now they're tasting structured, complex,
748
00:46:32,130 --> 00:46:35,670
terroir driven wines. Ever since we started on the right
749
00:46:35,710 --> 00:46:39,302
bank, and the comment was made last night at dinner at
750
00:46:39,326 --> 00:46:43,170
Lipop, which was, I'm starting to understand
751
00:46:43,950 --> 00:46:47,650
this idea of acid fruit, and
752
00:46:47,950 --> 00:46:51,542
sensing the terroir. And we had a wine
753
00:46:51,566 --> 00:46:55,078
yesterday at the La Lum de Pomeran, and the gentleman said,
754
00:46:55,174 --> 00:46:58,010
there's iron ore in the ground
755
00:46:58,390 --> 00:47:02,206
that's creating this character. And all of a sudden you go, bing. I get
756
00:47:02,238 --> 00:47:05,416
it now. You know, that flavor makes sense, what I'm
757
00:47:05,448 --> 00:47:09,184
tasting. So it's fascinating. But we're. Can you believe we're
758
00:47:09,192 --> 00:47:12,952
at 48 minutes already? I hope we can do
759
00:47:12,976 --> 00:47:16,656
this again. We haven't even touched on. Look, I got three pages more notes to
760
00:47:16,688 --> 00:47:20,320
go over, but it's been a fascinating time
761
00:47:20,360 --> 00:47:23,584
to sit with you and have this
762
00:47:23,752 --> 00:47:27,576
understanding of Obaee and your career and the
763
00:47:27,608 --> 00:47:31,244
things that it takes to be, I'm not going to say successful.
764
00:47:31,292 --> 00:47:34,892
To be recognized in this industry. It's not easy to
765
00:47:34,916 --> 00:47:38,500
do. Well. Thank you, Paul. I enjoyed speaking with you and
766
00:47:38,620 --> 00:47:42,364
always a pleasure to be. Cheers. Are you coming to LA soon? I know you
767
00:47:42,372 --> 00:47:46,148
got a lot of travel ahead of you, but yes, pretty. For sure in the
768
00:47:46,164 --> 00:47:49,524
coming months. I always loved LA with MMD or.
769
00:47:49,652 --> 00:47:53,196
MMD or just to show Bailee for a few
770
00:47:53,228 --> 00:47:56,660
tastings. I hope you stay in touch and we can regroup.
771
00:47:56,820 --> 00:47:59,520
With great pleasure. Cheers. Cheers.
772
00:48:08,180 --> 00:48:11,540
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul, Callum, Cary. And don't forget to
773
00:48:11,580 --> 00:48:14,740
subscribe because there's more great interviews on their way.
774
00:48:14,900 --> 00:48:18,220
Folks, have a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.
00:00:00,240 --> 00:00:03,558
Folks shop where I shop when I need that special bottle or that
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00:01:00,708 --> 00:01:04,124
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responsibly. B 21 Carson
20
00:01:08,500 --> 00:01:12,280
Leno Fallon now
21
00:01:12,980 --> 00:01:16,560
it's wine talks with Paul K.
22
00:01:17,700 --> 00:01:21,004
Hey, welcome to wine talks with Paul K. And we are at away game in
23
00:01:21,012 --> 00:01:24,220
the grave district, the Pesach Leonon no see. Is it also
24
00:01:24,260 --> 00:01:27,844
pesachelnion or is it the grave Pesachelon? Engrave the grave
25
00:01:27,892 --> 00:01:30,920
region and the appellation of pesachelion. So the sub region.
26
00:01:32,580 --> 00:01:36,412
Hey, I want you guys to have a listen to a podcast I did
27
00:01:36,436 --> 00:01:40,012
with Paul Warston. Just came out a few weeks ago, and that is because
28
00:01:40,156 --> 00:01:43,508
he is the winemaker of an eight acre
29
00:01:43,644 --> 00:01:47,140
vineyard in Bel Air, California, if not known as
30
00:01:47,180 --> 00:01:50,840
Beverly Hills. The question is, who makes wine in Beverly
31
00:01:50,880 --> 00:01:54,616
Hills? Well, Paul does. It's a great conversation as well. There's another episode
32
00:01:54,648 --> 00:01:58,408
just came out with Julie Hernandez. Julie walked into my office
33
00:01:58,544 --> 00:02:02,344
about 20 years ago. I told myself, this young woman will never make it
34
00:02:02,352 --> 00:02:05,720
in this industry. It's too hard. And she became a local executive, one of the
35
00:02:05,760 --> 00:02:09,488
largest distributors in California, and she just retired. And it
36
00:02:09,504 --> 00:02:12,032
wasn't for her. I think wine of the month club would have been in dire
37
00:02:12,096 --> 00:02:15,448
straits to find wine and to make deals in this industry. So listen to
38
00:02:15,464 --> 00:02:18,892
that, but not why we're here. We're here to see and have a conversation with
39
00:02:18,916 --> 00:02:22,460
veteran Lisanders Van Beck and she's the director
40
00:02:22,540 --> 00:02:26,340
president of a Chateau aux Bailly here in the grave in the Pesach
41
00:02:26,380 --> 00:02:30,084
L'Oignon district. But welcome to the show. Thank you. Thank you, Paul.
42
00:02:30,172 --> 00:02:33,920
It's so fun because we met at the tasting
43
00:02:34,300 --> 00:02:37,916
at that crazy museum. What was that thing? That Uncle
44
00:02:37,948 --> 00:02:41,460
Ben's museum or something? Brain brainwashing.
45
00:02:41,500 --> 00:02:45,052
Brainwash, that's right. You have a better memory. And that was
46
00:02:45,076 --> 00:02:48,596
with Maison Marc domain group.
47
00:02:48,748 --> 00:02:52,508
And I want to talk about that too. A little bit, but more interesting. I
48
00:02:52,524 --> 00:02:55,988
just read this morning that you poured wine at a very
49
00:02:56,044 --> 00:02:59,372
important dinner at Versailles. And tell
50
00:02:59,396 --> 00:03:02,884
me President Macron was there. I mean, this is pretty serious
51
00:03:02,932 --> 00:03:06,532
stuff. Yes, this is a beautiful event which is
52
00:03:06,556 --> 00:03:10,340
called choose France. And Mister
53
00:03:10,380 --> 00:03:13,732
Macron invited top leaders around the world who
54
00:03:13,756 --> 00:03:17,598
might invest in France or investing in France.
55
00:03:17,734 --> 00:03:21,502
So it was a dinner for, I think, 300 top
56
00:03:21,566 --> 00:03:25,414
businessmen from all around
57
00:03:25,462 --> 00:03:29,022
the world. And they choose obey. So choose, friends choose
58
00:03:29,046 --> 00:03:32,518
obey. That's right. Choose France. Choose. That's our new
59
00:03:32,574 --> 00:03:35,930
slogan, right? Exactly. Cause that's a
60
00:03:36,790 --> 00:03:40,478
pretty impressive accolade that the president of the country would choose
61
00:03:40,574 --> 00:03:43,844
to for that. Did obeyee always have that
62
00:03:43,892 --> 00:03:47,260
distinction in the world of wine? Or is that a more current
63
00:03:47,420 --> 00:03:51,100
distinction? Or is it something that you earn and takes a long
64
00:03:51,140 --> 00:03:54,588
time? I think Obaii has a very long history
65
00:03:54,724 --> 00:03:58,108
and a beautiful history. It always belonged to very strong
66
00:03:58,164 --> 00:04:01,844
personalities. And if you are looking at the
67
00:04:02,012 --> 00:04:04,748
great golden age of obey, between
68
00:04:04,844 --> 00:04:08,500
1872 and 1940, Aubai was selling at the same
69
00:04:08,540 --> 00:04:12,296
price as the first gross Lafitte Latour, Margot Aubrion.
70
00:04:12,468 --> 00:04:16,104
And at that time it was already very much looked
71
00:04:16,152 --> 00:04:19,860
after, regarded, considered.
72
00:04:21,680 --> 00:04:25,304
More recently, I know that Dominique de Villepin chose
73
00:04:25,352 --> 00:04:28,488
aubailly for meeting in New York
74
00:04:28,664 --> 00:04:30,740
with La Nue
75
00:04:32,160 --> 00:04:35,528
as a beautiful image of a french
76
00:04:35,584 --> 00:04:39,242
terroir which belonged to an american. So it was
77
00:04:39,266 --> 00:04:43,018
a symbolic wine chosen for
78
00:04:43,074 --> 00:04:46,586
this event to show also the friendship between our two
79
00:04:46,618 --> 00:04:50,390
countries. And you gave us the Statue of Liberty. I mean,
80
00:04:51,930 --> 00:04:55,618
that's a very important thing. No, that's an interesting thought though, you just
81
00:04:55,634 --> 00:04:59,290
said, because I'm here with a large group of friends and
82
00:04:59,330 --> 00:05:03,178
cousins and family and clients as well. And they're learning about
83
00:05:03,194 --> 00:05:06,562
the classification of 1855. They're learning about the classification of
84
00:05:06,586 --> 00:05:10,390
1955. And here you're saying, which I thought when Napoleon
85
00:05:10,430 --> 00:05:13,854
III, the great nephew, right, of the great general,
86
00:05:14,022 --> 00:05:17,810
decided to do the classification, it was really for
87
00:05:18,230 --> 00:05:21,966
elevating the popularity of Bordeaux to the world's
88
00:05:21,998 --> 00:05:24,570
eye. Right at the fair in Paris.
89
00:05:26,550 --> 00:05:29,694
And you were selling at the same price. And I always thought that the original
90
00:05:29,742 --> 00:05:32,090
classification was kind of based on the price.
91
00:05:33,540 --> 00:05:36,452
Actually, the classification of the medoc was done in
92
00:05:36,476 --> 00:05:40,132
1855, but don't forget that in Bordeaux, you
93
00:05:40,196 --> 00:05:44,020
don't only have one classification, but you have several classifications.
94
00:05:44,140 --> 00:05:47,868
You have the one of the medoc and Sauternes made in 1855,
95
00:05:48,004 --> 00:05:51,600
which was supposed to last just the time of the world exhibition,
96
00:05:52,220 --> 00:05:55,732
based on price, but you also have the one of Saint Emilion,
97
00:05:55,916 --> 00:05:59,324
which is more recent, and the one of the classified growth of
98
00:05:59,372 --> 00:06:02,972
grave, which was done one century
99
00:06:03,036 --> 00:06:06,488
after. And we belong to that. That one. And
100
00:06:06,624 --> 00:06:10,376
Pomerol doesn't have any classification, although Petrus might be
101
00:06:10,408 --> 00:06:13,880
the most famous wine around the world. So that's an interesting
102
00:06:13,920 --> 00:06:17,232
concept, though, because nowhere else in the world, except for maybe Italy, the
103
00:06:17,256 --> 00:06:21,048
DOCG and Doc. And that's just not really a ranking, that's just the
104
00:06:21,144 --> 00:06:24,912
classification of the appellation. Does this exist?
105
00:06:25,096 --> 00:06:28,488
And we had a conversation yesterday with Cheval
106
00:06:28,504 --> 00:06:32,300
Blanc Angelus, and talking about how
107
00:06:32,920 --> 00:06:34,420
I always have a hard time with
108
00:06:36,800 --> 00:06:40,480
their chardonnay, that they've opted
109
00:06:40,520 --> 00:06:44,216
out of the classification in Saint Emilion because
110
00:06:44,288 --> 00:06:47,460
it included hospitality service,
111
00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:52,672
hotel options. And they said, we're not going to
112
00:06:52,696 --> 00:06:55,740
play that game. Parking was part of this conversation.
113
00:06:56,400 --> 00:07:00,030
Do you think, just personally, that it should be a dynamic.
114
00:07:00,570 --> 00:07:04,202
Well, the case of Saint Emilion is special because it's a
115
00:07:04,266 --> 00:07:08,098
classification which is reopened every ten years. So if the
116
00:07:08,114 --> 00:07:11,818
rules of the game change, I can understand that some of them
117
00:07:11,954 --> 00:07:15,602
disagree or want to do differently. In
118
00:07:15,626 --> 00:07:18,930
our case, in the grave, it's very stable and it never
119
00:07:18,970 --> 00:07:22,658
reopened. So we are 14 classified growth with
120
00:07:22,714 --> 00:07:26,354
Aubrion being on leadership or leader or
121
00:07:26,402 --> 00:07:29,942
flagship. I mean, and all the
122
00:07:29,966 --> 00:07:33,806
classified growths are based in Pesach, like Aubreyon and Lamis
123
00:07:33,838 --> 00:07:37,342
Aubrion, and in Lyonon, where we are located with Aubai.
124
00:07:37,526 --> 00:07:41,166
So that's interesting. It leads to this
125
00:07:41,198 --> 00:07:43,410
conversation about culture of wine.
126
00:07:45,430 --> 00:07:49,230
This group I'm with, we're learning that the french culture
127
00:07:49,270 --> 00:07:52,558
is wine. In fact, one of your representatives at Lepte
128
00:07:52,654 --> 00:07:56,382
said, you're almost not french if you don't like wine, which is
129
00:07:56,406 --> 00:08:00,060
a cute saying. That's what she meant. And I thought, that's
130
00:08:00,100 --> 00:08:03,740
very different than what the american view
131
00:08:03,780 --> 00:08:07,628
of wine is. The american view is you go to Napa Valley, you
132
00:08:07,644 --> 00:08:09,040
go up and down the highway,
133
00:08:12,060 --> 00:08:15,308
you make a lot of money in your career, and you buy a winery and
134
00:08:15,324 --> 00:08:19,148
you get to live this lifestyle. And it's the next step of
135
00:08:19,164 --> 00:08:22,956
a lifestyle instead of in Europe and in France. And particularly, it
136
00:08:22,988 --> 00:08:26,464
is the lifestyle. You're here every day,
137
00:08:26,512 --> 00:08:30,208
you live it, you breathe it. And it takes this passion to do that. And
138
00:08:30,304 --> 00:08:33,952
you started with your father. I started with my grandfather. Your
139
00:08:33,976 --> 00:08:37,712
grandfather? Yes. I think it's more than a
140
00:08:37,736 --> 00:08:41,456
lifestyle. It's a mission. And it's something
141
00:08:41,528 --> 00:08:45,140
you do by passion. And with passion,
142
00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:50,400
you can never stop working. You can work seven days a week
143
00:08:50,440 --> 00:08:53,340
and 365 days a year because
144
00:08:54,550 --> 00:08:58,286
you always have an eye on what's going
145
00:08:58,318 --> 00:09:02,118
on in the field, what the weather going to be, what are
146
00:09:02,134 --> 00:09:05,958
the challenges you're going to have to deal with. So it's
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a never ending process. It is also a
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lifestyle, a beautiful lifestyle. And at Le Pape, you had a little bit
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of this french art de vivre that we are
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having lunch and dinners every day here with
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beautiful food, fresh ingredients from the market,
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matching all the wines we are going to serve at the table.
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So it is true that we are very privileged,
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but we are also fully dedicated to our
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vineyards because we do wine, not just for
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today, but we do wine for the next generation, for people who
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are going to drink it in many, many years and enjoy the fruit of
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our work. It doesn't feel like work, does it?
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I think if you love your work and if you do it by passion, you
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never have the feeling you're working. It's a unique product, though,
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and I've had a hard time defining this or getting a definition. Maybe there
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isn't one because there is no other. And it hit me this
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morning, there's no other product in the world that requires a. Is so
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slow. You only get one chance a year to do it and to test
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what your philosophy is going to be about that vintage. And
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there's no product that brings people together like this product.
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Here we are traveling the world with my group, and
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it's focused on visiting places like Obaee and
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learning more about that culture. And I can't think of another
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product that feels like that. A stilo. A pen
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doesn't do that. Paper doesn't do that. A semiconductor doesn't do that. My
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iPhone, I don't gather over my iPhone, but we gather over
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wine. And I don't know if it's because it's a conduit to the
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soul or the soil or what. I think, first of
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all, wine is part of civilization.
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Everywhere you have a civilization, you will have
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wine. It's also. You're
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mentioning a stilo. It can be yogurt. It's very different
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from any industrial product, because
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even if we want to make the best wine as possible every year,
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at the end of the year, we will do only what is possible to
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do, because we are dependent from the weather. So
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nature will decide or God will decide of what
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we are able to do or not. So we just have to
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adapt permanently. And this adaptation
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makes our job fascinating, because every year is a new
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story. Every year we write a
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new history on the white page. And we learn from scratch every
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year. Our job changed
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incredibly in the last 25 years. And
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you're right. I mean, in the end, you are sharing
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this product with people who love food, who
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love art, who have many passions.
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And when you have a great wine on a table, the discussions
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are always remarkable. It's pretty amazing. And I
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thank my father for that. Exposed me to it
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young. We had a wine shop. I stocked the
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shelves. I was learning then and
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coming on a trip like this and learning more. After 35 years
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of selling wine, I still learned every time I sit down with people like you
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to understand more about what we're doing. It sounds like to me
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there's a certain humility to what you just said, because you don't get to
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decide what's going to happen because of the weather. And God gets to tell
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you what we're going to produce and you get to do the best you can
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with it. And that sort of is humbling experience, right?
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Unlike the wines we find at the supermarkets
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that are on a formula, we're going to add so much sugar, so much acid,
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we're going to make it taste like it did last year. I understand those are
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important vintages to have for people to get used to wine. But
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in this case, and in most cases, there's a certain humility
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required to do this. I love this word of
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humility, because you know where it comes from. Humility
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comes from humus in Latin, and it
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means earth. Oh, I did not know that. Wow. So. And
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all of our work is to look at our vineyards,
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look at the 90% of our work is
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outside in the field. And to make a great wine,
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you do it outside. Then you may have a beautiful cellar with
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lots of technology at the service of your terroir.
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But we all are focused on our
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ground, on our soil and our subsoil, on the
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plant which is on it. And the many, many number of
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hours of work for each plant.
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Our soil or vineyard is low, so it keeps us
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humble. And humility is really a key word for sure. It's almost like
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a privilege. It's almost a privilege to be able to
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experience that and to manage that and to become part of
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that culture. It is a privilege and
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it's a mission, because my job would be to
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transmit it to the next generation. We are at the service
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of our vineyard for a few years, few decades.
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We inherit something from the past. We have
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to take care of this
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patrimoine of all vines, and we
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plant the oldest vines into new vines
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in order that the next generation can also benefit from
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something which has been regenerated. And
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yes, it is a privilege, it's a duty, and it's
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an honor to serve a terroir like obey. Is there another
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generation? So after.
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There's always another generation. My son is
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15 years old and the Wilmers family owning it
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right now. There is the second
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generation at the head of it right now. Congratulations. That's great. I didn't have a
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generation. I have three daughters. They're beautiful daughters. And I told you about one of
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them. But the wine trade in
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California, on the Internet, we're retailers, wholesalers,
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you know, it's gotten so difficult, you know,
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managing the Internet sales, you know, 50
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regulations of 50 states. I wasn't fortunate
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enough to be able to hand it off, so I was. We got two generations
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under our belt and then it moved on to another group. But I was
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honored to be part of it and to participate in it.
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And you're right, you can't. It never leaves you
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like I'm here today because I love talking about it and hearing the
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philosophy about it. Even though I don't sell it every day anymore.
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I just love learning more and more as I can. So you just
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got done with on premiere. I think for the listeners we should. They've probably
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seen it around on the Internet, they probably saw it on LinkedIn, they probably saw
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it on Facebook or Instagram. That this idea of en premier,
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which, if you would give an explanation from the winery side of
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things, what happens during on premiere. So what
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happens is that we just showed last
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month, the last baby, the 23 vintage to
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the whole world. Everybody came and tasted and
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made its own opinion. And I think the quality
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is beautiful about this vintage. And people were.
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It gave a smile to everyone and everybody went back home
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thinking, wow, this is another great vintage of Bordeaux. How many people
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came through Obais? A few thousand. Really? Yes. In few
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days we welcome more than almost 3000 people. So that's a
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lot of people. But it's very
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energetic. You know, you get this energy and the fact that Bordeaux
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interests so many people around the world is just fascinating. And
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it was great to be able to show the level of quality of his
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vintage. And since few weeks we have the releases going on. So
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every day, a few chateau release their prize, and the consumer is
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able to buy our wines in advance
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in order to benefit from a good deal.
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Actually, the wine will be cheaper than what it will
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be when they find it in a few years on the shelves.
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And they can also choose the format they want to buy.
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So imagine you have a new baby or a
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grandchild, or if you get married and you want to get
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your wine in. Magnums, double magnums, double. Nine
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pound, 10oz. Exactly. So you can select your format.
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And that's something you should always do
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to celebrate later on.
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Sitting here is an honor for me.
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There's few women in this industry.
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I was talking to you earlier in the vineyard, about in America,
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the movement for women in wine is
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a real movement. It's got a lot of traction. They're saying that now
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25% of the graduates of enology school are
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women, but in the executive ranks, we're at seven or
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8%. And there's a strong sense of
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changing that, moving the needle for that, I was very
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honored. I had an intern
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here in my office, and her job was to write the notes for all
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the podcasts I was doing with young women. Winemakers
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inspired her to go to school. So she's at Cornell University, getting her
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eenology degree today, and I feel good about that. I'm
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happy we're able to enlighten a young person to the
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value of a glass of wine. But in France,
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is it a structured movement? Because your
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position in this company is pretty rare.
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I mean, we can find the right ones. We'll talk about a couple of the
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historical women in this business. But is it rare right now for somebody in
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your position as a female? I think it's a natural movement, and
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it's more and more women joining the industry
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in every field can be in the vineyard, can be in the cellar, it can
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be selling wine, or even managing an
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estate. So when I had this
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opportunity more than 25 years ago, it was thanks
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to the Odas of an American, Bob Willmers,
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who bought the estate to my family, and who trusted
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a young girl. But that was very new and
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very audacious at that time. And I always considered that
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to be a woman was an advantage. You are seated next to
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the most interesting guys, and then you listen
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and you learn. And today you have more
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and more women everywhere. I believe also in
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complementarity. And at Aubai,
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what is very interesting is that in the field,
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we have 50% of men, 50% of women in the
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cellar, the same, in the offices, the same. Although
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I'm against parity. I think you have jobs where men are better,
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jobs where women are better. But just by luck or
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by the belief of complementarity, we are 50 50
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everywhere in the company. Well, it's by skill set, by
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the fact that you can do the job. We don't care. We're just going to
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hire the best people for the job. You know, the woman I mentioned earlier when
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we started the show, it was a true story. She came in to sell me
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wine. I thought, this young lady's never going to make it. And she was very
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tough, still a very pleasant young lady. And we have a great
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relationship post our careers because of this work she
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did. But I thought, man, this is a dog eat dog world. And she
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tells the story about how difficult the latter
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rungs were for her career to path where she went. I mean,
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she really, really worked hard. And I truly believe the success of my
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company was partially on her back because she
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produced for me when I needed her to do. But you wrote in a previous
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interview he had the audacity to hire a girl.
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So we have to give him credit for having audacity. Right? At the same time,
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that's very american. Yes, that's true. But there are
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women throughout history. I mean, Madame Clicquot was, she was
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one sharp young woman who created a market for herself
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in the russian world of champagne in England and
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cutting edge ideas. Maileon Lanka
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song who we talked about, who was at Pichon Longueville. I mean, unbelievable
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fortitude. Do you think it takes more fortitude for a woman to
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accelerate in this industry than it does maybe in France or in England? I mean,
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compared to the United States? I think it's a
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natural movement, you know, and things are
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happening because it should happen. But
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no, I think in the history of obey,
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you had amazing women in the 18th century, and not just
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for a few years, but for 30 years. One woman was running au Bailey
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in a very sharp, really? At Obaili. Yes. And you also had
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women taking care of the vineyard during the war,
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if you're thinking of the war vintages. And
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yesterday, a great american friend
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from San Francisco brought back to obey
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a 1918 bottle that we shared
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during lunch. And that was so moving because last year of
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the first world War and the wine, 106 years old,
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Washington picking it, was alive. It was, it was
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just a bubble of incredible aromas.
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And the wine was telling a story, you know, and the bottle, which has been
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traveling the world during maybe a century, was just coming back here.
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That was quite an adventure. Also, at the beginning of the week. This
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week. That is really fun. Yeah, well, you think about that. That kind
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of goes back to the earlier conversation about, wow, what is so special about wine?
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Here? We're celebrating the homecoming, an old
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vintage. And the wine was probably made by women. Yeah. Oh, really? So
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that's. Wow. At the end of the first world War, you didn't have many men
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left. So the history of au Bailey goes back to where.
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The history of Obaili goes back to
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probably 800 years. Because we have.
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It's very difficult to find written proofs of the existence of
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vinesen before 13
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something. But we have found
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lots of written documents showing us what
384
00:23:56,108 --> 00:23:59,868
was obey from the 13th, 14th century.
385
00:24:00,004 --> 00:24:03,612
Before that, we know the vines were existing, but we don't know
386
00:24:03,636 --> 00:24:07,212
exactly to who it belonged, etcetera. So it's a
387
00:24:07,236 --> 00:24:11,076
parisian banker called Firmin Lebay, who fell
388
00:24:11,108 --> 00:24:14,716
in love with the existing vines and gave his name to the estate in
389
00:24:14,748 --> 00:24:18,348
1630. And since 1630, the estate
390
00:24:18,444 --> 00:24:21,852
stayed the same. Superficies, which is very unique in
391
00:24:21,876 --> 00:24:25,452
Bordeaux. And then you had always
392
00:24:25,556 --> 00:24:29,240
very charismatic owners, strong personalities.
393
00:24:29,980 --> 00:24:33,364
In the 18th century, you even had the mayor of Bordeaux, mister
394
00:24:33,412 --> 00:24:36,660
Laforet de Montbadon. And then came an
395
00:24:36,700 --> 00:24:40,276
incredible man called Alcide bellot de Meniere.
396
00:24:40,388 --> 00:24:44,062
He was the hero of a novel called Heirlo des
397
00:24:44,086 --> 00:24:47,742
Grandieres, and his nickname was the king of Vintners.
398
00:24:47,926 --> 00:24:51,710
And he bought a bay in 1872. He built this house, which
399
00:24:51,750 --> 00:24:55,382
is completely 19th century. And he
400
00:24:55,406 --> 00:24:58,718
plants the vineyard with his own recipe, a fil
401
00:24:58,774 --> 00:25:02,590
blend, having one 6th of Merlot, sorry,
402
00:25:02,630 --> 00:25:06,438
112 of Merlot, one 12th of Cabernet franc, one 12th of
403
00:25:06,454 --> 00:25:10,134
Petit Verdot, same thing of Carbonaire and Malbec, and
404
00:25:10,182 --> 00:25:13,930
712 of Cabernet Sauvignon. And we still have
405
00:25:15,100 --> 00:25:18,756
what he planted, 120. That's amazing. Yes. So the
406
00:25:18,828 --> 00:25:22,140
real field blend, I mean, at that time, he was probably picking at the same
407
00:25:22,180 --> 00:25:25,940
time and crushing altogether and making. It's pretty unusual these
408
00:25:25,980 --> 00:25:29,708
days. Well, no, actually, it was the way Bordeaux was doing the
409
00:25:29,764 --> 00:25:33,276
blend wines at that time, and we all forgot that, but the blend was done
410
00:25:33,308 --> 00:25:36,748
in the field. So it's actually one of the last plots around
411
00:25:36,804 --> 00:25:40,642
Bordeaux, which is still done in that way. And so
412
00:25:40,746 --> 00:25:44,482
you don't. We were talking about it outside. You now try to pick
413
00:25:44,546 --> 00:25:48,270
the varietals at different points of ripeness, so that each
414
00:25:48,690 --> 00:25:52,490
cluster is ripe depending on what grape it is. But
415
00:25:52,570 --> 00:25:56,098
there's something interesting that hit me when you were discussing that. That is,
416
00:25:56,274 --> 00:26:00,058
even though you're picking them at different times, and so it might look like it's
417
00:26:00,074 --> 00:26:03,682
just another plot. There has to be some kind of value to the idea that
418
00:26:03,706 --> 00:26:06,824
these vines are growing with each other, even though they're different
419
00:26:06,872 --> 00:26:10,568
grapes. There's an influence between them that
420
00:26:10,584 --> 00:26:14,176
would change those grapes than if they're on their own. There are
421
00:26:14,248 --> 00:26:18,088
two things, I think. The complexity it brings
422
00:26:18,184 --> 00:26:21,672
by the fact that it's planted together. And there is something
423
00:26:21,776 --> 00:26:25,616
happening which definitely brings complexity. And there is the fact
424
00:26:25,648 --> 00:26:28,976
that they are very old. And what is
425
00:26:29,008 --> 00:26:32,784
fascinating with this very old vineyard is that they are able to
426
00:26:32,832 --> 00:26:36,600
handle everything. They don't have disease. They
427
00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,472
always produce regularly. They don't produce very much, but they
428
00:26:40,496 --> 00:26:44,340
are so consistent. They are always, always
429
00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:49,500
responding. How do you say that? Delivering.
430
00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,736
So it's quite fascinating to see that those old vines have
431
00:26:53,768 --> 00:26:57,104
a strength and a power which is just
432
00:26:57,152 --> 00:27:00,972
incredible. And the wine we get from those vines
433
00:27:01,136 --> 00:27:04,964
is just so full, so complete, so intense,
434
00:27:05,132 --> 00:27:08,780
very deep. So it's the heart of our blend every
435
00:27:08,860 --> 00:27:12,060
single year. So you start with those that
436
00:27:12,100 --> 00:27:15,628
plot. How many hectares is the field blend? Four.
437
00:27:15,764 --> 00:27:19,548
So about ten acres. You start with
438
00:27:19,564 --> 00:27:23,252
that as the basic part of your cuve.
439
00:27:23,436 --> 00:27:27,134
And then you add and subtract from that to create a.
440
00:27:27,172 --> 00:27:31,002
Well, it's so intense and complex that on
441
00:27:31,026 --> 00:27:34,762
its own, it's almost too powerful. So you have to
442
00:27:34,866 --> 00:27:38,434
add, you know, and that the fascinating thing of making a blend,
443
00:27:38,562 --> 00:27:42,354
it's like being a perfumer and create something. And you take
444
00:27:42,402 --> 00:27:46,058
10% of that, which will add a little bit of lightness,
445
00:27:46,194 --> 00:27:50,018
10% of that, which will bring the floral
446
00:27:50,074 --> 00:27:53,590
aspect of the wine. And then you build it all about
447
00:27:53,890 --> 00:27:57,616
to keep the same style. And that is something which
448
00:27:57,648 --> 00:28:01,432
is very dear to obey, is that we
449
00:28:01,496 --> 00:28:04,860
never follow the fashion. We never go in
450
00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:09,000
too many different rows, but
451
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:12,780
we always try to keep our style, because
452
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:17,856
fashion change, but style lasts. Oh,
453
00:28:17,888 --> 00:28:21,224
I like that. Fashion changes, but style lasts. I'm going to write that down. I'm
454
00:28:21,232 --> 00:28:25,032
going to put that down. And that's part of the
455
00:28:25,056 --> 00:28:27,564
conversation. But before we. Before we get there, and I wrote it down so I
456
00:28:27,572 --> 00:28:30,892
don't forget this, the complexity of your wines
457
00:28:30,996 --> 00:28:34,756
is not overshadowed by the fact that the complexity of running
458
00:28:34,788 --> 00:28:38,284
this organization. In other words, we have this wonderful product. It's so romantic. We put
459
00:28:38,292 --> 00:28:41,492
it in the bottle, we share it, and we converse over. We taste the
460
00:28:41,556 --> 00:28:45,380
1918 and we fall in love again. But that takes
461
00:28:45,420 --> 00:28:48,428
a lot of work, and there's a lot of moving parts to doing this. Here
462
00:28:48,444 --> 00:28:51,124
we are in this wonderful chateau. You've got a tasting room. I saw a group
463
00:28:51,172 --> 00:28:54,936
go in. We have our tasting after this, you've got a seller. I mean,
464
00:28:54,968 --> 00:28:58,528
these are a lot of moving parts. How does one
465
00:28:58,704 --> 00:29:02,304
manage that leading to this? You said
466
00:29:02,432 --> 00:29:06,000
there was an intellectual complexity that you learned at
467
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:09,752
school that allowed you to be able to step in and do
468
00:29:09,776 --> 00:29:13,380
this role. What does that mean exactly? Well, I think
469
00:29:14,240 --> 00:29:16,140
to run a place like that,
470
00:29:18,960 --> 00:29:22,798
you need a diverse competence. You need
471
00:29:22,814 --> 00:29:25,250
to be able to understand what's going on in the field
472
00:29:26,310 --> 00:29:30,014
and also understand how the weather works. You need
473
00:29:30,062 --> 00:29:33,450
to know how to vinify wine. You need
474
00:29:35,510 --> 00:29:39,094
to have a certain charisma to lead a team and make
475
00:29:39,142 --> 00:29:42,790
them give the best of themselves every single day.
476
00:29:42,830 --> 00:29:46,398
Because the great strength of obey
477
00:29:46,494 --> 00:29:50,122
is a wonderful team working by passion,
478
00:29:50,206 --> 00:29:54,026
you know, everywhere. And I'm very, very proud of our
479
00:29:54,058 --> 00:29:57,562
team. But you also need to be able to meet people from all over the
480
00:29:57,586 --> 00:30:00,990
world. We are selling our wine in 80 different countries,
481
00:30:01,330 --> 00:30:05,122
so happy to see american friends. But we also
482
00:30:05,186 --> 00:30:08,818
have people coming from Asia, from England,
483
00:30:08,874 --> 00:30:12,698
from all over Europe. And that the fascinating thing is that we are
484
00:30:12,714 --> 00:30:16,230
able to travel and meet great people. So
485
00:30:16,930 --> 00:30:20,306
the way I'm running this company is that I
486
00:30:20,338 --> 00:30:23,580
believe in the. In the collective
487
00:30:26,680 --> 00:30:30,248
competence. And everybody brings things, and we are
488
00:30:30,304 --> 00:30:34,112
permanently analyzing what we are doing, and we
489
00:30:34,136 --> 00:30:37,856
are always doubting, how can we do better, how can
490
00:30:37,888 --> 00:30:40,900
we do, how can we go further, higher,
491
00:30:41,640 --> 00:30:45,456
faster? Because the world is changing, our environment is
492
00:30:45,488 --> 00:30:48,630
changing. And you should note, keep
493
00:30:49,050 --> 00:30:52,730
or stay on set recipes. You have to adapt
494
00:30:52,770 --> 00:30:56,370
permanently. We also believe in the japanese philosophy of
495
00:30:56,410 --> 00:31:00,106
Kaizen, you know, the permanent evolution,
496
00:31:00,298 --> 00:31:03,922
adaptation. And that's extremely important. And that the way you're
497
00:31:03,946 --> 00:31:07,770
making great wines, because if you have in mind what you're going
498
00:31:07,810 --> 00:31:11,522
to. The way you're going to cook next time with certain product, or
499
00:31:11,546 --> 00:31:15,292
the way you're going to harvest, you're wrong. Because
500
00:31:15,356 --> 00:31:18,468
things are changing around you. So you have to have a fresh
501
00:31:18,524 --> 00:31:21,480
mentality, a fresh spirit, and
502
00:31:21,780 --> 00:31:25,572
invent, create every day. That's the humility of it all, isn't that
503
00:31:25,596 --> 00:31:29,356
you have to. Your ideas of the future are already wrong before you start
504
00:31:29,388 --> 00:31:33,068
them, right? Exactly. Yes, but that's, you know, that's. You
505
00:31:33,084 --> 00:31:36,716
said very eloquently and very articulate. You articulated that
506
00:31:36,748 --> 00:31:40,356
concept very well. It's easier said than done. We have people
507
00:31:40,428 --> 00:31:43,440
involved, which is always, you know, always an issue.
508
00:31:44,060 --> 00:31:47,212
You've got the weather, you've got the. All the different pieces that are
509
00:31:47,236 --> 00:31:50,956
moving, and you have to be able to balance those. You went to
510
00:31:50,988 --> 00:31:54,372
Sorbonne, you studied nothing that dealt with
511
00:31:54,396 --> 00:31:57,960
wine. And maybe that's the value of your education
512
00:31:58,500 --> 00:32:01,724
later. I studied wine later. Yeah. So you studied
513
00:32:01,772 --> 00:32:05,540
economics, and so you have a bird's eye view of some of
514
00:32:05,580 --> 00:32:09,414
this that's going on. So this is a part of
515
00:32:09,422 --> 00:32:12,894
the wine business that frustrates me. I wish it was a
516
00:32:12,942 --> 00:32:16,598
product that transcended profit and that we only
517
00:32:16,654 --> 00:32:19,750
got to make the things that we are
518
00:32:19,830 --> 00:32:23,570
expressing exactly what we cannot express. But we are in a business.
519
00:32:24,270 --> 00:32:27,502
You know, the Ottany group out of the Rhone Valley, it's
520
00:32:27,686 --> 00:32:31,366
fine wine think tank. Nicole rollet, I think, is
521
00:32:31,398 --> 00:32:35,142
the president, and I had that conversation with them, and it's
522
00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:38,734
like the consumer has always driven the wine business.
523
00:32:38,862 --> 00:32:42,470
Let's take Madame Clicquot. She made a slightly sweeter
524
00:32:42,510 --> 00:32:45,942
cuvet for the Russians than she did for the English, that kind of thing.
525
00:32:46,126 --> 00:32:49,330
And obviously, very important. But
526
00:32:50,190 --> 00:32:53,894
when you talk about style, doesn't. Style is permanent, and fashion
527
00:32:53,942 --> 00:32:56,730
comes and goes. Are we talking about
528
00:32:57,750 --> 00:33:01,280
the. The makeup of the wine, the, let's say, the sugar
529
00:33:01,320 --> 00:33:05,056
content? Are we talking about how we market the wine when we're
530
00:33:05,088 --> 00:33:08,848
trying to evolve the business? Are we maintaining a
531
00:33:08,864 --> 00:33:12,180
very straight focus on the best wine we can make from the terroir?
532
00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:16,664
And then the innovation comes in getting it to the customer,
533
00:33:16,832 --> 00:33:20,408
or is the innovation in figuring out what the
534
00:33:20,424 --> 00:33:24,216
customer wants? I think you have to respect your
535
00:33:24,248 --> 00:33:27,972
terroir first and to give the chance to the
536
00:33:28,036 --> 00:33:31,652
terroir to express itself, because what is
537
00:33:31,756 --> 00:33:34,948
extremely important, more than anything, is the
538
00:33:35,004 --> 00:33:38,084
identity. If you lose your
539
00:33:38,132 --> 00:33:41,876
identity, you lose your customer. Why
540
00:33:41,908 --> 00:33:45,380
do people drink, obey? It's because they love the style
541
00:33:45,420 --> 00:33:49,164
of elegance. Fine tannins,
542
00:33:49,332 --> 00:33:52,600
very silky tannins, nothing aggressive.
543
00:33:52,910 --> 00:33:56,078
Something which is built to last
544
00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:59,398
forever. So the longevity of the
545
00:33:59,414 --> 00:34:03,206
wine. And if you are not true or
546
00:34:03,238 --> 00:34:06,806
respectful to your own identity, you lose
547
00:34:06,838 --> 00:34:10,326
it. You lose your customers. So it's very important
548
00:34:10,478 --> 00:34:13,770
both to respect your terroir and to keep your style.
549
00:34:14,390 --> 00:34:18,046
Wow, that's complicated. Respectively keep
550
00:34:18,078 --> 00:34:21,705
your style. So that. And I've learned this
551
00:34:21,777 --> 00:34:25,369
more. I've gotten closer to understanding this because of this
552
00:34:25,409 --> 00:34:29,081
trip only. And that is, you've got to
553
00:34:29,145 --> 00:34:32,753
keep that steady eye on what Obaee
554
00:34:32,841 --> 00:34:36,185
is and what it means to the consumer and the
555
00:34:36,217 --> 00:34:40,001
consumer. And this is my true belief in the wine business, comes to
556
00:34:40,025 --> 00:34:43,849
obeyee and learns and then understands it. Not that
557
00:34:43,889 --> 00:34:47,470
we decide to make something we think they're going to like. Yes,
558
00:34:47,510 --> 00:34:50,770
because also, we are making wine for today.
559
00:34:51,430 --> 00:34:55,150
Today, we have to make the best wine we can do today with the
560
00:34:55,190 --> 00:34:58,686
technology of today, the weather of today, with the
561
00:34:58,718 --> 00:35:02,406
terroir we cherish. But most of our wines will
562
00:35:02,438 --> 00:35:06,134
be drunk in 1015 2050
563
00:35:06,262 --> 00:35:09,686
years. So if you are
564
00:35:09,798 --> 00:35:13,396
trying to follow the taste of the consumer of today, you're wrong.
565
00:35:13,508 --> 00:35:17,260
You're completely wrong. You know, Aubai is above
566
00:35:17,340 --> 00:35:20,396
that. The top wines of Bordeaux are
567
00:35:20,508 --> 00:35:24,320
above following the consumer. We have to think
568
00:35:24,700 --> 00:35:28,348
further. And for the long term, I
569
00:35:28,364 --> 00:35:32,100
think. As such a refreshing. And
570
00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:35,916
I'm not going to say that the american wine industry is not doing
571
00:35:35,948 --> 00:35:39,280
that as well. There's certainly vineyards in Napa, Sonoma,
572
00:35:39,820 --> 00:35:43,492
central Coast, that follow that philosophy. It
573
00:35:43,516 --> 00:35:46,996
has to be. But at the same time, the most popular
574
00:35:47,068 --> 00:35:50,868
wines in the industry are these sort of formula wines. They
575
00:35:50,924 --> 00:35:54,140
follow some kind of structure of a
576
00:35:54,180 --> 00:35:57,380
palatable character, a consumer driven
577
00:35:57,460 --> 00:36:00,800
palette, and it's fine. I think we need those
578
00:36:01,700 --> 00:36:04,960
to bring people to wine that otherwise weren't drinking wine.
579
00:36:05,580 --> 00:36:09,292
But it ebbs and flows, because by. Experience,
580
00:36:09,436 --> 00:36:12,560
I know when a wine is great, it makes unanimity.
581
00:36:14,380 --> 00:36:17,040
I can tell you when you have a great wine,
582
00:36:17,900 --> 00:36:21,572
usually there is a silence around the
583
00:36:21,596 --> 00:36:25,356
table, because there is emotion. And this emotion is
584
00:36:25,388 --> 00:36:29,020
created by the fact you just did the best you can do.
585
00:36:29,180 --> 00:36:32,420
You have a great wow. You respect it. And then you deliver an amazing
586
00:36:32,460 --> 00:36:36,194
wine and it always makes unanimity. That's so
587
00:36:36,242 --> 00:36:38,990
fun. Is that. But do you think
588
00:36:39,690 --> 00:36:43,162
that part of the aristocracy of wine and
589
00:36:43,306 --> 00:36:46,642
the people, that. And it's a very important part of the
590
00:36:46,666 --> 00:36:49,666
consumerism is everybody looks at wine, particularly
591
00:36:49,818 --> 00:36:53,442
utwine, that, oh, you guys are snobs. You talk about, you
592
00:36:53,466 --> 00:36:57,122
say words that you don't. We don't understand. And I don't understand when you say
593
00:36:57,266 --> 00:37:00,870
cedar box and leather. Sometimes I think we
594
00:37:00,950 --> 00:37:04,726
propagate our own aristocracy around the wine
595
00:37:04,758 --> 00:37:07,850
industry. But on the flip side,
596
00:37:09,070 --> 00:37:12,806
that's what it's about. It's the understanding of this
597
00:37:12,838 --> 00:37:16,590
complexity and saying, wow, I may not be able to define it yet,
598
00:37:16,630 --> 00:37:20,382
but, man, I sure taste it. Yeah. I think
599
00:37:20,406 --> 00:37:23,610
what is the most important thing is, do I love it or not?
600
00:37:23,950 --> 00:37:27,316
Does it speak to me or nothing? When I'm tasting in
601
00:37:27,348 --> 00:37:30,920
1918, or at the beginning of my career, I had
602
00:37:31,300 --> 00:37:34,932
in Miami, an american collector served me in a
603
00:37:34,956 --> 00:37:38,796
blind tasting, obey 64 from Magnum.
604
00:37:38,988 --> 00:37:42,460
I didn't know what it was, but I put my nose in the glass and
605
00:37:42,500 --> 00:37:45,828
I knew I was at home. And
606
00:37:45,924 --> 00:37:49,652
then I had the feeling my great grandfather was talking to me,
607
00:37:49,676 --> 00:37:53,516
although he was already not anymore on this planet. That's really
608
00:37:53,548 --> 00:37:56,828
cool. And then I had the feeling I was transported into space.
609
00:37:56,964 --> 00:38:00,732
So it's about an emotion, and
610
00:38:00,756 --> 00:38:04,532
a great wine provides an emotion. It can just make
611
00:38:04,556 --> 00:38:08,212
you think of something you had this year. It can just provide
612
00:38:08,356 --> 00:38:12,040
a moment where you feel, wow, this is a unique moment.
613
00:38:12,540 --> 00:38:16,220
So happy to be here. My family, my friends,
614
00:38:16,380 --> 00:38:19,640
and this wine is bringing something
615
00:38:20,100 --> 00:38:23,334
more, you know, to the conversation, to the spirits of
616
00:38:23,372 --> 00:38:26,954
experiential. We were in Paris about, I think it
617
00:38:26,962 --> 00:38:30,150
was about ten years ago, and just a regular
618
00:38:30,610 --> 00:38:34,458
tourist cafe. I ordered the quiche and they put
619
00:38:34,474 --> 00:38:37,306
it in front of me, and my wife looked at me, she goes, what's wrong
620
00:38:37,338 --> 00:38:41,122
with you? I said, nothing. I said, this took me back 40 years, because my
621
00:38:41,146 --> 00:38:44,498
mother was a very good cook and she made the same Tyle quiche. And I
622
00:38:44,514 --> 00:38:48,162
just took one smell and I go, I haven't smelled this for. Since my
623
00:38:48,186 --> 00:38:51,972
childhood. And wine does that all the time, if you have a proper glass
624
00:38:51,996 --> 00:38:55,612
of wine. And we should educate young people
625
00:38:55,796 --> 00:38:59,492
to drink together, to share, to remember that when they open the
626
00:38:59,516 --> 00:39:03,316
bottle and you're not there anymore, they will think of you, because
627
00:39:03,428 --> 00:39:06,916
that the way, if you keep talking about people and
628
00:39:06,988 --> 00:39:10,108
having something in common through the
629
00:39:10,124 --> 00:39:13,740
wine, that keeps a
630
00:39:13,900 --> 00:39:17,506
memory alive. You know, I taught my son in laws about
631
00:39:17,658 --> 00:39:20,910
champagne in Obaee, and now it's costing me too much money.
632
00:39:22,450 --> 00:39:25,986
But the conversation, too, that's going on the Internet about the language of
633
00:39:26,018 --> 00:39:29,818
wine and innovation. And wine, and
634
00:39:29,834 --> 00:39:33,370
I don't mean innovation in how we manufacture, because
635
00:39:33,490 --> 00:39:36,922
everything you do here is to produce the best product you can from what you're
636
00:39:36,946 --> 00:39:40,714
given. I think the innovation they're talking about is either
637
00:39:40,762 --> 00:39:44,430
marketing or consumerism. And then the language.
638
00:39:44,470 --> 00:39:47,758
And interesting conversation with Monsieur Clouet from Cheval
639
00:39:47,774 --> 00:39:51,102
Blanc, and that was. Yeah, you know, your
640
00:39:51,166 --> 00:39:54,622
father and my father described wines differently than we do
641
00:39:54,646 --> 00:39:58,446
today. And Michael Broadbent described wines
642
00:39:58,478 --> 00:40:01,934
in his generation different than we do today. And maybe Harry Waugh. And then you
643
00:40:01,942 --> 00:40:05,770
just keep going backwards to know that
644
00:40:06,270 --> 00:40:09,886
maybe that's what they mean. Because I still have yet to understand what changing the
645
00:40:09,918 --> 00:40:13,420
language of wine means, because if we change it to something else, then
646
00:40:14,160 --> 00:40:17,860
somebody else isn't going to understand it either. So I'm not sure. Have you
647
00:40:18,440 --> 00:40:22,080
followed this or heard people talking about changing the language of wine? Yes,
648
00:40:22,120 --> 00:40:25,568
but before that, the taste of wine changed.
649
00:40:25,704 --> 00:40:29,376
Well, that's true, too. The wines my great
650
00:40:29,408 --> 00:40:33,060
grandfather did is not the wine we are doing today.
651
00:40:33,680 --> 00:40:37,496
There is always the identity of the estate, which is
652
00:40:37,528 --> 00:40:41,064
there, but we are working in a very different way.
653
00:40:41,232 --> 00:40:43,824
And I remember when my grandfather tasted
654
00:40:43,872 --> 00:40:47,440
2005, he told me, God, this is
655
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:51,056
probably the best wine we ever made. And I said, come on, you
656
00:40:51,088 --> 00:40:54,856
did beautiful vintages, like 61, 64 and so many
657
00:40:54,888 --> 00:40:58,656
others, 89, 90. And he said, yes, but nature gave
658
00:40:58,688 --> 00:41:01,960
it to us all. And today you have
659
00:41:02,000 --> 00:41:05,736
nature, but you have the way you're working with so
660
00:41:05,768 --> 00:41:08,836
much care, precision, technology that
661
00:41:09,008 --> 00:41:12,708
able, that helped you do wines which are
662
00:41:12,764 --> 00:41:16,404
just spectacular. And it is true that in Bordeaux,
663
00:41:16,492 --> 00:41:20,228
we did a series of more than 20 vintages which are just
664
00:41:20,284 --> 00:41:23,612
exceptional. So the taste of wine is also
665
00:41:23,676 --> 00:41:27,452
changing. And all
666
00:41:27,476 --> 00:41:30,700
of our jobs changed
667
00:41:30,740 --> 00:41:34,476
incredibly in the last 20 years. We just welcomed a few
668
00:41:34,508 --> 00:41:38,312
months ago, our first robot in the vines. And the new
669
00:41:38,336 --> 00:41:41,780
seller we have is a concentrate of innovation
670
00:41:42,240 --> 00:41:45,736
at the service of tradition. And you're right in
671
00:41:45,768 --> 00:41:49,560
distribution, marketing, everything. We have so
672
00:41:49,600 --> 00:41:53,392
many more ways of talking to people who love
673
00:41:53,416 --> 00:41:56,920
wine and who love our wine. It's fascinating, but it's
674
00:41:57,000 --> 00:42:00,648
at every step that things are changing, and changing
675
00:42:00,744 --> 00:42:03,740
in a very fast way. Very fast.
676
00:42:05,200 --> 00:42:08,140
Like I told you, my business relied on the Internet
677
00:42:08,760 --> 00:42:11,776
to sell wine, which we did for. My first website was
678
00:42:11,808 --> 00:42:15,608
1997. I sent 33
679
00:42:15,664 --> 00:42:19,312
million emails in 2022. So just to
680
00:42:19,336 --> 00:42:22,888
sell, and my wines were $15 to $18. They weren't expensive
681
00:42:22,944 --> 00:42:26,504
wine. And so I'm trying to figure out, when they talk about innovation,
682
00:42:26,632 --> 00:42:30,414
you're innovating on the processing side and the experiential side is we
683
00:42:30,422 --> 00:42:34,142
were almost out of time. It's unbelievable. But I'm not sure what
684
00:42:34,166 --> 00:42:37,998
they mean by innovation in that. I guess they're like, for
685
00:42:38,014 --> 00:42:41,846
instance, I don't think putting your camera on a bottle of 19 crimes
686
00:42:41,878 --> 00:42:45,406
and getting a moving character is
687
00:42:45,438 --> 00:42:49,230
innovation in the wine business. That's just sizzle marketing stuff. I mean,
688
00:42:49,270 --> 00:42:52,542
who cares about that? But the idea of
689
00:42:52,566 --> 00:42:55,902
innovation, maybe they mean what you're doing in
690
00:42:55,926 --> 00:42:59,754
the. So I'm not getting anywhere with this part of
691
00:42:59,762 --> 00:43:02,430
the conversation because I'm not sure what they mean by this,
692
00:43:03,730 --> 00:43:07,378
because I think wine is such a romantic and experiential
693
00:43:07,434 --> 00:43:10,270
product, and maybe I'll just move into that
694
00:43:11,050 --> 00:43:14,830
because of my experience on the Internet and because the Internet has created
695
00:43:15,570 --> 00:43:18,898
bargain shoppers. Now, let's say, I know I want Obaee
696
00:43:18,954 --> 00:43:22,744
2005 because of this conversation. I
697
00:43:22,752 --> 00:43:25,576
can go to the Internet and buy it, right? But that's not the experience of
698
00:43:25,608 --> 00:43:28,820
the Obaee, that's because of the price.
699
00:43:29,400 --> 00:43:33,140
But if I really. I really think the wine business is going back to
700
00:43:33,560 --> 00:43:37,232
those days. My father was the president of a Les Amis devant
701
00:43:37,296 --> 00:43:40,704
chapter in California, and they had dinners.
702
00:43:40,872 --> 00:43:44,696
They exposed the people to wine in its infancy in California
703
00:43:44,728 --> 00:43:48,432
in the seventies, when we just started, so to speak. And I really believe, from
704
00:43:48,456 --> 00:43:52,080
a marketing standpoint, what you do, which is traveling the world,
705
00:43:52,940 --> 00:43:56,708
going to the different expos? Pouring the glasses, I mean, shocking. You
706
00:43:56,724 --> 00:44:00,204
were in LA, pouring your own wines is really going
707
00:44:00,252 --> 00:44:03,716
backwards to the days of. I had this experience
708
00:44:03,868 --> 00:44:07,332
with Veronique. That's important part
709
00:44:07,356 --> 00:44:11,200
of my appreciation for the brand.
710
00:44:11,620 --> 00:44:14,996
Do you sense that? I love that,
711
00:44:15,068 --> 00:44:18,910
actually, I love to be close to people
712
00:44:19,490 --> 00:44:23,002
who will buy and drink our
713
00:44:23,026 --> 00:44:26,834
wine, because it's fabulous to be here
714
00:44:26,882 --> 00:44:30,730
at Obaya alone in your vineyard, or trying to best
715
00:44:30,770 --> 00:44:34,202
the best wine ever for the generation to
716
00:44:34,226 --> 00:44:37,970
come. But when you have the opportunity to meet the people who love
717
00:44:38,010 --> 00:44:41,370
what you're doing, to exchange about it, to
718
00:44:41,410 --> 00:44:45,072
share the passion, I think
719
00:44:45,096 --> 00:44:48,300
it's great. I love it. It's a reward.
720
00:44:49,000 --> 00:44:52,400
That's a great way to look at it. I think it's critical
721
00:44:52,440 --> 00:44:56,224
now the wine industry is in a bad place, generally, worldwide. I'm very
722
00:44:56,272 --> 00:44:59,800
happy you had a wonderful elm premier because people came
723
00:44:59,840 --> 00:45:03,264
and you experienced it. There are other wineries in this region that didn't have such
724
00:45:03,312 --> 00:45:06,896
success during the Elm premier. But in general, wine consumption is
725
00:45:06,928 --> 00:45:10,776
down. The millennials don't do it as much. The Gen Zs, nobody
726
00:45:10,808 --> 00:45:14,226
knows what they're doing, their drink. What I don't understand about those
727
00:45:14,258 --> 00:45:18,018
people is they talk about organic and biodynamic and they want fresh food and
728
00:45:18,034 --> 00:45:20,594
they go to whole foods and they go to these markets, but then they drink
729
00:45:20,642 --> 00:45:24,290
stuff like white claw, which is full of artificial ingredients and bubbly.
730
00:45:24,370 --> 00:45:26,190
You know, merd.
731
00:45:28,130 --> 00:45:31,746
The way we make wine in France is that you have a
732
00:45:31,778 --> 00:45:35,150
rule, and rule number one is that everything is forbidden.
733
00:45:36,290 --> 00:45:39,992
You can't irrigate, you can't protect your vines, you can't
734
00:45:40,056 --> 00:45:43,672
add anything in your wine. So that's a very important.
735
00:45:43,776 --> 00:45:47,264
Is that Bon de France? I mean, all the France, all over. France, we respect
736
00:45:47,352 --> 00:45:50,920
the character of the appellation de. So
737
00:45:51,040 --> 00:45:54,264
if you are not respecting it, you are declassified.
738
00:45:54,432 --> 00:45:58,096
So that's something to keep in mind. When
739
00:45:58,128 --> 00:46:01,800
you make wine tastings with wine from
740
00:46:01,840 --> 00:46:05,544
other wine regions in the world, it's a very different way
741
00:46:05,592 --> 00:46:09,306
of cultivating and producing. It's interesting that you said
742
00:46:09,338 --> 00:46:13,150
that, because this group we're with today,
743
00:46:13,490 --> 00:46:16,978
obviously, we live in California. There's very popular
744
00:46:17,034 --> 00:46:20,682
brands, and many entry level consumers
745
00:46:20,826 --> 00:46:23,590
will buy those brands because of their popularity. And
746
00:46:24,530 --> 00:46:27,786
there may be a sense of aristocracy if you have one of these
747
00:46:27,818 --> 00:46:31,510
brands. But now they're tasting structured, complex,
748
00:46:32,130 --> 00:46:35,670
terroir driven wines. Ever since we started on the right
749
00:46:35,710 --> 00:46:39,302
bank, and the comment was made last night at dinner at
750
00:46:39,326 --> 00:46:43,170
Lipop, which was, I'm starting to understand
751
00:46:43,950 --> 00:46:47,650
this idea of acid fruit, and
752
00:46:47,950 --> 00:46:51,542
sensing the terroir. And we had a wine
753
00:46:51,566 --> 00:46:55,078
yesterday at the La Lum de Pomeran, and the gentleman said,
754
00:46:55,174 --> 00:46:58,010
there's iron ore in the ground
755
00:46:58,390 --> 00:47:02,206
that's creating this character. And all of a sudden you go, bing. I get
756
00:47:02,238 --> 00:47:05,416
it now. You know, that flavor makes sense, what I'm
757
00:47:05,448 --> 00:47:09,184
tasting. So it's fascinating. But we're. Can you believe we're
758
00:47:09,192 --> 00:47:12,952
at 48 minutes already? I hope we can do
759
00:47:12,976 --> 00:47:16,656
this again. We haven't even touched on. Look, I got three pages more notes to
760
00:47:16,688 --> 00:47:20,320
go over, but it's been a fascinating time
761
00:47:20,360 --> 00:47:23,584
to sit with you and have this
762
00:47:23,752 --> 00:47:27,576
understanding of Obaee and your career and the
763
00:47:27,608 --> 00:47:31,244
things that it takes to be, I'm not going to say successful.
764
00:47:31,292 --> 00:47:34,892
To be recognized in this industry. It's not easy to
765
00:47:34,916 --> 00:47:38,500
do. Well. Thank you, Paul. I enjoyed speaking with you and
766
00:47:38,620 --> 00:47:42,364
always a pleasure to be. Cheers. Are you coming to LA soon? I know you
767
00:47:42,372 --> 00:47:46,148
got a lot of travel ahead of you, but yes, pretty. For sure in the
768
00:47:46,164 --> 00:47:49,524
coming months. I always loved LA with MMD or.
769
00:47:49,652 --> 00:47:53,196
MMD or just to show Bailee for a few
770
00:47:53,228 --> 00:47:56,660
tastings. I hope you stay in touch and we can regroup.
771
00:47:56,820 --> 00:47:59,520
With great pleasure. Cheers. Cheers.
772
00:48:08,180 --> 00:48:11,540
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul, Callum, Cary. And don't forget to
773
00:48:11,580 --> 00:48:14,740
subscribe because there's more great interviews on their way.
774
00:48:14,900 --> 00:48:18,220
Folks, have a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.