Transcript
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Carson Leno
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Fallon. Now it's
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wine talks with Paul K.
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Hey, welcome to wine talks with Paul K. And we are in studio today, about
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to have a conversation way out in Harlem with Wanda man. Introductions in just a
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moment. Wine talks, of course, available on iHeartRadio, Pandora, Spotify, wherever you
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hang out for podcasting and have a listen to claude
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Roquette. He has lived and worked on the greatest vineyards and
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areas of wine in France, but landed in Napa Valley
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working for the Smith Haute Lafitte Bordeaux house at a winery called
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Cathiard. The wines are fabulous wines, and we talk about the
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French coming to America and using the new world,
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let's call it the new world, to make wine. You start to see a great
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difference in not the quality, but the depth of the wines and the
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complexity here about that as well. I just released an
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episode with Frederick J. Ryan, the CEO of the Reagan
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foundation, but more importantly, author of the book
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White House a History, the preeminent
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authority in America on what was poured when in the White House. And all
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the history that goes with it is really quite interesting. Probably due
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for a second episode just to catch up on all things at the White
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House. But now, while we're here, we're here to talk about wine with Wanda
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man. Wanda is the east coast editor of the famed trade
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magazine Psalm Journal, as well as the tasting panel. Welcome to the
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show. Thank you for the invitation, Paul. Happy to be here.
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Well, I've been watching you online. I guess that's what we do these days, right?
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Yeah, that's true all the way. We watch everyone
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online. And you've been contributing to the wine space
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for quite a long time. And you grew up in
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New York? I'm a native New Yorker. I was born on this island
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of Manhattan, so this is my hometown. Wow. There can't be that many of you
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around. You know, people always say that. I guess
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it doesn't seem that there are, but I'm like, you know, we have all these
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hospitals and babies are being born in New York every day. But it is
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you're more likely to encounter. I'm just thinking in terms of
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the wine community in New York. There's a handful of us that I can think
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of that were born in Manhattan. But, you know, New York is where people come
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to make their dreams come true. Right? So
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not everyone's born here, but, you know, we're here. We're here. No,
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that is interesting. Part of New York is that it does have that sort of
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moniker that whether you're coming from Europe or whether you're coming
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from in America to land in New York to take your
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shot because there's such a hotbed of not only food and
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wine, but entertainment and all the rest of industry.
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Anything you want to do, New York has it. You know, I'm not sure if
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we're still the city that never sleeps. I think since lockdown, people have
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gotten a little groggier. But definitely it is a place where
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you can invent, reinvent, rejuvenate, you know, pursue
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that dream, that passion. So it's nice to know that we still have that going
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for us. Well, we miss it. Like I told you, my
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daughter lived in Harlem as a boulanger
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for a restaurant that earned a Michelin star. And now
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she's in Potsdam. You ever heard of Potsdam,
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Sarah? Where is that exactly? Well, it's not the edge of the world, but you
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can see it from there. It's as far north in New York as you can
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get. Okay. Okay. It's quite
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a. Quite different than Manhattan, actually. I would think
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so. But you ended up in college in
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California. Actually, just down the road from where I'm at today. How did that
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happen? Yes, I went to Pomona College. I'm a proud
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sage hen. That's our odd little mascot. How did
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that happen? Yes, I had no family in California. I'd
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never even really been to California until I visited Pomona
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the year that I was graduating from college, Pomona became a very
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hot school. So I actually went to high school in Massachusetts.
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I went to boarding school. And that year a lot of us applied to
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Pomona. I think it really started moving up the rankings in that time.
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And I flew out to visit in the
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deep depth of winter in New England. And I went to
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sunny Inland Empire and I said, oh,
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it's a good school. That's a bonus. I really like this weather.
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Yeah. I have to say, the sunshine
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played a major decision. But I did like the fact that it was a small
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school. There were no teaching assistants. So in
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some ways, it didn't feel so different from Andover. It was just
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much better weather there. Well, all five
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of the schools in that group are highly acclaimed
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educational institutions. So, I mean, you could have. You did very well for
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doing that. Well, why didn't you stay in California? I
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finally got home sick. I stayed a couple of years after graduation,
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but I left home at 14 to go away boarding school. And then
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I did a junior year in high school in Spain and a junior year in
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college in Spain. So I'd always been kind of a bit of a nomad.
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And I was ready to be back near, near my family, quite
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honestly, and enjoy New York. I never really
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had, you know, teenage experience in New York. I went away
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to school at 14. I would come home for break, so I wanted to
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experience my city as an adult. And good
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decision. Yeah, it's been great. It's been great.
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You know, it's interesting. New York used to be, when we were there, pre
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COVID, man, there was a wine shop, like, on every corner. I mean,
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it's one of those towns where wine is an important
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part of the culture. Certainly the restaurant, food, the hospitality side
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of New York is incredible. The hotbed of
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restaurants and Michelin stars. But there always seems to be a wine
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culture that just sort of runs itself. It just
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kind of takes care of itself. It's got wine bars, it's got wine
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shops. Did that, was that part of your, you know,
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post college lifestyle?
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To be honest, no, not really.
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I wish I could say that it was. I got into wine and very
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roundabout way. When I
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graduated, I eventually ended up working as an events planner. So I
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was working with nonprofits. I was producing red carpet galas. Took
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a few detours, and I ended up becoming the events director at the
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Princeton Club in midtown. And part of my responsibility was
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putting on the wine and spirits tastings for the members, because those
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were no brainers, they were profitable. My general
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manager was happy and got members in the club. The events always
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sold out. So I started meeting people in the industry, and at that
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point, really, my wine knowledge was, it's white, or it's red, it still,
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or it's sparkles. I really didn't know much. I was the person,
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like, do we have the tasting mats? Do we have the decanters? Are they chilled
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right? But through doing those events, I started meeting people in the
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industry. And someone invited me to have lunch one day, said, oh, you were
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so great to work with. Why don't you come one day to one of our
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events that aren't at the Princeton Club so you can enjoy the tasting?
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And that was really my first time sitting across from a winemaker that was
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probably about 2010 or eleven, and I realized there
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was this whole world I didn't know about. You know, he talked about these
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grapes like they were children, you know, throwing around these terms,
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malolactic fermentation, trellis systems. And I'm
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nodding my head and thinking, boy, I have a lot to learn. And that was
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really the catalyst. I started going to more tastings. I started buying
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books. I was already writing at that point, I had a pretty
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popular lifestyle blog and newsletter with. With
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advertisers, and I covered fashion and food and arts and
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culture, but I slowly started integrating wine content.
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And then I think it was at a time where a lot of women my
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age were at a point in our career where we wanted to know more about
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wine. Your early thirties, you're making a little more money, you're going
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to events, you're going to fancier restaurants. You want to be able
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to say something other than white wine. So as I was
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learning, I was sharing with other women especially, who wanted to know,
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what is Chardonnay? What is suncer with what is
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Vermentino? So it was just. It was kind of like the right
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moment, the right time. So I always laugh when people say, oh, you're so new
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to this. It's just when I started, there was no instagram. You
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know, it was a blog. And I used to
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do in person events for my readers. But,
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yeah, I've been kicking around for about 15 plus years now
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doing. Do you think that that is an academic
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curiosity where you sat there, or was it
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driven by your need to
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understand wine specifically or food?
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I always try to pin this down. What is this motivating factor
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that piques our curiosity at some point and we just have to learn
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more? I think it's a little bit of both. Being an
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anthropology major, I think I'm just always naturally curious about
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any type of culture that's different. So the
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wine culture is certainly something that was new and exciting, a new way
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of looking at the world. And it brought in all the issues that I was
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interested in. Culture, language, science,
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artistry, spirituality, it's all there in wine. And
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my dad was a professional chef, so I always grew up with the love of
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flavor. And so even though we spend a lot of time more
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focused on food, my dad did buy me my first bottle of wine when I
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was 16. So I think all of these things kind of combined. Like,
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wow, this is something that, yeah, it tastes good. I'm getting a little
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older, I'm appreciating more about it. But really,
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for me, yes, the wine should taste good. That's
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important. It being delicious is an important part of its appeal.
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But I think the stories are really what attracted me, just
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learning why people do this, why
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people collect, why people change careers to become
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winemakers, why people continue when they lose
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everything in a fire. You know, just what is that drive? So I
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think that's really what keeps me interested, are the stories. It's funny
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you said collected. I am not a collector. We never even. My
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business was about $15 to $20 wines after 35 years
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of doing this. And I never collected it. Never even told. I thought,
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you know, collecting wine for a financial gain was really not a good idea.
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But now, because I sold the company and the buyer wanted
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nothing to do with our seller, I've got like, I don't know,
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3000 bottles almost of some pretty cool stuff. And
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I. This mentality of collecting has settled in. I'm like, man, if I
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drink that, I'm not going to have it anymore. And that's
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like, I'm like, you shouldn't care,
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just drink it because what are you doing anyway?
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But you're an anthropology major.
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Yes. Well, look,
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I had 30,000, 30,000 cases here almost at all
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times. And so I really didn't need a seller and I really didn't need
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any. But now I have to have one. But you know, anthropology major is
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an interesting viewpoint for the wine business that, you
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know, they found that winery in Armenia 6000 years old. They found the winemaker
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shoes or maybe did they have cellar rats back then? Maybe that was
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a cellar rat shoe, we don't know.
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But there is something very historical about wine as a beverage. Was it part of
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the curriculum at all when you were in college? You know,
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not at all. I mean, Pomona, like, you know, was not a
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party school at all. I think the only wine I ever drank
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during the Pomona years was a wine cooler and some
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boone's farm.
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I was like, oh my goodness, all those years in the west coast, I never
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visited Napa, Sonoma, Central coast.
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It really was not a part of the experience. And then recently I met Chapney
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Corson, also Pomona College
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graduate. And what sparked her interest in wine was a
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wine tasting class at Pomona. And I'm like, they didn't have that when I
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was there. Well, that's so interesting. Wouldn't it be
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anthropologic? Anthropologic? Anthropologic,
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anthropological. I mean, wouldn't, wouldn't
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wine be part of that curriculum? Because it goes so far
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back. You know, I think you've given me a good
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case to go to the school and say I'd like to be an adjunct in
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the anthropology. I may have found
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a new gig, but no, we talk about anthropology
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covers linguistics, archaeology, culture.
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And I'm sure we must have talked about wine at different points, but it was
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never a focus. There were no wine classes at Pomona at
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all, so. Well, I think this is what separates wine
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from every other beverage is this historical viewpoint
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and its cultural additive to, you know,
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lifestyle. I mean, you know, they know, they know what vintages King Tut
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liked. They have to tell you something, right? There's something
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unique and ethereal about this glass, the wine. I just wrote an article that I'm
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going to post today, a short article on the
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contemporary issues with wine in the marketplace
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and how I think history has its back because
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it's not going to go away, of course. And if somebody wants to drink it
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out of a can, let them drink out of a can. But that's eventually going
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to be a non issue as well. But for you,
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you sat at this table, you tasted this wine, you heard these stories, and
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now you realize you'll never learn at all. Yeah.
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And even now, I mean, I think even if you
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talk to masters of wine and master psalms, I think that's the beauty of wine,
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is that you will never know at all. So it keeps it exciting and it's
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also very humbling. So that's why I'm always a little, I have a bit
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of trepidation when someone says you're a wine expert. I'm like, I may know
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slightly more than you just because I've immersed myself in it,
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but to call myself an expert, I
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don't feel that. I feel I'm someone who's learning. I'm passionate. I
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like to share that information. It has certainly made topics that
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I didn't have much interest in before more interesting to me.
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So I think about geology at Pomona. Rocks for jocks, we
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called it. I hated geology. Well, once you get into
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wine, you become like a soil and rock nerd, right?
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Like really riveting and exciting. Like, if
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only they had taught this through the lens of wine, I would have found it
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interesting, perhaps. So I, you know, I always regretted not going
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on to grad school. I was admitted, and then my life took a
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different direction and I decided not to go. But for me, wine has
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kind of filled that void of ongoing education. You
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know, they say that it has for me, for sure. I mean, my
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mom, if she was alive, would have gone, you know, who is this kid
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who understands, like, world geography? Like, I didn't care.
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Exactly. But that's one of the subjects that your brain
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wraps around when you start studying wine as well as, like you said, rocks and
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things. And part of that says,
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and maybe this is where this contemporary viewpoint of the wine
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industry is. And I think, and we'll talk about that a second, why I think
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it's going backwards a little bit. But is that the intimidating
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factor for your friends, let's say, who consider you an expert when
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you bring up sheast or chalk or,
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you know, granite and tap roots and all those things that,
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the buzzwords that we know but make everybody else's eyes
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spin, is that the intimidating factor for all?
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And we're going to talk about the cultural aspect of this, too. But is that
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in general, the things that people go, oh, you know, I really, I just want
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a glass of wine. I don't want to hear about it. Yeah, I think it
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can be, but it doesn't have to be because I think, you
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know, sometimes wine can feel like inside baseball, right?
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Those of us in the industry, you know, we throw around our
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vernacular and our way of speaking about wine because it's a language
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that we know. And sometimes we forget when we're talking to consumers
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and new drinkers that they're not familiar with those terms. So when you
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say, oh, yeah, it went through Mallow, oh, yeah, this wine has
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some va, and they're like, what are you talking about? Right.
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So I think, you know, I've been doing a lot of events with consumers now
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at festivals, at private clubs here in New York. And I
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think at the beginning, you just want to talk in very simple terms. They
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can understand. It shouldn't read, you know,
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like a taste sound, like a tasting note or
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a scientific description. I always tell people, I want you to leave with maybe
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three things you didn't know before. So then when you go to that cocktail
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party, for example, the number of people who don't is like,
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oh, I don't think I like Sancerre, but I like Sauvignon blanc. Well, I've
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got a surprise for you. Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc. How about
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that? Oh, I don't really like Chardonnay, but
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Chablis is great. Well, you know what? That's really
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funny. Or people who think we talk
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about all these different flavors, and I've had someone genuinely ask,
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so, like, do they add, like, when you say it tastes like
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strawberry and hibiscus and tea leaves, do they
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add that to the wine? No, they don't. But, you know, there's some
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shared chemical compounds between those fruits and
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wine. Now, you don't need to rattle off the name of all the compounds to
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show off, you know? So I think sometimes we just need to be a
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little more simple when we present it. And then for those people
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who want to know more, they'll start geeking out like I did. They'll find information
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on their own. They'll start going to more advanced tastings and
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seeking out more, you know,
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challenging experiences. But I think we do ourselves disservice when we
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say, you can only talk about wine in this way.
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I agree with that, and certainly unintentional because
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I suppose in order to describe things or to talk about it, to understand, if
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you really want to dig deeper, you're going to figure out that, yes, like, we'll
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just say the other night I had a dinner with a french winemaker who came
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to our home, young man, and no one else in the room would have
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understood this. When I told him, I said, I've got a sparkling wine here, grown
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in, you know, it was in sheath. And he goes, oh, absolutely.
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And it's not champagne. It's not an expensive bottle, but it's really good because
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he understands what that's supposed to be like, and certainly no one else in the
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room was going to know that, right? So it's unintentional that
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this vernacular occurs because you've got to study it.
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How many people do you think when you have those events with the consumers
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and you try to bring the language to a point where most
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people can understand it? How many think come away percentage wise
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with at least the idea, I'd like to take the next
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step. I'm sure this is a guess, but because most people go, hey, I went
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to this event. It's really cool. The guy was talking about this and that, and,
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you know, I still like, you know, my, my apothec red. So
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what do you think? There's a group?
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I think so, because I think the fact that they even showed up for that
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event shows that there's a virgin. Now, once in a while, you see someone whose
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partner clearly dragged them to the tasting like, honey is date night and we're going
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to a wine tasting. I had an
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experience last year in Aspen. There was a couple
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sitting front row center, and one of them
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looked miserable for the first ten minutes, like, I don't want to be at this
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event. She made me come to this tasting. So I kind
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of kept looking over at him, and I said, I think he's
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softening up a little. After two sips, we get to the
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third wine, he's nodding, he's participating. After the
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session ended, he's the first person I went to, and I said,
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am I wrong? But I had a feeling in the beginning, you don't really want
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to be here. She made you come, didn't she? He goes, yeah, but I got
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to tell you, this was really fun. I learned a
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lot. And he's like, I would do it again. Wow, that's great.
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So I think that when you make it real, if you keep it down
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to earth, that even those folks who think they're not
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interested, and sometimes it's, like I said, sometimes they
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didn't know if it's a science geek, they really cling to
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the science. Like, oh, I didn't know that. Or someone who's really into,
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who's environmentalist. And I hear about all of the sustainability
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efforts and wine. Sometimes it's a social justice perspective
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when they hear about whiny, sort of very involved in
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important social justice issues, you know, gender diversity, racial
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diversity, equity parity. So I think, you know,
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you meet people where they are. So I would like
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to think more than half the room will
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continue to go to wine tastings, will go to wine shops and step
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out of their comfort zone, because that's the main thing I tell people, we all
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have our comfort wines just like we have comfort foods. But I challenge
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you. When you go to your wine shop, don't always reach for that same bottle
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that you always get. Have a conversation, develop a good
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relationship with your wine cellar, and
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expand a bit. And you don't have to like everything. And there's nothing wrong. I
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don't care how many points it has. You're allowed not to like
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it, but understand why you don't like it. Maybe
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you like a more acidic wine. Maybe you like a less acidic wine. Maybe you
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like more complexity. Maybe you, you know, you, you like
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lots of tannin, grippy wines. Maybe you like a jammy
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wine. There's nothing wrong, but understand what you. Do and don't like,
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you know, that's a great thought. And I had a buyer here at one of
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my wine shop was open. It was dore. He was one of the
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best pallets buying pallets in Los Angeles, for sure
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of my experience. But uncannily, he was able
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to take somebody's record. Some walks into the shop
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and says, I usually buy you this. And he'd say, well, I'm going to take
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you over here to try something else. And that's a
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talent for a wine shop owner or a wine club owner,
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to be able to hear a particular style and
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then take the next step, left or right,
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north or south, as to what that person might like. And that's an important thing.
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But you said something very important. This is the part we're going to peel back
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now, and that is this experiential part of
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wine. I think the industry has been plagued
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by a couple of things, and one of them is the advent of the
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Internet and the advent of
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50 cent a liter wines coming from Europe being bottled with fancy labels
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and being sold as something more than they are,
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and the disillusion of the consumer.
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Because the story can't be when you're sitting at dinner with your friends, hey, I
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got this for $5 on the Internet.
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There was a new club started during Christmas that I watched called Vino Cheapo, for
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my God's sake. I mean, give me a break. So why would you, you know,
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why would you do that at dinner? Hey, I got this. At Vino Cheapo, you
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know? Yeah, maybe the wines are good. I don't. Well, that's a
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different story. But the point being,
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I think that wine actually is going back to, like, the seventies and
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eighties, when my dad had his wine groups and the Les Amie Devant was around
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in America. And you would go to the dinners and you would hear from the
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winemakers, and that's where you start to understand
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the differences and the history and the romanticism and why
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a glass of wine is different than any other beverage. Are you seeing
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more of that? You know, I've noticed, you know,
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when I go out to eat, I'm really impressed. When I look around the
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dining room and I see young people in their twenties and thirties
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with really good battles on the table. I think we're
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living in an age where the younger generation,
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they really care about what they eat and drink, and a great deal
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of their disposable income goes there. And I know we
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talk about, you know, they're not drinking enough. And
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part of that is, look, when you're young, you don't necessarily want to drink what
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your parents are drinking, right? And we were all young once,
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right? So it's a process. But I do notice, at least here in New York,
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I feel hopeful because I see that they're not just saying, oh, give me the
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cheapest or the second cheapest. I look, I'm like, oh, they spent more money on
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wine than we did tonight, and they're enjoying
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entertainment. So, yeah, I think
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people want to be a part of the conversation, and I think social media
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has fueled that. You know, when you see people, one of your friends
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in college who suddenly is a social media influencer, talking about wine,
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it's like, oh, I want to speak that language, too.
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So I think social media has really helped to fuel that conversation. There are some
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downsides to it as well. But I do think it has captivated
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a larger audience in a way that wasn't possible with just
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a print magazine. I think you're right. I think as
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well, probably in the magazines that you contribute to,
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a lot of articles are about the decline in sales
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for the listener. We're not talking about like this 30% drop in sales. We're talking
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a few percentage points. It's also coupled with the
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overproduction of wine and everybody jumping in to see
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if they can make a million dollars. And of course, we know how that works.
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That will add it and the advent
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of the supermarket formula wise. Now, this is an interesting problem
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that we have, and I just realized the complexity of it as we're
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talking. You walk into about Ralph's market, supermarket,
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safeway, you know, Kroger's or any of the East
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coast chains, and virtually the shelf is the same.
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Right? It's a popular. Well, the beauty of New York City is you can't
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buy wine in the supermarket. Well, that's true. That's true.
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So for me, when I, it always throws me off when
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I'm in another state and I'm like, oh, my goodness, they have
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a whole aisle of wine. I'm like, how does anyone navigate this? There's
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no one to help you. That's a really good point. I didn't
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think about that. Maybe, and I'm sure it's not the intention of the bureaucrats of
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New York, which was to actually create a system that forced
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somebody into looking at wines other than what's at the supermarket. Because there is no
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wine in the supermarket. Exactly. Even though, look, there is a lobby,
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you know, that very much wants to be able to sell wine in a
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supermarket. And of course, the wine shop and liquor store owners are
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lobbying against it, of course. But I think the wine
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shop does a much better job of creating a
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wine culture than a supermarket, which feels much more
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utilitarian. You go there for your necessities, you have your list,
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you grab what, you know, the times I've been out of state and
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I've walked through these large wine aisles, they lack
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that energy that you get in a wine shop.
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Well, there's no, there's no question. And that was a point I was going to
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make. But since you live in New York, you don't get
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to experience it like I do. But if you go to Vaughn's here at Ralph's,
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it's the same shelf, you know, there's Cali red right in the middle.
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There's menage a trois and floor stacks of Josh
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and you don't get to make a decision. In fact, I posted a picture the
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other day of the Ralph's market Cabernet
449
00:27:23,866 --> 00:27:27,658
section. Every single wine had a shelf talker.
450
00:27:27,786 --> 00:27:31,448
So it was either about the price or is about the points that got it.
451
00:27:31,546 --> 00:27:35,104
And I posted. All I wrote was, how do you make a decision?
452
00:27:36,164 --> 00:27:38,932
And it kind of goes back to what I'm talking about, which is we need
453
00:27:38,988 --> 00:27:42,484
these wine shots. We need the department manager anyway at a large
454
00:27:42,524 --> 00:27:46,292
supermarket, if they have one, to help us break out. But
455
00:27:46,308 --> 00:27:50,100
then on the flip side of this, and you probably experienced it, we
456
00:27:50,132 --> 00:27:53,876
need those wines for people that don't drink wine to come into the fray.
457
00:27:54,020 --> 00:27:57,644
Grab a bottle of an interesting label and like, have you seen the freak
458
00:27:57,684 --> 00:28:00,994
show label? They're like a carnival picture. Yes, yes. Right?
459
00:28:01,774 --> 00:28:05,182
And they grab, they go, oh, this is interesting beverage. And then they move to
460
00:28:05,198 --> 00:28:07,874
the next step. And it's sort of like you need that entry level
461
00:28:09,174 --> 00:28:12,830
conversation before you can get to the stuff that we like to talk
462
00:28:12,862 --> 00:28:16,494
about. Absolutely. I always say very few Americans
463
00:28:16,534 --> 00:28:18,874
grow up, you know, drinking
464
00:28:20,094 --> 00:28:22,950
Brunello, Bordeaux,
465
00:28:23,102 --> 00:28:26,710
Burgundy. So you know that the palate, you know, there's a
466
00:28:26,742 --> 00:28:30,416
gateway. You have your entry level wines to kind of sparked the
467
00:28:30,440 --> 00:28:33,704
excitement. That's actually a really good point. I never drank
468
00:28:33,744 --> 00:28:37,592
gin. My dad made me. I made a martini every night for him. Son, make
469
00:28:37,608 --> 00:28:40,936
me a martini, but I never drank it. And then till I was an adult,
470
00:28:41,040 --> 00:28:44,744
now I drink too much for it. So, yeah, I never understood why my dad
471
00:28:44,784 --> 00:28:48,576
liked whiskey. I'm like, oh, smells like listerine. It's horrible. But
472
00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:52,312
then once I got into wine, I started appreciating, you know, spirits
473
00:28:52,368 --> 00:28:56,184
as well. Yeah, you got to start. You got to start. That's the key
474
00:28:56,224 --> 00:28:59,468
thing. What are you hearing about non
475
00:28:59,516 --> 00:29:03,244
alcoholic? And this goes back to my romantic view of wine
476
00:29:03,404 --> 00:29:07,224
and the ethereal value of glass wine. But non alcoholic is hot.
477
00:29:07,724 --> 00:29:11,252
It is not. Sure I get it. I'm trying to figure out low alcohol, which
478
00:29:11,268 --> 00:29:14,544
I think is a better product, but
479
00:29:15,404 --> 00:29:18,944
bag in the box, all this cans.
480
00:29:19,804 --> 00:29:23,654
Had a conversation with the Cornell professor who's working
481
00:29:23,694 --> 00:29:27,206
on a food grade lining to help canned wines go
482
00:29:27,270 --> 00:29:31,006
longer. And I can only look
483
00:29:31,030 --> 00:29:34,790
at that having watched my dad's wine shop and my wine shop and everything go
484
00:29:34,822 --> 00:29:38,606
through its cycles as just blips in the consumption of
485
00:29:38,630 --> 00:29:42,302
wine since we talked about this 6000 year old winery in
486
00:29:42,318 --> 00:29:45,638
Armenia. These are just consumer
487
00:29:45,726 --> 00:29:49,254
pieces that just kind of go up and down. And really,
488
00:29:50,514 --> 00:29:53,954
I think the low alcohol, because there are definitely times that I
489
00:29:53,994 --> 00:29:57,802
prefer lower alcohol wine right and again,
490
00:29:57,858 --> 00:30:00,614
you know, being more conscious of what we're consuming.
491
00:30:01,594 --> 00:30:05,154
And I think it also allows your friends and
492
00:30:05,194 --> 00:30:08,970
colleagues who don't drink to at least still participate in the ritual with the no
493
00:30:09,002 --> 00:30:12,786
alcohol. But as I said in an interview that I
494
00:30:12,810 --> 00:30:16,530
did last year, personally, I like my wine with alcohol. To
495
00:30:16,562 --> 00:30:20,374
me, that's what a wine is. I like the alcohol.
496
00:30:21,914 --> 00:30:25,258
I don't think we should demonize it. I think there's a real movement
497
00:30:25,306 --> 00:30:29,094
now that seems to be surging
498
00:30:30,194 --> 00:30:33,666
moderation. Drink smartly, but enjoy. But I
499
00:30:33,690 --> 00:30:36,894
think, just like we shouldn't overdo sugar,
500
00:30:37,234 --> 00:30:40,770
we know that too much sugar can be bad for us. Yes, too much
501
00:30:40,802 --> 00:30:44,010
alcohol is bad. But, yeah, the no
502
00:30:44,082 --> 00:30:47,874
alcohol, I read recently, what's the chain
503
00:30:47,954 --> 00:30:51,214
of Boisson? That a lot of their stores are closing.
504
00:30:51,964 --> 00:30:55,236
They started in New York. I believe they have some on the west coast, and
505
00:30:55,260 --> 00:30:58,424
their whole model was alcohol free beverages.
506
00:30:59,844 --> 00:31:03,500
And so the cynical part of me is like, maybe people realize they were
507
00:31:03,532 --> 00:31:07,260
spending $30 for a pretty bottle of iced tea or fruit juice.
508
00:31:07,372 --> 00:31:11,212
Yeah, right. Maybe that's the problem. Well, it's
509
00:31:11,228 --> 00:31:14,624
kind of interesting you just said this, and it just hit me.
510
00:31:15,644 --> 00:31:19,406
This generation, LMNOP or Z or X or whatever we're talking
511
00:31:19,430 --> 00:31:23,118
about, and millennials as well, they were all about
512
00:31:23,206 --> 00:31:27,014
organic biodynamic. They're all about what you put in your body, but they drink white
513
00:31:27,054 --> 00:31:30,494
claw, which is kind of ironic. Exactly. But at the same
514
00:31:30,534 --> 00:31:34,286
time, for the listeners, non alcoholic wine is
515
00:31:34,430 --> 00:31:38,110
wine. And of course, it certainly has something to do with what
516
00:31:38,142 --> 00:31:40,310
you start with. It needs to be pretty good for it to end up being
517
00:31:40,342 --> 00:31:43,742
pretty good, removing the alcohol. But then they have to put
518
00:31:43,798 --> 00:31:47,532
back stuff in order to make it palatable. And so
519
00:31:47,548 --> 00:31:50,508
they put water back, and they put flavoring agents, whatever they do. And so all
520
00:31:50,516 --> 00:31:53,704
of a sudden, now, a non alcoholic winery is not really
521
00:31:54,484 --> 00:31:57,820
wine, obviously, but it's not as
522
00:31:58,012 --> 00:32:01,524
clean as maybe a biodynamic wine
523
00:32:01,564 --> 00:32:05,284
is, or an organic wine might be. And so maybe there's an
524
00:32:05,324 --> 00:32:08,104
irony between the generational
525
00:32:09,084 --> 00:32:12,872
output outlook on what you put in your body and
526
00:32:12,888 --> 00:32:15,720
the idea that we're not drinking alcohol, but what about all the crap we're putting
527
00:32:15,752 --> 00:32:17,444
back into the wine to make it palatable.
528
00:32:19,144 --> 00:32:22,856
Yeah. And again, I don't want to disparage, and a lot of people who are
529
00:32:22,880 --> 00:32:26,664
working very hard in the low nose space, as they call
530
00:32:26,704 --> 00:32:30,496
it, but I don't think, I think they
531
00:32:30,520 --> 00:32:34,232
can all coexist. Yes. Oh, that's a good one
532
00:32:34,368 --> 00:32:37,928
day when we talk about wine, traditional
533
00:32:37,976 --> 00:32:41,752
definition of wine is that it is an alcoholic beverage. Yes. And
534
00:32:41,768 --> 00:32:45,488
if you want to do something wine inspired or wine adjacent
535
00:32:45,536 --> 00:32:49,104
or a wine proxy, well and good. But I don't think
536
00:32:49,144 --> 00:32:52,720
that I would hope that the goal is that, oh, 50
537
00:32:52,792 --> 00:32:56,304
years from now, most wines will be alcohol free,
538
00:32:56,464 --> 00:33:00,112
because I think that completely changes this history, this
539
00:33:00,168 --> 00:33:03,804
narrative, this legacy. So I think we can have innovation
540
00:33:04,294 --> 00:33:08,142
because we're a diverse population and people want to try these things,
541
00:33:08,198 --> 00:33:11,870
go for it. But let's recognize wine kind of is
542
00:33:11,902 --> 00:33:15,430
the foundational drink that we're working with. And I think
543
00:33:15,462 --> 00:33:19,246
that's like the beginning of this conversation, was that these little. Little blips and
544
00:33:19,270 --> 00:33:22,942
little consumerisms, it led me to have this
545
00:33:22,998 --> 00:33:26,742
conversation in my head about most winemakers and vineyard owners that
546
00:33:26,758 --> 00:33:30,182
are not engaging this industry because they think they're going to make a billion
547
00:33:30,238 --> 00:33:33,672
dollars, will tell you that they're just passing through and they're just stewards of the
548
00:33:33,688 --> 00:33:37,320
land and stewards of the beverage. And we think about it, you know, Madame
549
00:33:37,352 --> 00:33:40,936
Clicot was making wine in the late 17 hundreds. Champagne. It's
550
00:33:41,000 --> 00:33:44,520
pretty much the same as it was, you know, the profile, the flavor
551
00:33:44,552 --> 00:33:48,240
profile might be a little different, but it's a fermented grape juice
552
00:33:48,272 --> 00:33:51,824
beverage that's got bubbles in it and it's sealed with a cork. And it's pretty
553
00:33:51,864 --> 00:33:55,632
much the same after 300 something years. Yeah, exactly. So it's kind of
554
00:33:55,648 --> 00:33:59,372
interesting, speaking of her, you
555
00:33:59,388 --> 00:34:03,172
know, she was a pioneer. She was. Had
556
00:34:03,188 --> 00:34:06,916
her back against the wall to get into this industry. But a woman who was
557
00:34:06,940 --> 00:34:09,184
a formidable businesswoman of the time
558
00:34:11,164 --> 00:34:14,836
in women and wine, it's still kind of a struggle out there. And here you
559
00:34:14,860 --> 00:34:18,064
are, an influencer and a writer.
560
00:34:18,484 --> 00:34:22,252
Have you encountered any headwinds and sexism
561
00:34:22,308 --> 00:34:26,064
in this industry? Oh, I think, you know, whenever people ask
562
00:34:26,104 --> 00:34:29,552
this, I'm like, you have to remember, wine is a microcosm of
563
00:34:29,608 --> 00:34:33,400
everything else in our society. So this idea that somehow
564
00:34:33,432 --> 00:34:36,104
the wine industry would be a utopia, Shangri la,
565
00:34:36,184 --> 00:34:39,784
Kumbaya, that all of these other problems in the world. No,
566
00:34:39,864 --> 00:34:43,448
we have the power of wine. That, you know, it's kind of
567
00:34:43,496 --> 00:34:46,044
keeping. Us safe transcends it all.
568
00:34:47,704 --> 00:34:51,310
No, it's just not true. So,
569
00:34:51,342 --> 00:34:55,142
yes, I've experienced things, you know, just as I experienced them when
570
00:34:55,158 --> 00:34:58,886
I worked in other industries, but I do see
571
00:34:58,910 --> 00:35:02,350
the progress that has been made. You know, when I first started going to wine
572
00:35:02,382 --> 00:35:05,206
tastings, 20
573
00:35:05,390 --> 00:35:08,742
1011, I was often
574
00:35:08,918 --> 00:35:12,374
definitely the youngest. Now I'm no longer the youngest person in the room, which
575
00:35:12,414 --> 00:35:15,394
is, you know, you've reached that stage like oh, I'm
576
00:35:15,694 --> 00:35:16,434
sorry.
577
00:35:20,234 --> 00:35:23,882
So I definitely. I can check that list. Okay. Not the
578
00:35:23,898 --> 00:35:27,094
youngest anymore, but I was the youngest. I was often
579
00:35:27,474 --> 00:35:31,170
the only woman and often the only person of
580
00:35:31,202 --> 00:35:34,586
color in the room. Now, when I go to tastings,
581
00:35:34,770 --> 00:35:38,210
especially in a city as diverse as New York, you think about it.
582
00:35:38,362 --> 00:35:42,114
To have events in New York that didn't reflect the diversity
583
00:35:42,154 --> 00:35:45,906
of this city, it's kind of crazy. Yeah, it is. Now I
584
00:35:45,930 --> 00:35:49,724
go to taste things, and I see different ages, different
585
00:35:49,804 --> 00:35:53,556
backgrounds. Yeah. The progress has been
586
00:35:53,580 --> 00:35:57,188
made. Now, it doesn't mean that there
587
00:35:57,236 --> 00:36:00,708
doesn't linger some of these issues that just exist in our society
588
00:36:00,796 --> 00:36:04,300
still. You know, people who want to mansplain, people who assume
589
00:36:04,332 --> 00:36:07,692
because, oh, you must only like sweet wines.
590
00:36:07,748 --> 00:36:11,588
Right? You know, people will make off. Oh, let me tell
591
00:36:11,636 --> 00:36:15,076
you about the grape and Barolo. Oh, really? Oh,
592
00:36:15,100 --> 00:36:18,348
Borrello is not the name of the great. Thank you for enlightening me.
593
00:36:18,436 --> 00:36:19,104
Yeah,
594
00:36:22,124 --> 00:36:25,780
well, that's. Yeah, it exists for sure. It
595
00:36:25,812 --> 00:36:29,532
exists for sure. So the question, because I was at the AAA, and
596
00:36:29,548 --> 00:36:33,196
for the AAAV, for the listeners, it's the association of
597
00:36:33,220 --> 00:36:37,052
African American Vendors event in Napa. And I think there
598
00:36:37,068 --> 00:36:40,572
were 22 or 25 tables. I tasted every wine that was there. Oh,
599
00:36:40,588 --> 00:36:44,230
wow. And they were fabulous. You know, the whole lineup was amazing.
600
00:36:44,302 --> 00:36:48,070
Right. And I've had a lot of conversations with folks
601
00:36:48,102 --> 00:36:51,838
from there. I had a conversation with Dwayne Wade's operative, George
602
00:36:51,886 --> 00:36:55,622
Walker. George. Yay. George is fabulous. Yeah. And we had
603
00:36:55,638 --> 00:36:59,102
a great conversation. Yeah. It's an
604
00:36:59,118 --> 00:37:02,366
intimidating subject, and I wonder if that's not the root of
605
00:37:02,550 --> 00:37:05,434
why people of color, women,
606
00:37:06,694 --> 00:37:10,242
LGBTQ community hasn't been involved. Because on
607
00:37:10,258 --> 00:37:14,106
the outside looking in, it's kind of intimidating. We talked about it a little
608
00:37:14,130 --> 00:37:17,826
bit before, rather than an exclusive, you know,
609
00:37:17,850 --> 00:37:21,626
an attempt to keep people out. I don't think that was really the
610
00:37:21,650 --> 00:37:25,374
case, but I think it's just an intimidating subject. And
611
00:37:25,674 --> 00:37:29,522
barrier exists. Yeah, intimidation definitely can be
612
00:37:29,538 --> 00:37:32,938
a factor. And how much of a fact, I think, varies from
613
00:37:32,986 --> 00:37:36,670
individual to individual. So I think, yes,
614
00:37:36,702 --> 00:37:40,114
there are trends that we see that impact groups,
615
00:37:40,494 --> 00:37:44,194
but always say we have to keep the individual in mind. So,
616
00:37:45,174 --> 00:37:48,982
yes, I did notice there were people coming up at
617
00:37:48,998 --> 00:37:52,790
the same time as me that I saw kind of drop out and always
618
00:37:52,862 --> 00:37:56,558
wonder why they faded away. Did they get tired of being the only
619
00:37:56,606 --> 00:38:00,294
one in the room feeling like they weren't being heard or seen? Whereas my
620
00:38:00,334 --> 00:38:04,010
nature is I just keep showing up. I'm a little bit stubborn that way. Like,
621
00:38:04,042 --> 00:38:07,858
I'm not going to let that deter me. So I think it is important
622
00:38:07,986 --> 00:38:11,330
to always say it's not enough to give people a seat at the
623
00:38:11,362 --> 00:38:15,090
table. You have to respect their presence and let their voice be
624
00:38:15,122 --> 00:38:18,810
heard. So I think there was a tendency in the beginning like,
625
00:38:18,842 --> 00:38:20,934
oh, well, more people are coming. That's great.
626
00:38:22,074 --> 00:38:24,654
But are they feeling welcome?
627
00:38:25,914 --> 00:38:29,578
Good point. So, and how do we do that without pandering?
628
00:38:29,666 --> 00:38:32,410
How do we do that in a respectful way? And I'm not saying I have
629
00:38:32,442 --> 00:38:36,120
all the answers, and there's certainly a learning curve, but I think
630
00:38:36,152 --> 00:38:40,000
if a true intent is there, people sense it. And I
631
00:38:40,032 --> 00:38:43,736
can tell the difference. When someone is inviting me, like,
632
00:38:43,760 --> 00:38:47,416
oh, Wanda, we know you've been to Italy. Wow. At least 20 times.
633
00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:51,072
You've written so much about Italy. We want to tap into you for your expertise
634
00:38:51,128 --> 00:38:54,312
there, as opposed to, oh, we need a black woman in the
635
00:38:54,328 --> 00:38:58,160
lineup. You sense the difference. I'm very sensitive to
636
00:38:58,192 --> 00:39:01,984
that because I don't believe in tokenism. I don't like feeling like I'm being
637
00:39:02,024 --> 00:39:05,814
pandered to. But you also have to create
638
00:39:06,114 --> 00:39:09,014
a pipeline for people to get the experience
639
00:39:09,674 --> 00:39:13,306
and the education. So it's great to see the scholarship programs that
640
00:39:13,330 --> 00:39:17,090
exist now. It's important to show that there's so many
641
00:39:17,122 --> 00:39:20,242
other careers and wine. You don't have to be a writer or a
642
00:39:20,258 --> 00:39:23,714
winemaker. You can work for an importer if you have a
643
00:39:23,754 --> 00:39:27,042
legal interest. You can use your law degree to work in the wine
644
00:39:27,098 --> 00:39:30,874
industry, be a publicist, be a copywriter, work in
645
00:39:30,914 --> 00:39:34,686
marketing. So I think there's so many other areas that aren't
646
00:39:34,710 --> 00:39:38,510
as visible that would benefit from more diversity across the board
647
00:39:38,622 --> 00:39:41,926
in terms of age, race, gender, all of
648
00:39:41,950 --> 00:39:44,794
it. You know, that's a fascinating point.
649
00:39:45,534 --> 00:39:49,326
There are so many angles to this industry and to do. And I
650
00:39:49,350 --> 00:39:53,070
spent, like I said, there are already 35 years buying wine and bought a lot.
651
00:39:53,262 --> 00:39:57,070
I think I sold 17 million bottles. But I have
652
00:39:57,102 --> 00:40:00,884
gotten all that traction all those years. Doesn't
653
00:40:00,924 --> 00:40:04,716
compare to the exposure I've gotten through this
654
00:40:04,780 --> 00:40:08,228
podcast, which was generated just because I kept hearing great
655
00:40:08,276 --> 00:40:11,716
stories here in the shop. I decided to put a microphone in front of the
656
00:40:11,740 --> 00:40:15,180
stories, but traveling the world, and I was telling this to Angela McCrae the other
657
00:40:15,212 --> 00:40:18,908
day on the podcast. I said, you know, you're in the
658
00:40:18,916 --> 00:40:22,304
beginning of a career here, and you are going to find that
659
00:40:22,804 --> 00:40:26,424
the welcoming arms around anywhere you go in the world
660
00:40:27,184 --> 00:40:30,800
that you are participating in this industry and the way you are, in her
661
00:40:30,832 --> 00:40:34,384
case, with the AAAV that you're going to be, you're going to have an
662
00:40:34,424 --> 00:40:37,912
amazing experience. Like you just said, you can go to Italy
663
00:40:37,968 --> 00:40:41,792
and represent yourself, and you're like, it's a whole community and a
664
00:40:41,808 --> 00:40:45,400
whole fraternity. And, I think, irrelevant of your
665
00:40:45,432 --> 00:40:49,204
race or your sexual orientation or your sex.
666
00:40:50,184 --> 00:40:53,982
It's worldwide recognition that we're on the
667
00:40:53,998 --> 00:40:57,094
same page, or we try to be. On the same page, you know? It's so
668
00:40:57,134 --> 00:41:00,982
true. And I sometimes feel very corny because I feel like I say it
669
00:41:00,998 --> 00:41:04,230
at every press trip that I'm on, but I'll look around the
670
00:41:04,262 --> 00:41:08,030
table, and I'm like, how else would this have happened?
671
00:41:08,062 --> 00:41:11,854
That me, you know, humble background from
672
00:41:11,894 --> 00:41:15,454
New York, first in my family to go to college. I'm
673
00:41:15,494 --> 00:41:19,118
sitting with someone who has a title, whose family's been making
674
00:41:19,166 --> 00:41:22,806
wine for 400 years, someone who's a mayor, someone who's a
675
00:41:22,830 --> 00:41:26,274
dignitary. I was like, we would never have met
676
00:41:27,014 --> 00:41:30,574
with if not for wine. And not only not are we
677
00:41:30,614 --> 00:41:34,086
meeting, we're enjoying each other's company. This is the ultimate
678
00:41:34,150 --> 00:41:37,590
icebreaker, because we all have this passion, and it lets the
679
00:41:37,622 --> 00:41:41,406
walls down. It's almost like we give someone the benefit of
680
00:41:41,430 --> 00:41:44,594
the doubt. Now, look, there's some jerks and wine, too, but in general,
681
00:41:46,294 --> 00:41:50,094
you're a wine person, okay? We can have a conversation, and then if, you
682
00:41:50,134 --> 00:41:53,846
know, it's, you know, it kind of opens the door. And that's what I
683
00:41:53,870 --> 00:41:57,478
really love about it, that people that I
684
00:41:57,526 --> 00:42:01,014
never would have encountered, you know, are in my circle now and in my
685
00:42:01,054 --> 00:42:04,390
corner and have really been great allies and
686
00:42:04,422 --> 00:42:08,006
supporters because we have this shared passion, and I think they
687
00:42:08,110 --> 00:42:11,598
see how much I love it. You know, you can't think of any other
688
00:42:11,646 --> 00:42:15,022
industry, and this is more for the benefit of the
689
00:42:15,038 --> 00:42:18,718
listeners. But that that occurs in, like, if you make
690
00:42:18,766 --> 00:42:22,324
widgets or semiconductors or if you make lawn furniture,
691
00:42:22,744 --> 00:42:26,496
nobody cares. If you go to the manufacturing section of Paris
692
00:42:26,680 --> 00:42:30,248
and have a conversation with a lawn furniture maker, the man you show up in
693
00:42:30,256 --> 00:42:33,800
the wine trade, and that
694
00:42:33,832 --> 00:42:37,080
conversation is in recognition, and acceptance is
695
00:42:37,112 --> 00:42:40,840
immediate. And I think that bodes
696
00:42:40,872 --> 00:42:44,640
well for the industry when it comes to BIPOC and LBGQ
697
00:42:44,792 --> 00:42:48,404
community and different sexes, in that
698
00:42:49,124 --> 00:42:52,524
it really eventually has no
699
00:42:52,564 --> 00:42:56,148
barriers. It's just making people aware of
700
00:42:56,276 --> 00:43:00,052
that they did exist. And I say this because I had
701
00:43:00,068 --> 00:43:03,748
a conversation with Elizabeth Taigny of Cornell Vineyards
702
00:43:03,836 --> 00:43:07,476
in Spring Mountain and a very strong
703
00:43:07,540 --> 00:43:11,144
woman and a very good winemaker, and she
704
00:43:11,844 --> 00:43:15,476
almost was offended when I asked the same question. I just asked you about
705
00:43:15,540 --> 00:43:19,264
women in wine. And she goes, why does it even enter the conversation?
706
00:43:19,964 --> 00:43:23,772
Why do I have to have that conversation? I just make good wine.
707
00:43:23,828 --> 00:43:27,676
I go, you're right. Yeah, no, I get that.
708
00:43:27,780 --> 00:43:31,384
And it's. Sometimes I'll see a headline,
709
00:43:31,724 --> 00:43:35,396
let's black woman wine writer. It's like, well, why
710
00:43:35,420 --> 00:43:38,956
can't it just be wine writer? But I
711
00:43:38,980 --> 00:43:42,740
get it's important to acknowledge people
712
00:43:42,812 --> 00:43:46,440
who break barriers, and it's
713
00:43:46,472 --> 00:43:50,120
hopeful to think that we reach a point where it's so diverse that you
714
00:43:50,152 --> 00:43:53,744
don't have to call it out anymore. Correct? Not quite sure we're there
715
00:43:53,784 --> 00:43:57,632
yet. I was on a panel last year and this question came
716
00:43:57,688 --> 00:44:01,312
up. It was a women and wine symposium. Like, do we still
717
00:44:01,368 --> 00:44:04,880
need these events in these organizations? I
718
00:44:04,912 --> 00:44:08,520
said, the reality is, as far as we've come, women are still making
719
00:44:08,632 --> 00:44:12,474
around eighty seven cents to the dollar compared
720
00:44:12,514 --> 00:44:16,282
to what men make. Era, which they've been talking about since I
721
00:44:16,298 --> 00:44:20,138
was a little girl hasn't passed. But I haven't heard that acronym in a long
722
00:44:20,186 --> 00:44:23,922
time. Yeah, but it's true. And there's still people still working
723
00:44:24,018 --> 00:44:27,674
on that. So there are still issues, you know, when we
724
00:44:27,714 --> 00:44:30,962
look at healthcare, when we look at socioeconomic
725
00:44:31,018 --> 00:44:34,746
issues, you know, some of us are doing really well and we feel like,
726
00:44:34,770 --> 00:44:38,312
hey, I've made it. And maybe your little
727
00:44:38,368 --> 00:44:42,084
circle of friends is doing really well. But when you look at the statistics,
728
00:44:43,664 --> 00:44:47,464
women are still, you know, not getting our fair
729
00:44:47,504 --> 00:44:51,288
share of the pie sometimes. So I think it's important to
730
00:44:51,456 --> 00:44:55,032
not say, okay, we're done. So I think that's why it's
731
00:44:55,048 --> 00:44:58,804
important, and I think it's important for people who feel marginalized,
732
00:44:59,144 --> 00:45:02,668
you know, for women to get together. I'm the immediate
733
00:45:02,716 --> 00:45:05,988
past president of La Dame Descoffier. You know, we
734
00:45:06,036 --> 00:45:09,644
have 44, 45 chapters around the
735
00:45:09,684 --> 00:45:12,944
world of women in wine, food and hospitality.
736
00:45:13,564 --> 00:45:16,924
And, you know, I think it's important for women to have these
737
00:45:16,964 --> 00:45:20,140
communities where they feel like not only they can
738
00:45:20,332 --> 00:45:24,124
dis a bit, but have a support system, benefit from the
739
00:45:24,164 --> 00:45:27,132
knowledge of those who've gone before you. How did you navigate these
740
00:45:27,188 --> 00:45:30,496
challenges to hear from people who have been there before? You know
741
00:45:30,520 --> 00:45:34,352
what? I have seen change, so we have to keep at it. But
742
00:45:34,408 --> 00:45:38,080
we're not done. We're not done. But I get what she's saying. You don't want
743
00:45:38,112 --> 00:45:41,960
the fact that you're a woman or a black person, an asian, Latino, to always
744
00:45:41,992 --> 00:45:45,084
be the leading headline, because
745
00:45:46,824 --> 00:45:50,124
I think it's a delicate balance. It's a delicate balance.
746
00:45:50,784 --> 00:45:53,768
There may not be an endgame to that. Maybe it's just
747
00:45:53,816 --> 00:45:57,070
humanity, you know, and it's just the viewpoint of humanity,
748
00:45:57,142 --> 00:46:00,830
humans that you're not going to change the DNA, and you
749
00:46:00,902 --> 00:46:04,074
need to raise that flag all the time.
750
00:46:04,814 --> 00:46:08,366
When I was. When I reached out to the AAV in
751
00:46:08,390 --> 00:46:12,126
2000, I can't remember what social upheaval there was, but it was
752
00:46:12,150 --> 00:46:15,430
early, two thousands. And I wanted to see if I could
753
00:46:15,462 --> 00:46:18,774
feature black owned winery wine in my
754
00:46:18,814 --> 00:46:22,628
club. And I found the association that just
755
00:46:22,676 --> 00:46:26,452
started, I guess, because it was like 2004, 2006 or something, and there
756
00:46:26,468 --> 00:46:30,060
were like five members, I mean, literally like five members that were making wines,
757
00:46:30,092 --> 00:46:33,464
and none of them made enough wine for my club selection.
758
00:46:33,884 --> 00:46:37,340
So then when I recontacted Angela
759
00:46:37,532 --> 00:46:40,756
for the show, and now there's 200 members of the
760
00:46:40,780 --> 00:46:44,340
association, and, you know, there should be more than that. And
761
00:46:44,452 --> 00:46:47,502
when I brought it up with my friends or other people in the community, the
762
00:46:47,518 --> 00:46:50,142
wine community, they're like, I didn't know that even existed. I didn't know that was
763
00:46:50,158 --> 00:46:53,234
a thing, you know, that there was such an association.
764
00:46:53,654 --> 00:46:57,430
And. But I think the prevailing theme when I was talking to everybody,
765
00:46:57,462 --> 00:47:01,294
there was like, we know that we're. We're
766
00:47:01,334 --> 00:47:05,126
representing ourselves as a black winery, but we'd prefer just to represent
767
00:47:05,190 --> 00:47:08,830
ourselves as a winery when the time comes to do it, because we make really
768
00:47:08,862 --> 00:47:12,358
good wine and we make. There's a wide
769
00:47:12,446 --> 00:47:15,674
range of quality. Not quality, wide range of styles
770
00:47:16,044 --> 00:47:18,744
from Virginia to Napa.
771
00:47:19,764 --> 00:47:23,224
There was. There was a woman there. I couldn't believe this.
772
00:47:23,524 --> 00:47:26,384
And it's actually pretty good. But she makes
773
00:47:27,404 --> 00:47:30,308
a method champagne canned
774
00:47:30,476 --> 00:47:34,292
sparkler. Interesting. And so if
775
00:47:34,308 --> 00:47:37,996
you, if you take the next thought, like, okay, how you disgorge it, and she
776
00:47:38,020 --> 00:47:41,732
goes, I don't. I'm
777
00:47:41,748 --> 00:47:45,494
like, whoa, okay, so whatever. But it's really, it's really
778
00:47:45,534 --> 00:47:49,350
quite good. But anyway, the point being, we know we
779
00:47:49,382 --> 00:47:53,222
should continue to wave the flags and
780
00:47:53,278 --> 00:47:56,958
present the thing, but not, like you said, the leading element of
781
00:47:57,006 --> 00:48:00,454
that conversation, it should be, oh, by the way, this is a black owned winery,
782
00:48:00,494 --> 00:48:03,166
or this is a chinese owned winery, or this is a women owned winery or
783
00:48:03,190 --> 00:48:06,710
women winemaker. So that the
784
00:48:06,742 --> 00:48:10,442
recognition exists, but you really want them to swirl that glass and
785
00:48:10,458 --> 00:48:13,938
go, wow, this is really good. Exactly. You know, just, I want my
786
00:48:13,986 --> 00:48:17,482
writing to speak for itself. When I give a presentation and
787
00:48:17,498 --> 00:48:21,050
look, you know, I think every person of color knows that
788
00:48:21,082 --> 00:48:24,474
look, I've experienced it. You know, when I walk to the front of the room,
789
00:48:24,514 --> 00:48:28,290
like, hey, welcome to the event. Like, oh, you're the presenter. Yo,
790
00:48:28,322 --> 00:48:30,254
girl, that looks kidding.
791
00:48:32,754 --> 00:48:36,170
But at the end of it, I wouldn't say, well, she was a great presenter.
792
00:48:36,202 --> 00:48:39,494
Like, oh, she was a great black wide presenter. Yeah.
793
00:48:40,514 --> 00:48:44,330
You know, and it's complicated. Look, our history is so young. You know,
794
00:48:44,482 --> 00:48:48,114
it wasn't that long ago that my mom was a little girl in Georgia
795
00:48:48,154 --> 00:48:51,890
attending segregated schools. So the past is never
796
00:48:51,922 --> 00:48:55,442
really the past, to quote Faulkner. Right. And this is our very recent
797
00:48:55,538 --> 00:48:59,034
history still. And like I said, we have a long way to
798
00:48:59,074 --> 00:49:02,438
go. And these organizations like AAA are important
799
00:49:02,526 --> 00:49:05,926
because the fact that it went from nine to now, 200
800
00:49:05,990 --> 00:49:09,766
producers shows that by creating a structure where
801
00:49:09,790 --> 00:49:13,126
people can learn from each other, learn how to navigate from a
802
00:49:13,150 --> 00:49:16,434
supportive group, to help eliminate some of those roadblocks,
803
00:49:17,134 --> 00:49:20,446
it's important to have that. I think you're right. We're not a
804
00:49:20,470 --> 00:49:23,902
monolith. So you have to balance that group support with
805
00:49:24,078 --> 00:49:27,724
being able to be your individual self. And that's what I try to do.
806
00:49:27,854 --> 00:49:31,680
Where was your father a chef? Oh, you know, it's filled.
807
00:49:31,712 --> 00:49:35,216
My dad, had he. He came too soon, because he would have been a television
808
00:49:35,280 --> 00:49:39,128
personality for sure. You got 10% of
809
00:49:39,136 --> 00:49:42,840
it. You're. You know,
810
00:49:42,872 --> 00:49:46,444
my dad's story was really interesting. He grew up in rural North Carolina,
811
00:49:47,264 --> 00:49:50,888
moved to New York as a teenager, went to Brandeis
812
00:49:50,936 --> 00:49:53,324
High School on the Upper west side. That's where.
813
00:49:54,134 --> 00:49:57,870
Yeah. And let's say, unlike me, my
814
00:49:57,902 --> 00:50:01,470
dad was not that into school. He was always cutting class,
815
00:50:01,582 --> 00:50:04,234
and his favorite thing to do is hang out at the
816
00:50:04,894 --> 00:50:08,314
library at Lincoln center and listen to old jazz albums.
817
00:50:09,134 --> 00:50:12,966
And there was a man in the neighborhood who was a chef. And one
818
00:50:12,990 --> 00:50:16,486
day he said to my dad, like, come here. I see you all the time.
819
00:50:16,590 --> 00:50:20,194
You don't seem like a bad kid. What are you doing? And
820
00:50:20,314 --> 00:50:24,122
he said to my dad, since you're not going to school anyway, I
821
00:50:24,138 --> 00:50:27,186
think, I don't remember if it was a week or two weeks. But anyway, he
822
00:50:27,210 --> 00:50:30,414
took my dad into the restaurant, and
823
00:50:30,754 --> 00:50:34,370
basically my dad apprenticed and discovered that he really
824
00:50:34,442 --> 00:50:38,154
loved being in the kitchen and he was good at it. So he never
825
00:50:38,194 --> 00:50:41,786
went to culinary school, but he worked his way up. And, you
826
00:50:41,810 --> 00:50:44,802
know, my favorite story is when he cooked for his fun day. And I was
827
00:50:44,818 --> 00:50:47,956
like, oh, dad, this video, beef stew is so good. He's like, that is Bouffe
828
00:50:47,980 --> 00:50:51,620
Bourguignon. So he really
829
00:50:51,692 --> 00:50:55,364
was a student of french classical cuisine.
830
00:50:55,484 --> 00:50:59,084
That was the foundation. But I always said I had the best of both
831
00:50:59,124 --> 00:51:02,564
worlds. He made the best north Carolina pulled pork
832
00:51:02,604 --> 00:51:06,420
barbecue I've ever had in my life. That's true. He also introduced me to Boeuf
833
00:51:06,452 --> 00:51:09,664
Bourguignon and Pate and wine.
834
00:51:11,124 --> 00:51:14,840
Yeah. He didn't work at any well known restaurants, most of them are
835
00:51:14,872 --> 00:51:18,320
probably Kohl's now, you know, the nature of it in New York, but that's how
836
00:51:18,352 --> 00:51:22,104
he supported us. You know, that's a very french thing to do,
837
00:51:22,144 --> 00:51:25,656
which is, you know, they kind of have to declare at some point we're not
838
00:51:25,680 --> 00:51:28,496
going to go to college. We're going to either be a chef. I just got
839
00:51:28,520 --> 00:51:32,256
done with a podcast with Frederick Caston, who's exactly the same story, except
840
00:51:32,280 --> 00:51:36,032
in Avignon instead of New York. But basically, you know, in the
841
00:51:36,048 --> 00:51:39,604
wine industry, it's like that, too. You can sell her out your way to
842
00:51:40,424 --> 00:51:44,166
being the winemaker, or you can go through, you know, Cornell
843
00:51:44,230 --> 00:51:47,554
White school or UC Davis and figure that out. But
844
00:51:48,854 --> 00:51:52,670
what would he say about the kitchen environment? Was it less
845
00:51:52,822 --> 00:51:55,594
racist? Was it more accepting?
846
00:51:56,294 --> 00:51:59,354
Oh, interesting. I mean, I think definitely,
847
00:52:00,694 --> 00:52:04,502
you know, at that time, I know he definitely had experiences.
848
00:52:04,598 --> 00:52:08,366
I've heard about them. I think,
849
00:52:08,430 --> 00:52:11,430
you know, I must have inherited this from him. Like, it's not going to keep
850
00:52:11,462 --> 00:52:15,086
me from doing a thing I love and I think I'm pretty good at, and
851
00:52:15,110 --> 00:52:17,994
I want to keep getting better. So he kept showing up,
852
00:52:18,934 --> 00:52:21,830
but I know he had challenges. And I said to him, I said, dad, you're
853
00:52:21,862 --> 00:52:25,102
so mean in the kitchen. Like, when I would go visit him at work. But
854
00:52:25,198 --> 00:52:28,230
I think he never wanted. He wanted to have that
855
00:52:28,262 --> 00:52:31,534
authority. It was important for he was
856
00:52:31,574 --> 00:52:35,142
running that. He was running the kitchen. And
857
00:52:35,238 --> 00:52:38,754
sometimes the people, most of the people that he supervised
858
00:52:39,134 --> 00:52:42,902
weren't black. Right. So was a diverse crew in the
859
00:52:42,918 --> 00:52:46,606
kitchen. So he wanted. It was very important for him to have
860
00:52:46,630 --> 00:52:50,302
that presence of, I'm not your best friend.
861
00:52:50,398 --> 00:52:54,006
I'm the leader. And for many people, that might have been the first time
862
00:52:54,070 --> 00:52:57,902
they encountered a person of color who was the authority figure.
863
00:52:58,078 --> 00:53:01,634
Right. I can see that. And now it's much more common.
864
00:53:02,534 --> 00:53:06,022
But when he was doing it, not so much. Well, you think about it, the
865
00:53:06,038 --> 00:53:09,766
kitchen environment, like I said, my daughter was a. Worked at the
866
00:53:09,790 --> 00:53:13,034
Lincoln restaurant. You know, almost every chef
867
00:53:14,254 --> 00:53:17,846
that's celebrated today in their heyday was like
868
00:53:17,870 --> 00:53:21,566
that. You had to, because think about the line chef, the sous
869
00:53:21,590 --> 00:53:24,754
chef, the line cook, the saucier. These people
870
00:53:25,254 --> 00:53:28,990
most probably don't give a crap about anything, right? And so if you let them
871
00:53:29,062 --> 00:53:32,894
to their own, to their own leading, you're going to end up with
872
00:53:33,014 --> 00:53:36,678
a poor product. And so it takes an authoritative figure
873
00:53:36,766 --> 00:53:40,606
to manhandle the kitchen to make sure it comes out
874
00:53:40,630 --> 00:53:44,294
the way the leader wants it to come out, because once that plate
875
00:53:44,334 --> 00:53:47,630
leaves the kitchen, it's a representation of that
876
00:53:47,662 --> 00:53:51,446
person. How much his
877
00:53:51,510 --> 00:53:55,046
team respected him. Right. You know, so.
878
00:53:55,150 --> 00:53:58,734
Yeah, but definitely, I think you're right. I inherited a lot of that. I just
879
00:53:58,774 --> 00:54:02,282
use it in wine. My cooking is decent, but. Well, but you're
880
00:54:02,338 --> 00:54:06,082
Ladame d'Escoffier. I mean, the father of
881
00:54:06,098 --> 00:54:09,626
french food. Your dad had to be proud of that, you know? So.
882
00:54:09,770 --> 00:54:13,346
Yes, for sure. For sure. I
883
00:54:13,370 --> 00:54:17,018
find the wine trade very similar to the
884
00:54:17,066 --> 00:54:20,826
hospital food trade because it is hospitality. When it's all said
885
00:54:20,850 --> 00:54:24,050
and done, we try to put out a product that people are going to appreciate
886
00:54:24,162 --> 00:54:27,666
and bring people together that they talk about. And that's the one thing about wine
887
00:54:27,690 --> 00:54:31,304
that's such a fascinating. I'm sure it's with you,
888
00:54:31,384 --> 00:54:35,232
whether you're sitting at dinner with your best friends who understand a little bit
889
00:54:35,248 --> 00:54:38,324
about wine because you've been hanging around them for a while or
890
00:54:38,784 --> 00:54:42,272
somebody you've never met before, but the conversation
891
00:54:42,368 --> 00:54:46,112
always comes to what's in that glass. Yeah.
892
00:54:46,208 --> 00:54:49,672
And then they like to throw out something that they learned that they know, and
893
00:54:49,688 --> 00:54:53,432
all of a sudden, this unintimidating, unthreatening conversation
894
00:54:53,488 --> 00:54:56,988
of wine happens. And I love
895
00:54:57,036 --> 00:55:00,364
that. Yeah. And I try not to be like the know it
896
00:55:00,404 --> 00:55:03,980
all. Cause I'm not. But I like to move the
897
00:55:04,012 --> 00:55:07,828
conversation forward because it's. It really is. It's not political. You
898
00:55:07,836 --> 00:55:11,652
don't have to worry about, you know, offending anybody about making, you know,
899
00:55:11,708 --> 00:55:15,064
disparaging comments. You can just talk about it.
900
00:55:15,924 --> 00:55:19,716
Yeah. I think as human beings, you know, we're drawn to ritual as well.
901
00:55:19,780 --> 00:55:23,184
Right. And everyone is so busy, more of us are working from home.
902
00:55:23,634 --> 00:55:27,234
So the ritual of sitting at a table, sharing a bottle
903
00:55:27,354 --> 00:55:30,922
is something that I think is primal in us. And
904
00:55:30,978 --> 00:55:34,570
wine kind of forces us to take that time out and
905
00:55:34,602 --> 00:55:38,354
savor the moment, the conversation. We're so much to go.
906
00:55:38,394 --> 00:55:41,922
A grab and go culture. You grab your coffee, you grab a slice, and you
907
00:55:41,938 --> 00:55:45,570
eat it walking down the street. And wine kind of
908
00:55:45,602 --> 00:55:49,242
forces us in a very beautiful way to remember what it's like just to be
909
00:55:49,258 --> 00:55:52,910
together. True. Such
910
00:55:52,942 --> 00:55:56,614
a. You were already at our time, which is unbelievable.
911
00:55:56,774 --> 00:56:00,622
With so much to talk about, but a fascinating conversation.
912
00:56:00,678 --> 00:56:04,474
I hope we can do it again. Yes. Hopefully in person one day.
913
00:56:04,774 --> 00:56:08,366
Yeah. We have not plans to get to Manhattan in the near
914
00:56:08,390 --> 00:56:12,234
future, unfortunately. They used to love doing that to visit my daughter. But
915
00:56:13,534 --> 00:56:17,298
we're always in Napa, and we'll keep tabs of each other. And
916
00:56:17,306 --> 00:56:21,090
if I love, I take my little portable studio up to Yonville and I just
917
00:56:21,122 --> 00:56:24,890
sit in the hotel conference room, and we do podcasts many
918
00:56:24,922 --> 00:56:28,666
times up there, so we'll just keep tabs and see what
919
00:56:28,690 --> 00:56:31,362
your travel plans are next time you're up there. We could be up there as
920
00:56:31,378 --> 00:56:34,174
well. Sounds like a plan for sure.
921
00:56:35,034 --> 00:56:38,854
Thank you for the time today and cheers. Cheers.
922
00:56:48,234 --> 00:56:52,074
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul Callum. Caryn, don't forget to subscribe
923
00:56:52,114 --> 00:56:55,826
because there's more great interviews on their way. Folks, have
924
00:56:55,850 --> 00:56:58,274
a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.