Be Inspired.
June 20, 2024

I Think You Can Say His Family Invented Provence Rosé. Meet François Ott.

I Think You Can Say His Family Invented Provence Rosé. Meet François Ott.

In an engaging moment on the "Wine Talks" podcast, host Paul K shares a fascinating anecdote from his early days as a wine taster. Reflecting on his extensive experience in the industry, Paul recounts how he began tasting wines in 1988. He...

 

In an engaging moment on the "Wine Talks" podcast, host Paul K shares a fascinating anecdote from his early days as a wine taster. Reflecting on his extensive experience in the industry, Paul recounts how he began tasting wines in 1988. He notes the significant evolution of rosé wine over the decades, particularly in the 1990s when rosé barely made an appearance in his tasting room. Fast forward to the present, and Paul observes a remarkable surge in the popularity of rosé, with every wine-producing region now crafting their own unique versions. From Tuscan to Corsican, Sardinian to Armenian rosé, these wines have carved out a niche in the market, showcasing the diverse expressions of grapes from various terroirs.

In the latest episode of "Wine Talks," host Paul K sits down with François Ott of Domaine Ott to delve into the intricacies of winemaking in Provence. The discussion opens with François elaborating on Domaine Ott’s mission to craft wines that create memorable experiences, particularly highlighting their special cuvée, Etoile. This project, initially a fun experiment, evolved into a sophisticated blend that aims to capture the complexities of three distinct terroirs, producing a rosé that ages with remarkable texture and depth.

François shares insights on adapting vineyard practices to cope with climate change, including the replacement of traditional grape varieties with more resilient ones like Vermentino and Rolle. He discusses the meticulous adjustments in canopy management, pruning, and soil plowing to ensure the vines thrive in hotter, drier conditions.

The conversation transitions to the cultural perceptions of rosé wine, with François emphasizing the importance of elevating rosé to the same esteem as red and white wines. He reflects on the historical impact of the phylloxera crisis and the subsequent evolution of winemaking practices in Provence. Both Paul and François agree on the need to educate consumers about the vineyard and winemaking processes to change perceptions and appreciate the nuanced qualities of rosé.

As they wrap up, François accentuates the joy of opening a good bottle of wine and the intention to provide a taste that reflects the unique terroir of their vines. 

 

Tune in to this sun episode of "Wine Talks" to explore the rich history and innovative future of rosé wines with Paul K and François Ott. Don’t miss the chance to deepen your understanding of the intricate art of winemaking in Provence—subscribe now for more captivating wine stories!

Transcript
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Carson Leno

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Fallon. Now it's

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wine talks with Paul K.

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Hey, welcome to wine talk with Paul K. And we are at a semi

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away game, still in Los Angeles, about to have a conversation with Jean

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Francois. Jean. Jean. Easy for me to say. Jean Francois.

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Haute of Domain. Haute introductions in just a moment. Hey, have

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a listen to this. Upcoming shows. I just finished in Bordeaux, France. I had

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an amazing conversation with Pierre Olivier Clouet

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of the Cheval Blanc as well as Veronique Sanders

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van Beeck of Chateau au bail. Incredible conversation about

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what's going on in the Bordeaux region of France. And also just

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up a conversation with Monique Elling. She is a

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d one tennis player who's turned digital wine

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marketeer. Fascinating, interesting, intelligent conversation

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about wine. Listen to that. But not while we're here. Here to have a conversation

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with Jean. Jean. I keep saying Jean. Jean Francois,

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welcome to the show. Thank you. He's

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looking at me like, what's wrong with you? You can't even say my name right.

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But we all know of the famed

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rose house in the provence of Domain Haute.

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And as we were discussing earlier, the Americans say haute, but it's

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haute. So welcome to the show. Thank you. It's great. You know, we saw you

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yesterday in Wally's, had a great lunch, and I've

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never had a vertical of a rose before.

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Is that done very often? Not very often.

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Yeah. Who's, who's, whose idea was this? Was this Maureen's idea?

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No, I want, I wanted to make

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it on Rosewine because nobody does it.

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And it's a way for me to make people understand that good

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rose can age a little bit. Yeah. Yeah. I

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want to do the lay of the land, sort of the geography of the

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provence for people to understand where we're at

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in France, having just been to Monaco for the Grand Prix, of

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course, which is incredible. Let's

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explain to the listeners where in France we're talking about the Provence.

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So we are exactly by the sea

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in the VA area. We are located

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between, I would say west

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from Saint Tropez. Between Saint Tropez and Marseilles.

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And we have three different estate there,

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Chateau de Selmierai and Chateau Manceau.

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So that's the Mediterranean Sea. Absolutely, yeah. And

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there's a little sea that's off of Monaco and

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between the island. And now I can't remember the name of it. I saw it

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on the atlas the other day. But the mediterranean influence is a very

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important part of these wines. And in

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fact, yesterday when you discussed that, it hit me, you know, the

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salinity and that. Wonderful. It's almost the same salinity

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you get sometimes in the sicilian wines, where you get this little bit.

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It's not salt. I wouldn't even call it salt. Right. It's just an influence.

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Yep. It's something like,

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we call it salinity, but

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actually, in France, it's another

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word, and it kind of make you

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feel that, you know, you're a little bit thirsty when you

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just drink. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's pretty nice. I get it.

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Enfranch. There's a phrase a fries

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for. We call it

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sapid, maybe sabidity or. I don't

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know if it works. I think that makes sense. So this is not

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a new facility. Now I'm going to talk Rose a little bit about the

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american market, which is particularly in the west coast where you're at

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today. Rose is kind of new. We don't

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really discuss Rose until the last, let's say, ten

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years. The east coast was much more prolific when it came to

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rose consumption prior. And then, of course, it all started in the

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Provence pretty much. But your family is not new to this.

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No. My great grandfather started. So

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he was coming from Alsace because of the name. Right.

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So he was coming from Alsace. He was just

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graduated from agronomical school in

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Paris, and he wanted to make wines,

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iron wines, and he looked at

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several regions in France, and

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he finally ended up in Provence. He wanted to

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go to Algeria because at this time, Algeria was

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french. And finally,

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he didn't move to Algeria, and he stayed in Provence,

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but he. Wanted to be in the wine trade when he went to school. Yes,

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this was his idea. What was, was the family in wine before that? No,

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no, it was like, you know, something

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like a vocation, I guess. Yeah, right. No, well, I mean,

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certainly is intriguing to, to be in this industry, particularly

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as a french, you know, indigenous, native french person,

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so. Yeah, but, you know, it was, he was graduated

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from an

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agronomical school, and at this time

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in France, they had the phylloxera, so

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all the vineyard was down.

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And so he had a lot of job

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replanting the vineyard.

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And when he first ended up

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in Provence, he had a lot of.

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Yeah, it was, it took all

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his time starting to replant with new

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type of grapes for other people, and

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at one point, he decided to buy an estate himself,

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thinking that he cannot plan for everyone and doesn't

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make it for himself. So, you know, you said something important because

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during one of the tours while I was podcasting in,

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I don't think it was Bordeaux, though. One of

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the tour guides said when philoxuracrain, which

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was late, 18 hundreds. Right. That that

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was the end of fine wine in France, because we had to get

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american rootstock to fix the problem. And I thought, well, that's an

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interesting comment to make, you know, since originally the rootstock was french that we

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got, and then we sent it back. But is that a,

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is that a real opinion that, that we've ruined of the merry.

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Where did that come from? Is that the question? Nobody can know, actually.

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I mean, it would, it would be.

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I don't know what kind of coping can be, but you

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never know, actually. The thing is, we have rootstock. We don't

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have any more philoxia. I mean, we still have it, but

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we don't have any problem with it. Yeah. And the one

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song, so hit, the. Provence, the phylloxer

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wiped out pretty much. I know most of the Bordeaux, Burgundy, all the rest of

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it, but Provence got it, too. Yeah. And so when he went out to

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buy his first, well, he bought vineyards to make, to

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grow grapes, originally, and then he decided to make wine. So the first vintage

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that your great grandfather made, do you know what it is? It must

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be just after the war. The

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first. Oh, so, 1819. Yeah. Wow.

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And was it rose? It was. At this time, it was

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producing the 3d color. Yeah, that's right. Okay. Yeah.

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Because there's something on your website, you talked about it yesterday about Cabernet Sauvignon,

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and I thought that was really interesting because you don't hear about that, but

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you've eliminated that completely from your vineyard.

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Yeah, no, but I really felt that. I

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have some example about

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this. We used to make the white

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wine in clo Mireille with 50% of

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uni blanc and 50% of simillon. And

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at one point, I really felt interesting.

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We didn't really manage to grow

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the right way. I mean, with the quality. We wanted the uni

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blanc anymore, so we decided to

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switch from uni blanc to Virmentino or to

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roll. And roll, I think, is more adapted

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to the place. I mean, today, because

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the weather is changing a little bit, and it's getting warmer,

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drier. So Vermont chino is.

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I mean, it's nice at this place, and I really feel

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that Unil blanc was not nice anymore, and it's exactly the

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same for Cabernet. And maybe I

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started in the, at domenot in

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2002, and at this time, I had

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more verd in Chateau de Seul, and I

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never managed to have the good ripeness on

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those mower. And so I put them up

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and today I plan some back, some

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movie back. Oh, really? In Chateau de Seul. And they go to ripeness

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without any problem. So that means that we, we need to adapt

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our. Yeah. The type of grapes and the viticulture to

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the. To the terroir, to the place and to the climate. So is

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that, I mean, let's. I have, and this is

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not a political show, this is about wine. So

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I try to keep the politics out of it, but there is

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obviously climate change. Many wine districts in the world

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are wrestling with having to change their policies

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on how they canopy and trellis. Other parts of the wine

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world now are producing grapes better than they've ever produced

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because look at England. You can grow champagne grapes there now

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and you couldn't. I have notes from my father's trip in

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1979 to Sussex, England and

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the Isle of Wight. You know, it was all german Riesling and

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german varietals for cold weather. Now, Pinot Noir,

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Chardonnay. So in your case, do you think that the more

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vedras come back because that it's more suitable based

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on today's climate? And then what are you doing

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to potentially deal with this down the

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road. On which type of

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grapes? I mean, on every type of grape. I mean, like, what's the general

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idea for protecting yourself in the future from

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problem? I cannot do that. I mean,

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the only thing I can do is trying

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to be involved on the everyday process

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in the vineyard to make sure that what we do

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works with the climate and

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the rain or the hot temperature that we have

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on everyday during the year.

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And so we have small tricks

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about talking about the canopy, taking the leaves

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out or not pruning later,

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plowing the soil at certain times,

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putting some grass in the

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vineyard to keep the humidity in the soil.

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I would say it's the short term story.

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And on the long term story, I need to

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know exactly what

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could be new type of grapes

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in my terroir. So

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I make a lot of tries on

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different type of grapes, grapes that are coming

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from Greece, Portugal,

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which you can't pronounce.

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Yeah. And all south of Italy,

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places that are drier, hotter than

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what we are in Provence. And

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it's not going to be for today. It's going to be for, you know,

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when we talk about viticulture, we always think

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not from for the five next years, but maybe for

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the next 20 or 30 years.

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And I don't know, in about

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20 years from now, I don't really

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know what exactly will be

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the climate, the weather in south of France. I mean,

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the only thing I know is

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we've lost in, I would say

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35 years. We've lost a month

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on the time we harvest. That means that we used

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to harvest mid September and

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today we harvest in mid

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August. So that's so fascinating because

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Napa was a month late this year in California.

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And, you know, there's been many cycles in the

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history of agriculture and wine particular. Look at

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the late 17 hundreds was a cold snap, 15 years of

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colder temperature. So we don't know what we're up for. But were you always going

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to be in wine? Your father did this? Yes. You

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just were going to do it. You had no ambition to do anything else. You

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wanted to stay in the family business? No, I came back

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00:13:57,524 --> 00:14:01,064
in 2002. I was 29. So I worked

224
00:14:01,524 --> 00:14:05,060
in other companies, but not in a wine business

225
00:14:05,172 --> 00:14:08,904
for almost seven years.

226
00:14:09,364 --> 00:14:12,468
But thinking you were coming back or thinking, yeah, I don't want to be in

227
00:14:12,476 --> 00:14:15,860
the family business. I don't have any. I have three daughters. They didn't want my

228
00:14:15,892 --> 00:14:19,304
business. Actually,

229
00:14:21,984 --> 00:14:25,816
I think I knew that I was going to come back, but I

230
00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:28,644
think I was trying to, you know,

231
00:14:29,584 --> 00:14:33,284
I didn't feel that being involved with

232
00:14:34,464 --> 00:14:38,164
the previous generation, there were six people

233
00:14:38,464 --> 00:14:41,712
really strong with 40 years of experience.

234
00:14:41,848 --> 00:14:45,280
So I was too young for that. So I had to

235
00:14:45,312 --> 00:14:48,764
go somewhere else and come back a little bit stronger.

236
00:14:49,104 --> 00:14:52,920
No, I agree. I did the same. I went to

237
00:14:52,952 --> 00:14:56,456
corporate America, biggest sales company in America at the

238
00:14:56,480 --> 00:14:59,576
time. And then I went to a company that had nothing. We had

239
00:14:59,640 --> 00:15:03,256
nothing. We had no money, and we had a small computer. This is

240
00:15:03,280 --> 00:15:06,920
19 81 85. But that

241
00:15:06,952 --> 00:15:10,760
prepared me for this to be in our industry.

242
00:15:10,952 --> 00:15:14,164
And now I would never think of doing anything else

243
00:15:14,484 --> 00:15:18,260
because it's so, it's like a, I don't know, it's not a fraternity, but there's

244
00:15:18,292 --> 00:15:22,100
so much camaraderie to do this. Tell me about

245
00:15:22,132 --> 00:15:25,972
Rose in the world. I discussed it a little bit in

246
00:15:25,988 --> 00:15:29,740
the beginning. That rose in California just caught on.

247
00:15:29,932 --> 00:15:33,740
We had 1974 when Sutter Holm came up with

248
00:15:33,772 --> 00:15:37,504
white Zinfandel, which probably was not a good thing for the world of rose.

249
00:15:37,884 --> 00:15:41,580
But he's making a face, everybody. But it was a good

250
00:15:41,612 --> 00:15:44,884
thing for the world of wine because people that weren't drinking

251
00:15:44,924 --> 00:15:48,284
wine, now we're drinking wine. But

252
00:15:48,904 --> 00:15:50,284
I think there's still

253
00:15:53,064 --> 00:15:56,804
a mindset in Americans that pink wine

254
00:15:57,144 --> 00:16:00,896
is sweet wine. Do you still, do you see that in

255
00:16:00,920 --> 00:16:04,744
America? I see that only in America, actually. And

256
00:16:04,904 --> 00:16:08,696
most of the time people ask us if

257
00:16:08,720 --> 00:16:11,976
it is sweet or dry? They just ask the question. Yeah.

258
00:16:12,040 --> 00:16:15,434
And to tell you the truth, I don't feel, I mean,

259
00:16:15,934 --> 00:16:19,662
beside white defender. I mean, I never had a sweet

260
00:16:19,718 --> 00:16:22,634
Jose wine. Yeah. Doesn't exist.

261
00:16:23,574 --> 00:16:27,110
Well, you know, there's been. I have a story.

262
00:16:27,262 --> 00:16:30,154
The listeners have heard this before, but in 74, my father

263
00:16:30,974 --> 00:16:34,782
had his wine shop had been about six, seven years. Went to Napa, stopped

264
00:16:34,798 --> 00:16:38,598
at seller home. This young man named Bob Trincaro was working

265
00:16:38,646 --> 00:16:41,566
the counter back then in the wine trademark. And I'm going to ask you this

266
00:16:41,590 --> 00:16:45,366
question about the Provence. But back then, there was not a lot of visitors. There

267
00:16:45,390 --> 00:16:49,174
wasn't hospitality like there is today in Napa. And he says, I want

268
00:16:49,214 --> 00:16:52,590
you to taste something. It's in the back. He brings out this bottle of white

269
00:16:52,622 --> 00:16:55,754
Zinfandel. But he was trying to make

270
00:16:56,294 --> 00:16:59,582
what they called eye of the partridge a dry

271
00:16:59,638 --> 00:17:03,462
rose. It was Provence style originally. It always

272
00:17:03,518 --> 00:17:07,310
had been, but the fermentation stopped and he was stuck with this

273
00:17:07,342 --> 00:17:10,654
thing. And then, of course, it became the biggest seller we ever had.

274
00:17:11,514 --> 00:17:14,534
So I'm wondering if that's just the premonition of

275
00:17:15,954 --> 00:17:19,626
american palates. You know, the american palate just got used to

276
00:17:19,650 --> 00:17:23,254
this idea. So it was never sweet in Provence, ever. No,

277
00:17:24,314 --> 00:17:27,338
but I mean, the cahi desharges of

278
00:17:27,426 --> 00:17:29,334
Provence wines,

279
00:17:32,034 --> 00:17:35,834
you need to have at least less

280
00:17:35,874 --> 00:17:39,154
than 3 grams of sugar. So,

281
00:17:39,314 --> 00:17:43,094
wow. At this time, it's dry. Yeah. So

282
00:17:44,554 --> 00:17:48,066
besides, besides America, what's

283
00:17:48,090 --> 00:17:51,578
the, what is the reception for Rose today,

284
00:17:51,706 --> 00:17:55,014
let's say, compared to when you started in 2002?

285
00:17:57,754 --> 00:18:01,266
I think the, at the beginning,

286
00:18:01,330 --> 00:18:04,890
when, when my family started to make Jose, nobody was

287
00:18:04,922 --> 00:18:08,374
producing Jose. So it was the beginning of everything on Rose

288
00:18:09,224 --> 00:18:12,864
in south France. But I think my great grandfather was smart and he wanted

289
00:18:12,904 --> 00:18:16,656
to, he didn't want to compete with high end white

290
00:18:16,720 --> 00:18:20,224
or high end red wines. And he decided to

291
00:18:20,264 --> 00:18:23,400
create the category of Rose

292
00:18:23,472 --> 00:18:27,248
more. But he was producing

293
00:18:27,296 --> 00:18:30,924
a lot of Jose. The success was

294
00:18:32,704 --> 00:18:36,304
okay, let's say, okay, in south of France, on

295
00:18:36,384 --> 00:18:40,154
the Cote d'Azur, on the French Riviera. But

296
00:18:41,774 --> 00:18:43,674
it was difficult to sell.

297
00:18:46,254 --> 00:18:49,750
I mean, enough Jose to sell everything. So decided

298
00:18:49,822 --> 00:18:53,446
to multiply

299
00:18:53,630 --> 00:18:57,134
the country where he was going to export. But it was also,

300
00:18:57,294 --> 00:19:00,950
it was only, we say, niche market, I mean,

301
00:19:01,022 --> 00:19:03,394
really small market everywhere.

302
00:19:04,614 --> 00:19:08,198
So he managed to

303
00:19:08,366 --> 00:19:11,594
sell a good part of his production. But

304
00:19:12,054 --> 00:19:15,774
it lasts maybe from the beginning of the

305
00:19:15,814 --> 00:19:17,314
nineties until

306
00:19:24,294 --> 00:19:27,714
1990 or after the war,

307
00:19:28,494 --> 00:19:30,514
I would say the end of the nineties.

308
00:19:32,854 --> 00:19:36,030
At this time, the market changed a little bit.

309
00:19:36,182 --> 00:19:39,782
And since then, it has been really fast. I

310
00:19:39,798 --> 00:19:43,286
mean, the market of rose get developed in

311
00:19:43,390 --> 00:19:46,594
about, I would say, 30 years now,

312
00:19:47,494 --> 00:19:49,034
really fast. And.

313
00:19:51,454 --> 00:19:54,834
I wonder why that is. I don't. I think

314
00:19:56,014 --> 00:19:59,736
there are many reasons. I think the first reason is

315
00:19:59,760 --> 00:20:03,484
because the quality, the general quality of Jose wines

316
00:20:04,024 --> 00:20:07,216
improved a lot the last 20 years.

317
00:20:07,320 --> 00:20:10,792
Really. I also think people

318
00:20:10,888 --> 00:20:14,364
get, you know, maybe because of Zefindel, but

319
00:20:15,184 --> 00:20:18,912
they get used to the color, and. And women

320
00:20:19,008 --> 00:20:22,544
started to like this color and this

321
00:20:22,584 --> 00:20:26,224
wine, and they started to buy some.

322
00:20:26,564 --> 00:20:30,164
And I don't know. It's. At the same time,

323
00:20:30,244 --> 00:20:33,944
it's a good entrance door

324
00:20:34,324 --> 00:20:36,744
to the world of wine, because

325
00:20:39,484 --> 00:20:43,156
most of the time, when you're talking about Bordeaux, Burgundy, white

326
00:20:43,220 --> 00:20:47,068
or red, I mean, you need to know everything about

327
00:20:47,116 --> 00:20:50,428
it. So there's something about the complexity of this

328
00:20:50,476 --> 00:20:53,830
world. For Jose,

329
00:20:53,942 --> 00:20:56,314
it's way more simple. I mean,

330
00:20:57,934 --> 00:21:01,446
it's true. Most of the time, Jose is Provence, and that's

331
00:21:01,470 --> 00:21:04,874
it. That's all you need to know. That's an interesting thought, because

332
00:21:07,534 --> 00:21:11,326
yesterday's wine, there was plenty of structure. And I'm going to go

333
00:21:11,350 --> 00:21:14,406
back to when I started tasting in

334
00:21:14,430 --> 00:21:18,114
1988. So about when you're talking, right, the nineties

335
00:21:19,554 --> 00:21:23,050
saw very little. And that was every Tuesday for

336
00:21:23,082 --> 00:21:26,458
35 years. I'd stand in my tasting room, and all of a

337
00:21:26,466 --> 00:21:30,218
sudden, I guess if I went back and plotted the graph, you would see this

338
00:21:30,266 --> 00:21:33,858
upward graph of tastings, but not only upward graph of

339
00:21:33,906 --> 00:21:37,490
more rose. Every appalachian in the

340
00:21:37,522 --> 00:21:41,226
world now seems to have its own rose made from

341
00:21:41,250 --> 00:21:44,378
its own grapes. I mean, there's tuscan rose, there's

342
00:21:44,466 --> 00:21:47,734
corsican rose, there's sardinian rose,

343
00:21:49,114 --> 00:21:52,894
and there's armenian rose, my indigenous heritage.

344
00:21:54,034 --> 00:21:57,794
And I find that interesting, that the market's big enough that

345
00:21:57,834 --> 00:22:01,242
they've said, you know what? We should be making rose, too. And they make them

346
00:22:01,258 --> 00:22:04,818
from all the grapes that they. Is there any appalachian restrictions

347
00:22:04,986 --> 00:22:08,706
in the south of France as to what you can make it from? Oh,

348
00:22:08,730 --> 00:22:12,514
yeah. AOC stuff. I mean, the AOC. I mean, in the AOC,

349
00:22:12,594 --> 00:22:16,146
you have a list of type of grapes. Oh, you do? And you cannot

350
00:22:16,210 --> 00:22:19,594
use anything else. Yeah. And that's interesting

351
00:22:19,674 --> 00:22:23,322
because I had a Tuscan. I was like, eh, it was okay. But then I

352
00:22:23,338 --> 00:22:27,082
had this corsican. What's the grape? The

353
00:22:27,098 --> 00:22:30,922
indigenous grape of Corsica. I was like, wow, this is really special. But

354
00:22:30,938 --> 00:22:34,658
the wines we tasted yesterday, which we tasted. The three different estates.

355
00:22:34,746 --> 00:22:38,506
Yes. And then we tasted Etoile, which is your flagship

356
00:22:38,690 --> 00:22:42,454
blend from all the estates. If I remember hearing yesterday,

357
00:22:43,284 --> 00:22:47,012
what was interesting about all of them, and particularly tasting a

358
00:22:47,028 --> 00:22:50,732
vertical, which, the oldest being 2020, there was

359
00:22:50,788 --> 00:22:53,852
great structure in those wines. There was great

360
00:22:53,908 --> 00:22:57,356
acidity, there was great fruit. There was a

361
00:22:57,380 --> 00:23:01,092
seamless transition from the beginning to the end. Is

362
00:23:01,108 --> 00:23:04,224
that the objective here? To produce a wine that

363
00:23:04,644 --> 00:23:07,464
reflects terroir and

364
00:23:07,804 --> 00:23:10,704
structure? Yeah, definitely. I mean,

365
00:23:11,844 --> 00:23:15,424
there are many goals. Obviously. The first one is

366
00:23:16,604 --> 00:23:17,944
we need them to

367
00:23:20,484 --> 00:23:23,876
like them. Well, that starts

368
00:23:23,900 --> 00:23:26,744
it. We can make stuff we like, but that doesn't matter.

369
00:23:28,164 --> 00:23:31,224
That's exactly the same as the chef, I think. I mean,

370
00:23:31,804 --> 00:23:34,104
you obviously produce what you like,

371
00:23:34,964 --> 00:23:38,564
but it's also a way to

372
00:23:38,944 --> 00:23:41,524
make people understand. I'm not sure

373
00:23:42,184 --> 00:23:45,244
that rose can also be a

374
00:23:47,024 --> 00:23:49,884
wine with a structure, with a taste

375
00:23:50,864 --> 00:23:54,512
and with the characteristic of a rose. I

376
00:23:54,528 --> 00:23:57,164
mean, what do you expect in a rose?

377
00:23:59,224 --> 00:24:02,656
I feel that we all expect pretty much the same. The

378
00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:06,304
freshness, the good balance, the fruit

379
00:24:06,344 --> 00:24:10,136
taste. It has to be refreshing. And at the

380
00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:13,848
same time, it's wine. So we need.

381
00:24:13,936 --> 00:24:17,604
We need structure. We need the texture in the mouth.

382
00:24:19,624 --> 00:24:23,400
We need it to be good and pleasant. So, you know,

383
00:24:23,432 --> 00:24:27,136
that's. I'm glad he said it that way. Last night

384
00:24:27,160 --> 00:24:30,456
I had only to celebrate our trip. I had a bottle of

385
00:24:30,480 --> 00:24:34,134
obey. But I was looking forward to that

386
00:24:34,834 --> 00:24:38,074
during the day. Like, I was looking forward to the idea of going to open

387
00:24:38,114 --> 00:24:41,842
this wine. Right. That's good. And you want this to be

388
00:24:41,858 --> 00:24:45,054
the same with Rose. And I think what I tasted yesterday,

389
00:24:45,874 --> 00:24:49,594
I can anticipate at lunchtime

390
00:24:49,634 --> 00:24:53,338
that tonight I'm going to open a bottle of domenot and I'm going to

391
00:24:53,386 --> 00:24:57,130
etoile and I'm going to anticipate this acid,

392
00:24:57,202 --> 00:25:00,816
this structure and the way it works with my food. And I think that's an

393
00:25:00,840 --> 00:25:02,724
important lesson or

394
00:25:04,864 --> 00:25:08,712
character that we need the public to learn, not just as an

395
00:25:08,728 --> 00:25:12,536
aperitif in the summertime, but

396
00:25:12,560 --> 00:25:15,124
as in tasting that 2020.

397
00:25:16,544 --> 00:25:20,288
You'd almost expect that under the old school to be

398
00:25:20,336 --> 00:25:24,016
slightly maturized, oxidized, that the character would be gone. And it

399
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:27,854
wasn't. It was rather bright and ready. Yeah.

400
00:25:28,154 --> 00:25:31,562
To tell you the truth, I'm struggling a lot on

401
00:25:31,618 --> 00:25:35,330
Rose about

402
00:25:35,362 --> 00:25:38,534
the market, because I really feel that people.

403
00:25:40,234 --> 00:25:41,774
It's something like

404
00:25:43,994 --> 00:25:47,658
Rose. It has

405
00:25:47,706 --> 00:25:51,482
to be, you know, how do you

406
00:25:51,498 --> 00:25:55,302
say, like, if it's. It's not a serious wine, right? It's

407
00:25:55,318 --> 00:25:58,710
not serious. And I'm

408
00:25:58,742 --> 00:26:02,286
struggling against that, actually, because I really want

409
00:26:02,430 --> 00:26:05,434
rose to be at the same level as white and

410
00:26:05,774 --> 00:26:09,550
red. I mean, some whites and some reds are not

411
00:26:09,582 --> 00:26:12,594
good. Some rose are not good. That's true. And

412
00:26:13,494 --> 00:26:17,190
some, Jose, are really good. And some red.

413
00:26:17,342 --> 00:26:21,158
You are expecting your dinner and you want

414
00:26:21,206 --> 00:26:24,848
to. I mean, you think about it during your day and you want to open

415
00:26:24,896 --> 00:26:28,616
it at night. Right. It's pretty much. It can be pretty much the same

416
00:26:28,640 --> 00:26:31,844
for Jose. I think so. And it really depends on

417
00:26:32,144 --> 00:26:35,824
the way you make it, what you expect, what you

418
00:26:35,864 --> 00:26:39,640
put on the production of your. Of your wine. It can

419
00:26:39,672 --> 00:26:43,440
be white, red, or rosy. You know, that's interesting, because

420
00:26:43,472 --> 00:26:45,404
you said something, and I was.

421
00:26:47,564 --> 00:26:50,596
I can't use the word fascinating because my friends laugh at me when I use

422
00:26:50,620 --> 00:26:54,012
that word, but I was intrigued by the idea that a one, you said, I

423
00:26:54,028 --> 00:26:57,788
don't care about the color because some of it was pretty pale. And

424
00:26:57,796 --> 00:27:01,452
I started thinking, wait a minute, for the listeners, if you crush it, if you

425
00:27:01,468 --> 00:27:05,268
open a grape up, almost all grapes, there's only a handful of red skin

426
00:27:05,316 --> 00:27:08,764
grapes that have red pulp, but most red

427
00:27:08,844 --> 00:27:12,504
grapes have clear pulp. And so,

428
00:27:13,104 --> 00:27:16,240
really, what's the difference between that and a white wine, except that it started with

429
00:27:16,272 --> 00:27:19,976
red skin, and so you should be able to get the same structure, the same

430
00:27:20,040 --> 00:27:23,760
appeal, the same anticipation from a rose wine,

431
00:27:23,792 --> 00:27:27,640
maybe even more, because you do have that little influence from the skin contact.

432
00:27:27,712 --> 00:27:31,472
Yes, absolutely. To produce a wine of character.

433
00:27:31,648 --> 00:27:35,440
So how do we do that? I have this. It's not an argument,

434
00:27:35,472 --> 00:27:39,224
but I have this discussion many times with the academics

435
00:27:39,264 --> 00:27:42,800
of the wine world, and that is, wine has always been driven by the

436
00:27:42,832 --> 00:27:46,480
consumer. I mean, as much as you and I would love that romantic idea, that

437
00:27:46,512 --> 00:27:49,944
wine is this beverage that we can all enjoy, and maybe

438
00:27:49,984 --> 00:27:53,752
profitability, if that wasn't a problem, then maybe we would have a

439
00:27:53,768 --> 00:27:57,576
different wine. Right. But we don't. We have to appeal to the consumer.

440
00:27:57,600 --> 00:28:01,044
So is it trips like these? Here you are in Los Angeles

441
00:28:01,624 --> 00:28:05,416
explaining, tasting, talking to the press, talking

442
00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:07,880
to clients. Is that the only way that we can do this? Is that a

443
00:28:07,912 --> 00:28:11,136
way we need to do it? Yeah. I'm not sure the

444
00:28:11,160 --> 00:28:14,936
market can lead the taste of the

445
00:28:14,960 --> 00:28:18,800
production. I mean, unless you have 12 million

446
00:28:18,872 --> 00:28:22,576
bottles to sell. I mean, the production, our production is small,

447
00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:26,224
and the world is big. So hopefully I would

448
00:28:26,264 --> 00:28:30,112
find some people that have the same taste. That's a good point. That's a

449
00:28:30,128 --> 00:28:33,616
good point. But, yeah, I

450
00:28:33,640 --> 00:28:37,432
think we need to. I

451
00:28:37,448 --> 00:28:41,176
mean, I really feel that. Well, I like to make it, but I really

452
00:28:41,200 --> 00:28:45,008
feel that I need to explain people our job, what we

453
00:28:45,016 --> 00:28:48,664
are doing in the vineyard every day, our everyday

454
00:28:48,704 --> 00:28:52,024
job, the fact

455
00:28:52,064 --> 00:28:55,496
that we spend time in the

456
00:28:55,520 --> 00:28:59,224
vineyard, we go into details

457
00:28:59,344 --> 00:29:02,570
to make it that way

458
00:29:02,642 --> 00:29:06,026
and to get consistent from one vintage to the

459
00:29:06,050 --> 00:29:08,334
other. All

460
00:29:09,514 --> 00:29:13,250
the work that we

461
00:29:13,282 --> 00:29:17,014
do in the vineyard in the winery to make it

462
00:29:19,674 --> 00:29:22,858
the way it is. And, yeah, we need to explain.

463
00:29:22,946 --> 00:29:26,414
Otherwise people would think,

464
00:29:28,574 --> 00:29:32,262
I don't know what they can think, but

465
00:29:32,358 --> 00:29:35,686
I think it's important to not educated

466
00:29:35,830 --> 00:29:39,078
people, but because that's to

467
00:29:39,126 --> 00:29:42,462
change the image of Jose in people's mind

468
00:29:42,518 --> 00:29:45,714
anyway. Well, the general, if you think about this,

469
00:29:46,774 --> 00:29:50,342
well, you're here in Los Angeles. If you get a chance to go to a

470
00:29:50,358 --> 00:29:53,314
supermarket and walk down the wine aisle, you're going to find

471
00:29:54,374 --> 00:29:57,798
dozens and dozens and dozens of brands of Cabernet, P. O

472
00:29:57,806 --> 00:30:01,566
noire and the rest, as well as less. But you'll

473
00:30:01,590 --> 00:30:05,274
see a lot of rose. They're going to be

474
00:30:06,294 --> 00:30:10,078
pretty much the same. This is the problem I have with the industry

475
00:30:10,126 --> 00:30:13,894
in general, is that what people have to reach

476
00:30:13,934 --> 00:30:16,926
for off the shelf is going to be tastes like, almost like the one next

477
00:30:16,950 --> 00:30:20,726
door to it, because they always have some kind of sugar. The reds, the

478
00:30:20,750 --> 00:30:24,428
whites and the rose all have some kind of sugar. And so I

479
00:30:24,436 --> 00:30:27,636
think you have to put your wines in a glass in front of

480
00:30:27,660 --> 00:30:30,764
somebody to get them to feel. So this, is, this a

481
00:30:30,804 --> 00:30:34,380
struggle between brand

482
00:30:34,452 --> 00:30:38,140
recognition of your domain, which

483
00:30:38,172 --> 00:30:41,964
is, for you, would be staying the course,

484
00:30:42,044 --> 00:30:45,676
staying that straight line, making those wines that you want

485
00:30:45,740 --> 00:30:49,074
to be in the bottle, in your special bottle shape,

486
00:30:49,574 --> 00:30:53,294
and never, never deter from

487
00:30:53,334 --> 00:30:57,150
that because you don't want to succumb to the consumer

488
00:30:57,182 --> 00:30:59,474
part of it. No,

489
00:31:00,654 --> 00:31:03,674
again, again, I think I really make,

490
00:31:04,294 --> 00:31:07,750
I think that was, you talked

491
00:31:07,782 --> 00:31:11,030
about the comments that you had on

492
00:31:11,062 --> 00:31:14,846
Bordeaux with the rootstock, and I think

493
00:31:14,910 --> 00:31:18,144
we, the wines are changing with

494
00:31:18,964 --> 00:31:22,420
our taste. I'm not sure my great

495
00:31:22,452 --> 00:31:26,260
grandfather would like the wine I make today. That's interesting. And I'm not

496
00:31:26,292 --> 00:31:30,020
sure I would love the wine he was making at this

497
00:31:30,052 --> 00:31:32,344
time. That's a good point. But nobody knows.

498
00:31:33,764 --> 00:31:37,580
And the thing is, that's so interesting. I never thought of it. That's

499
00:31:37,612 --> 00:31:40,868
interesting. No, but the thing is, I really feel

500
00:31:40,916 --> 00:31:44,706
that little by little,

501
00:31:44,810 --> 00:31:48,614
on every vintage, we changed things.

502
00:31:50,554 --> 00:31:54,082
And even if there is something like a real

503
00:31:54,138 --> 00:31:57,890
consistency from one vintage to the other, I think we

504
00:31:58,082 --> 00:32:00,894
adapt not because of the market, but

505
00:32:01,754 --> 00:32:05,538
only because of our taste. And

506
00:32:05,626 --> 00:32:08,814
I think that's an interesting thought. And I never

507
00:32:09,394 --> 00:32:13,146
thought about the, your great grandfather or anybody's

508
00:32:13,290 --> 00:32:16,874
predecessor enjoying the wines that you're making today based

509
00:32:16,914 --> 00:32:20,154
on what they were up against and their

510
00:32:20,194 --> 00:32:22,934
marketing and their palate.

511
00:32:24,074 --> 00:32:27,722
You know, that conversation goes another way. And I had this conversation yesterday

512
00:32:27,778 --> 00:32:31,346
with a master of wine, Vanessa Conlon. And that

513
00:32:31,370 --> 00:32:35,218
is, gee, we don't even describe wines the way your grandfather would

514
00:32:35,226 --> 00:32:39,066
have described it, right. No, we use different terms and that's going to

515
00:32:39,090 --> 00:32:42,494
change again. And I think that's an important part of our industry.

516
00:32:43,514 --> 00:32:47,298
And I think it's also why wine is still here. I mean, what is

517
00:32:47,306 --> 00:32:51,042
it, 60 00, 10,000, who knows, 12,000 years old. And I think

518
00:32:51,058 --> 00:32:54,882
it's beyond the fact that there's alcohol in it only, that's not the only

519
00:32:54,938 --> 00:32:58,010
reason in that it does something to our

520
00:32:58,042 --> 00:33:01,866
souls. It brings us to some place and sometime. Is that the

521
00:33:01,890 --> 00:33:05,244
objective of domain art is to

522
00:33:05,824 --> 00:33:09,364
have people feel like a time and place

523
00:33:09,744 --> 00:33:13,336
for sure. Yeah. I mean, I think a part of the success of

524
00:33:13,360 --> 00:33:16,696
domenot is also because it comes from Provence.

525
00:33:16,880 --> 00:33:20,720
And, you know, I try to keep half

526
00:33:20,752 --> 00:33:24,124
of my production in on the French Riviera because

527
00:33:24,624 --> 00:33:28,400
it's a really good, you know, a window on

528
00:33:28,432 --> 00:33:32,130
the, on the, the market and foreign markets because people are

529
00:33:32,162 --> 00:33:35,894
coming in south France. They are not coming for

530
00:33:36,594 --> 00:33:40,010
most of the time. They are coming on holidays. It's always good

531
00:33:40,042 --> 00:33:43,634
memories and good memories, good holidays, good

532
00:33:43,674 --> 00:33:47,354
wine. When you come back to your

533
00:33:47,394 --> 00:33:50,778
country, I mean, feeling

534
00:33:50,826 --> 00:33:54,450
that you come with a part of your

535
00:33:54,482 --> 00:33:56,494
holidays, it's always a good point.

536
00:33:58,474 --> 00:34:01,658
We also, and we really try

537
00:34:01,746 --> 00:34:04,938
to adapt our

538
00:34:04,986 --> 00:34:08,474
viticulture to have the good grapes, the good

539
00:34:08,514 --> 00:34:11,614
sepage at the right place. And

540
00:34:12,154 --> 00:34:15,706
our vinification is trying to respect

541
00:34:15,850 --> 00:34:19,418
distaste. We want to have the same taste

542
00:34:19,546 --> 00:34:22,622
from the grapes to the bottle.

543
00:34:22,778 --> 00:34:26,534
And that's also very, I think that's

544
00:34:26,574 --> 00:34:29,994
also a good point on that. That means that,

545
00:34:30,654 --> 00:34:34,470
yeah, we want people to have a part of the

546
00:34:34,502 --> 00:34:38,286
terroir of the place by the taste

547
00:34:38,310 --> 00:34:41,662
of our wine. You

548
00:34:41,678 --> 00:34:45,366
said volumes that you said a lot there. And I'm going to

549
00:34:45,390 --> 00:34:48,646
touch on one point, but we are to talk about Etoile. I want to get

550
00:34:48,670 --> 00:34:52,488
to that. Now when you said we

551
00:34:52,536 --> 00:34:55,364
want to have good times, we want people to

552
00:34:56,064 --> 00:34:59,880
equate or recognize that when they're on the French Riviera, Saint Tropez,

553
00:34:59,912 --> 00:35:03,536
Marseilles, nice, Cannes, all those places that when they open a bottle of

554
00:35:03,560 --> 00:35:07,152
domain haute, they feel something and they're going to remember

555
00:35:07,208 --> 00:35:10,232
this feeling. And so when they come back to the states or they go back

556
00:35:10,248 --> 00:35:13,992
to Italy or they go back to Germany where they're coming from and they

557
00:35:14,008 --> 00:35:17,584
see that bottle shape, they have that memory of

558
00:35:17,964 --> 00:35:21,500
that moment. And that's what wine is. No other beverage does

559
00:35:21,532 --> 00:35:24,584
that. In fact, if you're drinking Jack Daniels, you forget.

560
00:35:26,524 --> 00:35:30,020
Right. But let's talk about domain atois because I think an important thing,

561
00:35:30,132 --> 00:35:33,788
and tasting that vertically essay, what was the first vintage of domain etoile.

562
00:35:33,836 --> 00:35:36,344
And what is the objective of domain Etoile?

563
00:35:37,284 --> 00:35:41,132
Etoile. Domain Etoile Etoile Etoile etoile is

564
00:35:41,148 --> 00:35:44,404
a special cuve that we use to

565
00:35:44,444 --> 00:35:48,096
make, you know, only for fun and not for

566
00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:51,404
sale. I mean, it was always at the end of

567
00:35:51,704 --> 00:35:55,040
a blending session with the clumierais, Chateau de sel and Chateau

568
00:35:55,072 --> 00:35:58,872
Masson. Yeah, it was like a joke at the beginning

569
00:35:58,928 --> 00:36:02,724
because so no one ever says that. But

570
00:36:03,784 --> 00:36:07,520
we never wanted to market it to blend

571
00:36:07,712 --> 00:36:10,912
two or three terroirs. We wanted to have a really

572
00:36:10,968 --> 00:36:14,718
special wine on each terroir. But

573
00:36:14,806 --> 00:36:18,510
you know, at one point trying to blend two or three

574
00:36:18,542 --> 00:36:21,594
terroir at the same time would be. I mean, it was,

575
00:36:22,334 --> 00:36:25,878
it was fun for us and it was interesting.

576
00:36:26,006 --> 00:36:28,886
There is a difference. I mean, I'll stop here. I don't want to interrupt you,

577
00:36:28,910 --> 00:36:32,354
but for the listeners, there's a huge amount of

578
00:36:32,774 --> 00:36:36,558
distance between the three chateau all

579
00:36:36,566 --> 00:36:40,364
the way down to x. X, I always say wrong x. Yeah, I mean

580
00:36:40,404 --> 00:36:44,220
you've got quite. Yeah, it's almost 100 km between,

581
00:36:44,292 --> 00:36:48,064
uh, between the, the three of them. And um.

582
00:36:48,364 --> 00:36:51,996
Yeah, so the terroir are really different. Glomere is really by the

583
00:36:52,020 --> 00:36:55,812
sea. Chateau de sail is 300 meters high, totally

584
00:36:55,868 --> 00:36:59,428
different soil, and uh. Chateau massage Bandol. So

585
00:36:59,556 --> 00:37:02,904
yeah, they are really different. Boom. And uh,

586
00:37:03,684 --> 00:37:06,944
I really wanted to make a flagship for dome.

587
00:37:08,544 --> 00:37:12,352
And we've started. The first vintage was

588
00:37:12,448 --> 00:37:15,800
19. It's a really tiny

589
00:37:15,832 --> 00:37:19,544
production, but the

590
00:37:19,584 --> 00:37:22,604
ambition on this, Jose,

591
00:37:25,104 --> 00:37:28,044
is really to have in the same bottle

592
00:37:28,784 --> 00:37:32,484
the complexity of three different terroir.

593
00:37:32,844 --> 00:37:35,384
And also,

594
00:37:36,924 --> 00:37:40,144
I would say, the haute couture style. You know,

595
00:37:40,684 --> 00:37:44,332
when you put all your efforts in

596
00:37:44,428 --> 00:37:47,724
only a really tiny production to make

597
00:37:47,764 --> 00:37:51,068
it as

598
00:37:51,196 --> 00:37:54,876
perfect, I mean, as perfect as you can. I mean,

599
00:37:54,940 --> 00:37:58,548
as perfect as you think it can be, or it should

600
00:37:58,596 --> 00:38:02,030
be. And yeah, we go into

601
00:38:02,102 --> 00:38:05,694
details on everything to make this

602
00:38:05,774 --> 00:38:09,074
really tiny production. And at the end we have a rose.

603
00:38:10,134 --> 00:38:13,974
I mean, you should tell that, but my

604
00:38:14,014 --> 00:38:17,714
ambition is to have a rose that can age,

605
00:38:18,014 --> 00:38:21,834
that have the complexity, that have the texture, that

606
00:38:22,174 --> 00:38:25,730
everything that you can expect from

607
00:38:25,922 --> 00:38:29,714
a grand vin. Yeah, nice wine. And

608
00:38:29,874 --> 00:38:33,306
maybe a wine that you think of

609
00:38:33,450 --> 00:38:36,614
during your day because you are going to open it.

610
00:38:37,114 --> 00:38:40,898
That's right. I want to think about that as well. You know, that's. I just,

611
00:38:40,946 --> 00:38:44,146
it just hit me as you're explaining that if we're in

612
00:38:44,170 --> 00:38:47,874
Bordeaux and we were growing Merlot, Cabernet, Petite Verdot

613
00:38:47,914 --> 00:38:51,614
franc or whatever. Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, whatever, we're growing.

614
00:38:52,104 --> 00:38:55,688
The winemaker is blending the character of these grapes. They're from different

615
00:38:55,736 --> 00:38:59,504
terroir, probably. But more importantly, we're blending the character of

616
00:38:59,544 --> 00:39:02,664
that vinification of that grape.

617
00:39:02,784 --> 00:39:06,392
Okay. If we go to Burgundy and we're only growing Pinot noir,

618
00:39:06,448 --> 00:39:10,168
and we, I mean, you would be probably shot and

619
00:39:10,216 --> 00:39:13,044
hung if you took, you know,

620
00:39:13,584 --> 00:39:17,432
Romani Conti or a Bosny Romani district and blended it with a

621
00:39:17,448 --> 00:39:21,230
bone, you know, and you, you call it Burgon, you're going to be shot.

622
00:39:21,302 --> 00:39:24,834
You know, you couldn't do that. And it seems challenging to me

623
00:39:25,134 --> 00:39:28,950
that you are now not blending grapes. Cause of course, you're using different grapes,

624
00:39:28,982 --> 00:39:32,278
but you really are trying to structure three different

625
00:39:32,326 --> 00:39:36,174
terroir, not three different grapes from the same

626
00:39:36,214 --> 00:39:39,926
place or the same grape from two different places. You're

627
00:39:39,950 --> 00:39:43,646
talking about three distinctly different wines

628
00:39:43,710 --> 00:39:47,154
because of where they're grown. And balance that

629
00:39:47,194 --> 00:39:50,334
into etoile. What a challenge.

630
00:39:50,994 --> 00:39:54,426
Because you're picky. I mean, your palate is gonna be very refined to

631
00:39:54,490 --> 00:39:57,934
understand these three terroir. Yeah, but

632
00:39:58,714 --> 00:40:02,298
you've tasted yesterday, side by side, the three states,

633
00:40:02,426 --> 00:40:06,066
and we make them exactly the same way.

634
00:40:06,170 --> 00:40:09,882
Our Vichy culture is pretty much the same. But for me,

635
00:40:09,938 --> 00:40:13,074
the terroir and the type of grapes are really,

636
00:40:14,934 --> 00:40:18,714
as, they have to be really close. I mean, that means that

637
00:40:19,054 --> 00:40:22,766
there are places where we can grow easily,

638
00:40:22,870 --> 00:40:26,406
and I think it's the right type of

639
00:40:26,430 --> 00:40:30,238
grape, maybe Grenache and some other

640
00:40:30,286 --> 00:40:33,910
places we cannot. So we need to

641
00:40:33,942 --> 00:40:37,262
adapt the type of grapes, the terroir. Oh, from the

642
00:40:37,278 --> 00:40:38,774
terroir. And

643
00:40:41,714 --> 00:40:44,938
I think it's. I mean, they are so

644
00:40:44,986 --> 00:40:48,786
different. The way we make them is exactly

645
00:40:48,810 --> 00:40:52,050
the same again. And the tasting at the end is so different

646
00:40:52,242 --> 00:40:55,802
that I really feel the characteristic of each

647
00:40:55,858 --> 00:40:59,094
state. So then when it's about

648
00:40:59,434 --> 00:41:03,186
making the blend for Etoile, I know exactly what we

649
00:41:03,210 --> 00:41:07,060
are going to tip. Yeah. Which character we are

650
00:41:07,092 --> 00:41:10,628
going to keep from. From one cuvette to the other, and

651
00:41:10,796 --> 00:41:14,036
to make the, at the end, the final blend of it. And so how has

652
00:41:14,060 --> 00:41:17,904
it toile been received in general by the rose public?

653
00:41:19,804 --> 00:41:23,628
I think it's, again, the world is

654
00:41:23,676 --> 00:41:26,984
large and the production is small also. How much are you making?

655
00:41:27,364 --> 00:41:30,864
5000 bottles. Oh, wow. Yeah. So it's 400

656
00:41:30,904 --> 00:41:34,664
cases. Yeah, yeah. So it's. That's very small.

657
00:41:34,744 --> 00:41:38,496
Yeah. I mean, for the whole world. Yeah. And if you want to leave

658
00:41:38,520 --> 00:41:42,016
some of it in Saint Tropez instead of Marseille and some of Monaco, you've got.

659
00:41:42,080 --> 00:41:45,792
Yeah, exactly. And, uh, no, but the. Yeah, the market,

660
00:41:45,848 --> 00:41:49,524
I mean, people who love our

661
00:41:50,144 --> 00:41:53,888
wines, they are really. I mean, they are really

662
00:41:53,936 --> 00:41:57,674
happy, and, I mean, no complaint at all about

663
00:41:57,794 --> 00:42:01,186
Etoile. Obviously, it's a tiny

664
00:42:01,210 --> 00:42:04,954
production, but I really feel that it's pretty good for

665
00:42:04,994 --> 00:42:08,214
the image of domeno, but the image of Jose in general.

666
00:42:08,514 --> 00:42:12,258
And that was also the goal, if you

667
00:42:12,266 --> 00:42:15,866
can imagine. We're almost out of time. I mean, it's already been

668
00:42:15,890 --> 00:42:19,722
45 minutes. It always ceases

669
00:42:19,778 --> 00:42:23,486
to amaze me or never ceases to amaze me. That's the case. But

670
00:42:23,630 --> 00:42:26,794
the future plans, you're testing grapes,

671
00:42:27,454 --> 00:42:30,806
they've got things like Turriga Nationale and syrah in

672
00:42:30,830 --> 00:42:34,302
Bordeaux. Now, the AOC of the

673
00:42:34,318 --> 00:42:37,834
provence provide for experimentation.

674
00:42:38,134 --> 00:42:41,514
And what are we trying to do? We trying to find

675
00:42:43,334 --> 00:42:46,854
grapes that are acclimated or create

676
00:42:46,894 --> 00:42:50,660
wines of completely different character. What's going on out there for that

677
00:42:50,692 --> 00:42:53,988
in the future? What have you planted, lisse?

678
00:42:54,076 --> 00:42:57,540
Nah, actually, the AOC is working on it because

679
00:42:57,652 --> 00:42:58,584
everybody

680
00:43:01,324 --> 00:43:02,984
is conscious that.

681
00:43:05,444 --> 00:43:08,956
We. Might have to adapt our viticulture and

682
00:43:09,020 --> 00:43:10,744
our sepage.

683
00:43:13,764 --> 00:43:16,944
I think we don't want to wait. I mean, I don't want to wait

684
00:43:17,724 --> 00:43:20,864
for people to make tries on everything.

685
00:43:23,554 --> 00:43:27,162
As I told you, in some places, you

686
00:43:27,178 --> 00:43:31,014
cannot grow Grenache or you cannot grow Cabernet Sauvignon.

687
00:43:31,514 --> 00:43:34,858
So we need to find the

688
00:43:34,946 --> 00:43:37,974
good type of grapes that fits

689
00:43:41,274 --> 00:43:44,294
with our terroir. And

690
00:43:44,954 --> 00:43:48,716
when I talk about terroir, I also talk about, obviously, the

691
00:43:48,740 --> 00:43:52,020
soil, but also the weather, the climate in general.

692
00:43:52,132 --> 00:43:55,184
And so, yeah, we.

693
00:43:55,964 --> 00:43:59,644
We need to know. And. But again, it's a long process.

694
00:43:59,724 --> 00:44:03,516
I mean, it's not for today. It's gonna be for 20 years from now or

695
00:44:03,540 --> 00:44:05,584
30 years from now. And

696
00:44:08,684 --> 00:44:12,284
first, to tell you the truth, first, I have

697
00:44:12,324 --> 00:44:15,748
tasted a lot of wines from

698
00:44:15,836 --> 00:44:19,580
new type of grapes. I mean, not new, but the type of

699
00:44:19,612 --> 00:44:23,092
grape that they are using in hot and

700
00:44:23,148 --> 00:44:26,852
dry regions. And when I like

701
00:44:26,908 --> 00:44:29,464
one, I try to

702
00:44:31,644 --> 00:44:35,316
plant some in our terroir and see

703
00:44:35,340 --> 00:44:39,132
the result if it does work. So

704
00:44:39,148 --> 00:44:42,566
here's an interesting thought I did. I had a

705
00:44:42,590 --> 00:44:45,934
podcast with a gentleman in the middle of

706
00:44:45,974 --> 00:44:49,526
America in St. Louis, Missouri, and he

707
00:44:49,550 --> 00:44:53,314
decided that he would repropagate, replant

708
00:44:54,054 --> 00:44:57,886
american indigenous wine grapes. Okay, we have

709
00:44:57,910 --> 00:45:01,594
no Vidis vinifera here. It's Vidis Lambrusco.

710
00:45:02,454 --> 00:45:05,956
So he planted, I'm gonna say, 20 different ancient

711
00:45:06,150 --> 00:45:09,400
american varieties. And he's in the hills of the

712
00:45:09,432 --> 00:45:12,564
Missouri. And I told him, I said, you know,

713
00:45:13,024 --> 00:45:16,592
you have nothing to work from. You have no history.

714
00:45:16,768 --> 00:45:20,616
You don't even know what these wines are supposed to taste like. You don't

715
00:45:20,640 --> 00:45:24,168
know what they tasted like back then, and you don't know what they'll do. You

716
00:45:24,176 --> 00:45:26,816
don't know what altitude they do better, and you don't know what soil they do

717
00:45:26,840 --> 00:45:30,080
better, and you don't know anything. And I thought, wow, all the

718
00:45:30,112 --> 00:45:33,854
combinations of terroir that could go into this, this winemaking, this guy

719
00:45:33,894 --> 00:45:37,670
has to create. In your case, if you're planning

720
00:45:37,782 --> 00:45:41,422
to reganacinate, say you're sort of got some,

721
00:45:41,518 --> 00:45:45,286
you've got some footing because you understand the terroir, but you don't understand how that

722
00:45:45,310 --> 00:45:49,134
grape is going to do. So it's going to take 20 years to

723
00:45:49,174 --> 00:45:52,790
have some understanding of it. Yeah. You know, between planting

724
00:45:52,862 --> 00:45:56,670
and having the first harvest, it lasts at least four years.

725
00:45:56,702 --> 00:46:00,272
Four years. And then when they are

726
00:46:00,368 --> 00:46:04,184
only four years, they are young, so maybe they are going to be better in

727
00:46:04,224 --> 00:46:07,824
ten years. So, you know, it's all, it's. Everything

728
00:46:07,904 --> 00:46:11,096
is about time in the

729
00:46:11,120 --> 00:46:14,632
wine industry, I would say. But

730
00:46:14,768 --> 00:46:16,244
there is also a thing,

731
00:46:18,224 --> 00:46:21,960
and that what I think what I learned in working

732
00:46:22,032 --> 00:46:25,044
in farming,

733
00:46:25,674 --> 00:46:29,034
you never know. I mean, there are so many things going

734
00:46:29,114 --> 00:46:32,706
up at the same time from

735
00:46:32,770 --> 00:46:36,490
one vintage to the other. You need to change everything.

736
00:46:36,642 --> 00:46:40,174
You need to adapt. Every day is different.

737
00:46:40,674 --> 00:46:44,282
Sometimes it rains in May, sometimes it's June.

738
00:46:44,378 --> 00:46:48,194
Sometimes it doesn't rain. Sometimes it's

739
00:46:48,234 --> 00:46:51,922
hot, sometimes it's cold. So everything

740
00:46:51,978 --> 00:46:55,682
is different. So, yeah, when you need to change

741
00:46:55,858 --> 00:46:59,442
something, like the type of grape, I mean, it's a big job.

742
00:46:59,498 --> 00:47:03,330
So it's a big job. We just need to start now

743
00:47:03,522 --> 00:47:07,130
to be able to adapt our vitriculture, adapt

744
00:47:07,162 --> 00:47:10,666
to our blending if we need, and if we

745
00:47:10,690 --> 00:47:14,226
don't, it's okay. I mean, we've. We would have learned a

746
00:47:14,250 --> 00:47:18,034
lot. Thank you for spending the time this morning. I know you

747
00:47:18,034 --> 00:47:21,164
have a full day ahead of you. You're going to be back in this facility

748
00:47:21,244 --> 00:47:25,020
tonight for another dinner. How long is this trip

749
00:47:25,052 --> 00:47:28,812
for you? Is it just LA? Are you going to be. No, actually, I

750
00:47:28,828 --> 00:47:32,596
was in New York. New York already? Yeah, last

751
00:47:32,660 --> 00:47:36,396
week. And I'm going to move to San Francisco and back to

752
00:47:36,420 --> 00:47:39,788
France. Wow. I mean, it's springtime. I think I need to.

753
00:47:39,836 --> 00:47:43,420
Yeah, that's right. The season started, right? I mean,

754
00:47:43,452 --> 00:47:47,140
yeah. The beaches of Saint Tropez are full. Yeah. And, you know, at

755
00:47:47,172 --> 00:47:50,498
this time of the year, I mean, in the vineyard, we

756
00:47:50,546 --> 00:47:54,374
have really a big job to do, and we are

757
00:47:54,674 --> 00:47:58,378
preparing, obviously, the harvest. But, you know,

758
00:47:58,426 --> 00:48:02,130
when we work well, between May and

759
00:48:02,282 --> 00:48:05,970
end of June, we are almost done for the harvest. I mean, we

760
00:48:06,002 --> 00:48:09,466
made. If the job is well done at this time, we

761
00:48:09,490 --> 00:48:12,930
made 85% of the job. It's Bud break right now.

762
00:48:13,002 --> 00:48:16,278
Exactly. Well, thank you for being here this morning. Thank you.

763
00:48:16,326 --> 00:48:18,234
Cheers. Thank you.

764
00:48:27,094 --> 00:48:30,470
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul Callum, Cary. And don't forget to

765
00:48:30,502 --> 00:48:33,654
subscribe because there's more great interviews on their way.

766
00:48:33,814 --> 00:48:37,134
Folks, have a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.