Be Inspired.
May 1, 2024

A Very Cerebral Wine Approach Delivers Thoughtful Wine. Meet Winemaker Reid Kinnett.

A Very Cerebral Wine Approach Delivers Thoughtful Wine. Meet Winemaker Reid Kinnett.

So, who is Reid Kinnett....and what makes him passionate? 1. Reid Kinnett uses DNA testing to confirm the authenticity of indigenous Vitis vinifera grapes. 2. Reid swapped 15 cases of wine for his first ton of grapes in 2021. 3. Reid Kinnett blends a...

So, who is Reid Kinnett....and what makes him passionate?

1. Reid Kinnett uses DNA testing to confirm the authenticity of indigenous Vitis vinifera grapes.

2. Reid swapped 15 cases of wine for his first ton of grapes in 2021.

3. Reid Kinnett blends a little Petite Syrah with his Zinfandel to enhance its profile.

4. Reid Kinnett is involved in making Zinfandel with no residual sugar, focusing on an acid-driven and medium-bodied profile.

What you will learn in this podcast.

In this insightful episode of "Wine Talks," host Paul K engaged with guest Reid Kinnett in a thought-provoking discussion about the evolving landscape of wine production in California. Reid, an experienced assistant winemaker participating in Zinfandel and Napa Valley Cabernet productions, shared his journey from the wholesale trade to owning a successful retail store and now focusing on producing restrained, balanced wines.

The conversation highlighted a shift back toward more structured, balanced wines in California, moving away from the extremely opulent styles of the late '90s and early 2000s. The episode also touched on the challenges of maintaining authenticity and expressing terroir. Another interesting topic discussed was the use of alternative packaging like canned wines and tetra packs that aim to reduce carbon footprints and appeal to new consumer bases without sacrificing quality.

Reid and Paul delved into the broader impacts of consumerism on wine production and the importance of understanding the various aesthetic experiences offered by different wines. Discussing marketing strategies, they emphasized the importance of slow growth and establishing a unique selling proposition in a competitive market. The educational and engaging dialogue encapsulated the traditions of winemaking while highlighting modern innovations in the industry.

Transcript
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Hey, welcome to wine talks with Paul Cade. We are in studio today about to

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have a conversation with Reid Connet. Calls himself

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winemaker, assistant winemaker. Introductions in just a moment. Hey, have a listen to

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Yves de Launay. He is an expert in luxury

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goods, having been with Sotheby's Cartier

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LVMH, selling Louis XIII Cognac, and now with

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Chateau Angelouz in Bordeaux and Saint Emilion. Incredible

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conversation about lifestyle and the consumerism. Also,

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crazy good conversation with Michael Higgins. He is a

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wine photojournalist and has written three wine travel books.

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We're going to Bordeaux in May. I'm taking his Bordeaux book with me

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because it's got so much inside information. Inside baseball in Bordeaux,

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but also written one in Argentina and Central coast. Hey,

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subscribe on your favorite podcast platform.

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If you have nothing nice to say, don't say it. But if you do, give

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me a nice review. It's good for the podcast and we get more viewers and

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more shows on the road. Hey, always find what you love at

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Curbside pickup and delivery available in most areas. Visit

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totalwine.com to learn more. Spirits not sold in

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Virginia or North Carolina drink responsibly. Be

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21. Never understood what that meant. I guess if

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you just, just say, be 21. Welcome to the show,

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Reed. Yeah, thank you. Somebody said, well, they mean you have to be

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21 to drink. I said, we know that, but like, be

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21. Put some effort into it. Yeah, imperative be 21.

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Yeah, fine. That's no problem. So, hey, welcome to the show. Glad you're done here.

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What are you doing down in SoCal today, this week, anyway? Yeah, I'm down in

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Southern California trying to do some sales, pay for some

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grapes. So I've got kind of a

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tangled web of things I'm involved with.

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I have a personal brand of 90 cases or

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three barrels of wine of Zinfandel called fairy ring.

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And then I also have a wine that I make called toy

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box for a client. And that's Napa Valley

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Cabernet mainly. And then

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also I am the assistant winemaker at a

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winery in Petaluma in downtown Petaluma called Brooksnote, and we're

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Pinot noir specialists. You know, Petaluma, I had

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trombetta on the call on the show a while ago last year,

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probably sometime, Ricky, actually. Yeah, I think it was during COVID actually.

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But, you know, that was, she was part of the instrumental getting

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petaluma as an appellated place. And it's so obvious,

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you know, to me, when you taste the wines from Petaluma, that they deserved and

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needed to have their own appellation. But the

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headwinds to doing this are so complicated. But they are

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fascinating wines. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, it's an interesting

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place. I mean, Sonoma coast was, I think, a frustrating

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appellation for people before, and now

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it's been carved up into so many pieces

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with west Sonoma coast and

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Fort Ross Seaview, and that coming earlier

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on, and then the Petaluma gap in 2017.

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There's definitely distinctions there. The petaluma gap's really cool, though, because

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it crosses county lines, for one, like Carneros does,

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and it crosses a bunch of soil types, which is

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not very common within the Avas. And it's all

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based on the patterns of the wind. It's not just russian river anymore, is

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it? No. Sonoma being such a large swath of land for wine

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and having such, like you said, diverse districts. I mean,

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seaview, Fort Ross,

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amazing. You know, terroir for P and o. It's kind of interesting to

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me. Maybe you could take it, give your take on this. You're young in this

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industry. You came here when to

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start this idea of getting into this whack job

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business? Well, you know, I. My opinion of

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that, absolutely. Yeah. No, we're all nuts, for sure.

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So I was a server in bartender in Long

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beach in the mid two thousands, and another industry full of whack

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jobs. That's true. Maybe

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the whack job part is the passion, because you're so passionate about something that

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you come off as just like. You must be a zealot. Yeah.

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And capable of making good decisions. Right.

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That's funny. So, yeah, I

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really got interested in wines while I was working as a

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server. I was working in a

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place called Virginia Country Club with my friend Ernie Henson back in the

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early two thousands. And he was the bar manager there. And he would call me

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in for tastings and learned a lot

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that way. And then I ended up working at a short lived restaurant called Da

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Vinci, right on Long beach airport for a little while,

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and really learned a ton with my friends Corey

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and Zeke there about italian wines. And

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that was just incredible

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experience there. You think that happens a lot,

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that a bartender, waitress, waiter, a server,

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actually embraces this mysterious world called wine, and they just

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kind of go through their day and just forget about it. I mean, I think

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that's the way to wine and wine professionals for a

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lot of people. I think a lot of wine reps

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have kind of come through that pipeline, for sure. And there

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are a fair amount of winemakers

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that have gone through that route as well. I can't think of any

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off the top of my head. These sams have gotten involved, clearly, in

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the last ten years in making wine quite a bit like Rajpar and folks like

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that. I mean, you're out there serving, and you

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look, I did this for 35 years. I keep saying this, but

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some of the employees that came through here embrace it. Many, after we sold the

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company, went on to continue their career in the industry. On the

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admin side, some could care less. And so I would look at

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blank stares when I'm tasting through the wines with the staff because I wanted them

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to know. Right. And other ones were taking notes, trying to figure it out, you

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know? Yeah. Even for me, I was. I did this probably for

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15 years before I started realizing how cool it is. Yeah. You

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know, I mean, I think wine has a way of finding the people

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that, you know, that are just interested

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and curious about, you know? And that's the thing with me, is, like,

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I just love the intersectionality of wine. There are so many different

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entry points, whether it's history or science or agriculture or art.

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It's just endlessly fascinating. I like that word

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crossroads, because I'm following some folks on

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LinkedIn and whatever, and it's a younger generation,

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obviously, than I am, everybody younger than I am. But

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they think they're being disruptive, which is the new word of an

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industry. That is not disruptible, really, in my

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opinion. Or if it is to be, it's very slow to

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do because

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it's steeped in tradition, and I don't think there's anything wrong with that. I think

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there's something to be said about that and that we have to honor that

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rather than try to change it, because

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changing it, you know, hey, there's too many crossroads, you

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know? Yeah, I just thought of that. If you're gonna change the wine

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trade, then you're gonna affect the crossroads of those. Of

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that intersection. Yeah. I mean, you know, I think

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that's a pretty grand view of yourself, to think that you're a disruptor in something

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that's thousands of years old. Right. That's my general

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contention, yeah. I mean, we live within

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a, you know, a tiny sliver of time

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compared to the history of wine. Right. Yeah. You know, and

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I was listening to your podcast with Brian Talley

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on my way down here, and it was either him or Doug

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Frost talking about

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how we're drinking the best wine now that we ever have. Right. And I

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think, well, we can stay on the subject for a

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second. Disrupting

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the. I don't know, maybe they're trying to

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disrupt the outlook of the consumer on wine or the way the

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wine industry looks out to the consumer. And I have this

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contention that canned wines, tetra packs,

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somebody just came out with a paper box, which is tetra

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pack, but it's a little bit different. Trying to reduce the carbon footprint. I

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think that's important. Sustainability is a part of our industry. If anybody's to be

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sustainable, the wine industry should be. But

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at the same time, the quality and the ethereal value of that

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glass of wine couldn't change or shouldn't change

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unless you are just drinking for alcohol. And that's. Hardly anybody does drink

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wine just for the alcohol. There's other ways to do that.

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So I'm interested to peel this back

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further with younger generations like you

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to understand. Let me just turn off this do not disturb. Whatever you gotta do

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here. What do you gotta do? Oh, focus. There it is. Do not disturb. Okay.

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So I see those things as

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blips, cans, tetra packs, trying

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to solve a political problem rather

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than this passion problem, you know, this passion about wine. Yeah,

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well, I mean, I think that there's a

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sincere, I think, desire for a lot of people to actually decrease the

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carbon footprint. And I love that idea. You know, topless Creek's doing

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bag and box with, you know, their rose and bedrock's got the

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odalulu and bag and box

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as well, so. And I think that,

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like, you know, there are wines that you put in the

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cellar and there are wines that you drink soon. And I think

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also, you know, it opens up

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new consumers. Some people are going to

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look at a can and say, you know what? That's like my

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vibe versus all the pomp and

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circumstance with a wax on your bottle and

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all that stuff. I think that's accurate. I think that's very accurate.

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Consumerism is what drives this and always has driven this industry.

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Yeah. And you kind of want to. I always kind of want to put wine

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on this pedestal and it's like, this is the way it is. This is what

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we're going to be you're going to enjoy it or you're not going to enjoy

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it. You figure it out. You don't figure it out, whatever you want to do

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with it. But I think you're right. I think the consumer drives the

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need for some of these changes, but I don't think

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it changes the value of that glass of wine as to why you

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drink it. Right. How you drink is probably one thing, but why

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you drink it's another. Yeah, I mean, I. You know, I have different beverages

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for different times. You know, like, so modelo

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especial, you know, on a hot day when I don't feel like being

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challenged, an orange

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wine on those days where I'm feeling like being pensive or something,

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but in general, I would like my

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wine to come from a certain place and

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evoke a certain kind of feeling.

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I've always tried to, through this club,

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after all this time, to get a

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consumer to the point where they feel like

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something to drink and it changes. In other words,

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you and I come home from work and we go. Like you said, I feel

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like a modelo. I often feel like gin. But if I'm in

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the wine world at that moment, do I feel like a burgundy or a

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pinot, or do I feel like a cab or do I feel like a

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lean wine from Spain? I mean,

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whatever memory

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that those wines have evoked in you, that you feel like that.

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And one night, not that long ago, I opened three different bottles before I

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got to a profile that I was trying to crave. Yeah.

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Yeah. That's frustrating. Yes. Well, you know, my wife drank one of

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them. Yeah. But that was my objective, was just to

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have people understand the nuances and not necessarily understand why or what

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you, you know, whether it's clay or slate or whatever, who cares at that point?

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Cause I think the wine industry does self propagate. The

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aristocracy that, you know, has plagued the industry. But if you

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can get people to understand that there's a difference between a petaluma gap

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pinot and one from the central coast, you know,

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we've kind of done what we've done. Yeah, absolutely. Are you trying

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to pull out of these wines that you're making that

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exact story, that the terroir like this is where it's coming

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from? Yeah, I mean, I think that

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if you're not. I mean, we all want to make a delicious wine. That's gotta

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be the goal. And clearly, you're working with

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factors with weather and

220
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things like that, that kind of push decisions one way or the other, and

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logistical challenges and things like that. But if you're not

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trying to make, in the world of fine wine, a wine that's

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expressing a site, I don't know why

224
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you're doing it. And that's the magic, especially with something like Pinot

225
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Noir. Pinot noir is just so expressive of sight.

226
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Is that the objective I see at your toy box? Which is funny, I looked

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up in my database of tasted wines, which I've tracked

228
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everything I've ever tasted, at least here at the office, all the stuff I've

229
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tasted off campus doesn't get recorded. Well, it does get

230
00:14:15,772 --> 00:14:19,590
manually recorded. Is that your objective with toy box?

231
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Is like, produce something, or is the proprietor of toy

232
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Box more interested in just getting a value oriented wine

233
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that has a little less character based on terroir because they get

234
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a better price, or what's the objective? Well, I think

235
00:14:35,334 --> 00:14:38,990
our top tier wine, generally, year

236
00:14:39,022 --> 00:14:42,786
over year, is going to be our Cabernet Sauvignon, and

237
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that's a Napa Valley appalated wine.

238
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And with that, it's something we sell on our website for $90

239
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a bottle. So at that price point, I think

240
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that you've got to be doing more than just making something that

241
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tastes good. You've got to be getting to that next level.

242
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And particularly when it says Napa Valley on the label, you've got to be

243
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achieving a. A certain level of quality and then a certain level of

244
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typicity. And what do you think's happened with Napa and

245
00:15:12,652 --> 00:15:16,224
its typicity? It's a good word.

246
00:15:16,764 --> 00:15:19,516
You know, if you'd look, if you talk to some folks that are sort of

247
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new into Napa wines, they're going to tell you about silver oak and camus and

248
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these sort of fruit forward big bombs, extracted wines.

249
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Sure. And then the other day, I had a

250
00:15:29,436 --> 00:15:32,628
wonderfully balanced, structured,

251
00:15:32,796 --> 00:15:36,548
acidic napa cab. And that would. That excited

252
00:15:36,596 --> 00:15:40,208
me, that, you know, enthused me that we're not headed down this path of

253
00:15:40,356 --> 00:15:43,752
sheer opulence in a wine. Absolutely. I

254
00:15:43,768 --> 00:15:47,360
think my goal is to strike a balance with that. And I know that

255
00:15:47,392 --> 00:15:51,168
that's clearly a subjective word, and about ten

256
00:15:51,216 --> 00:15:54,984
years ago was a real controversial word in the wine

257
00:15:55,024 --> 00:15:58,720
industry. But I can tell

258
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that you and I probably like a similar style of wine where

259
00:16:02,600 --> 00:16:06,272
there's good structure and acidity in the wine. It's something you can age in the

260
00:16:06,288 --> 00:16:09,744
cellar and it's something that's not destroying your palate

261
00:16:09,904 --> 00:16:13,724
with tannin and oak after a sip. And so

262
00:16:14,064 --> 00:16:17,792
I think that we've definitely seen the pendulum swing back. I

263
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think that the wines of

264
00:16:21,552 --> 00:16:25,352
the late nineties and two thousands got really out of

265
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control. And I came up being interested in

266
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european wines. And I

267
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think in this last ten or 15 years, we've

268
00:16:36,416 --> 00:16:40,184
really seen a lot of new California producers producing wines that are more restraint

269
00:16:40,224 --> 00:16:43,416
and balanced. And there's people that have been doing it the whole time, like Kathy

270
00:16:43,440 --> 00:16:47,240
Corson making some of the most

271
00:16:47,272 --> 00:16:50,720
elegant cabernets out of Napa Valley, for sure. Steve Mathias.

272
00:16:50,752 --> 00:16:54,472
And has been kind

273
00:16:54,488 --> 00:16:57,616
of the lead, the tip of the spear with that kind of new

274
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California producing more restrained,

275
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acid driven and structured wines. But there are

276
00:17:05,122 --> 00:17:08,714
a bunch of others too. I really like the wines from

277
00:17:08,754 --> 00:17:12,586
cade. I like the wines at Lark Mead. Have been

278
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really great over the years. And those are the wines that, to

279
00:17:16,290 --> 00:17:19,634
me, they have a nice, rich fruit

280
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profile but not too much oak and pronounced

281
00:17:23,226 --> 00:17:27,014
acidity that really reign all that fruit in.

282
00:17:28,044 --> 00:17:31,580
I would say, you know, those are some of the wines that

283
00:17:31,612 --> 00:17:35,036
inspire me from Napa. It's kind of funny. We've

284
00:17:35,060 --> 00:17:38,516
had, at least compared to the Europeans, we have a young

285
00:17:38,580 --> 00:17:42,300
industry, but compared to other countries. I'm gonna pick

286
00:17:42,332 --> 00:17:46,068
on Armenia a little bit because it's my heritage. But I've been there and

287
00:17:46,076 --> 00:17:49,772
I've tasted a lot of wines. And here's this infant, infant industry. Even though

288
00:17:49,788 --> 00:17:53,196
it's been around 6000 years at least as we know

289
00:17:53,220 --> 00:17:56,850
of since the soviet rule, which

290
00:17:56,882 --> 00:18:00,338
was. I had this conversation last night with somebody

291
00:18:00,466 --> 00:18:03,906
that no progress was made in winemaking

292
00:18:04,010 --> 00:18:07,690
during the USSR. And so when countries

293
00:18:07,762 --> 00:18:10,674
like Armenia and Hungary and

294
00:18:10,834 --> 00:18:14,490
Croatia, not Croatia, but Lithuania,

295
00:18:14,562 --> 00:18:18,026
became free, really the industry started

296
00:18:18,090 --> 00:18:21,690
over all these techniques. There were no techniques

297
00:18:21,722 --> 00:18:24,946
and nobody really cared. And it was the old farmer who was just making grapes

298
00:18:24,970 --> 00:18:28,334
for brandy. And that's what they were doing. So they're really, really quite young.

299
00:18:28,714 --> 00:18:32,522
And prohibition here did the same thing, right? Yeah, that's true.

300
00:18:32,578 --> 00:18:36,234
Yeah. Pretty much prohibition. The same thing. We went to the prohibition museum in

301
00:18:36,274 --> 00:18:40,122
Savannah, Georgia last two weeks ago. Yeah, that's pretty cool. Sorry, I didn't

302
00:18:40,138 --> 00:18:43,586
mean to take you off topic. You know, actually knew stories that I. That I

303
00:18:43,610 --> 00:18:47,346
had not heard because I've read books on prohibition. You know,

304
00:18:47,450 --> 00:18:51,216
let's just touch on. It's really funny when people think that

305
00:18:51,290 --> 00:18:54,436
prohibition outlawed drinking. It did not outlaw drinking. It outlawed

306
00:18:54,460 --> 00:18:58,244
manufacturing for the purposes of retail sale and

307
00:18:58,364 --> 00:19:01,884
bars. You could make booze at home and you

308
00:19:01,924 --> 00:19:05,748
could wine and you could drink it. It wasn't illegal to drink.

309
00:19:05,796 --> 00:19:08,916
Everybody challenges me on that, but I know that's the case. Well, yeah. I mean,

310
00:19:08,940 --> 00:19:12,428
they were sending train loads full of grapes back

311
00:19:12,556 --> 00:19:15,304
east. And you talk to all these

312
00:19:16,404 --> 00:19:20,028
guys. They're like, oh, these italian guys. Yeah, my grandfather made wine in the

313
00:19:20,036 --> 00:19:23,816
bathtub and all that stuff. And it was legal. It was perfectly fine

314
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:27,684
to do that. It was actually a great trade, the truckloads of.

315
00:19:28,104 --> 00:19:31,032
And that's just a section. There's a chapter in one of the books I was

316
00:19:31,048 --> 00:19:34,760
reading. It was just about the perils of transporting grapes in

317
00:19:34,792 --> 00:19:38,624
train cars during parts of the year, you know, that

318
00:19:38,784 --> 00:19:42,416
destroyed. But we're getting back to what we're talking about. The

319
00:19:42,440 --> 00:19:46,056
Armenians are challenged with the idea of oak, let's

320
00:19:46,080 --> 00:19:49,800
say. I don't think their indigenous grape, Adoni, does well with oak.

321
00:19:49,832 --> 00:19:53,416
And I have confirmation, and I have agreement on many winemakers from that

322
00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,524
area. But in the world of winemaking,

323
00:19:57,224 --> 00:20:00,856
you should put oak in it. And all the great cabernet from Napa have oak,

324
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:04,576
and all the great Bordeauxs have oak and burgundy, and so we gotta put

325
00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:07,764
oak. And not everything does well with oak. And so it takes

326
00:20:08,464 --> 00:20:11,604
vintages and vintages, vintages and generations almost

327
00:20:11,984 --> 00:20:15,752
to land on where some of this stuff from where you're

328
00:20:15,768 --> 00:20:19,536
buying your grapes or from the vineyards, which wines and which grapes. I guess that's

329
00:20:19,560 --> 00:20:23,090
your skill set requirement. How do you feel about where you're at with that?

330
00:20:23,202 --> 00:20:26,946
Oh, with oak? Yeah. With your training and the number

331
00:20:26,970 --> 00:20:30,814
of vintages you've done and how much you want to learn more and what,

332
00:20:31,114 --> 00:20:34,674
I. Mean, I think no matter how long you've been doing it, there's always

333
00:20:34,794 --> 00:20:38,562
something to learn. And I think if you're really dedicated to

334
00:20:38,578 --> 00:20:41,214
your craft, that you're always exploring

335
00:20:42,434 --> 00:20:46,106
new ideas. Those costly sometimes, like, you

336
00:20:46,130 --> 00:20:49,926
know, well, I'm gonna carbonic. I'm gonna macerate the grapes

337
00:20:49,950 --> 00:20:52,630
carbonically and see what happens all of a sudden. Oh, my God. That didn't work.

338
00:20:52,742 --> 00:20:56,318
Well, you gotta start small with anything. You've gotta be able

339
00:20:56,366 --> 00:21:00,070
to either say, okay, well, we're gonna bottle this

340
00:21:00,102 --> 00:21:03,314
50k slot of this one wacky thing,

341
00:21:04,534 --> 00:21:07,542
or be able to blend it away as a

342
00:21:07,558 --> 00:21:11,174
component and like, one of your other kind of

343
00:21:11,214 --> 00:21:14,786
bigger skus. My dad used to say back in the day, he says, you know,

344
00:21:14,810 --> 00:21:18,346
if they make a wine and it's not very good, you know, you may not

345
00:21:18,370 --> 00:21:20,498
want to put it in the bottle with your brand on it. So we're going

346
00:21:20,506 --> 00:21:24,186
to sell the juice, which we all know happens just for the listeners. I mean,

347
00:21:24,210 --> 00:21:27,994
like, it's a hard number to ascertain, but 85, 90%

348
00:21:28,034 --> 00:21:31,882
of wine is not bottled by the grower or made by

349
00:21:31,898 --> 00:21:35,322
the grower, it's bought and sold in bulk or bought and sold as grapes and

350
00:21:35,418 --> 00:21:39,050
maids, and that's just the way it is. And so sometimes it doesn't

351
00:21:39,082 --> 00:21:42,122
turn out and you put it in the bottle, blended with some other stuff and

352
00:21:42,138 --> 00:21:45,690
you kind of just move the volume around. That's.

353
00:21:45,802 --> 00:21:49,546
That's just the way the industry is, you know? Yeah. I mean, last year was

354
00:21:49,570 --> 00:21:53,258
a year where we had two of our growers that didn't sell all their grapes,

355
00:21:53,386 --> 00:21:57,130
and so we made

356
00:21:57,162 --> 00:22:00,850
a bunch of pinot noir and we're helping

357
00:22:00,882 --> 00:22:04,658
them sell it. Wow, that's great. Yeah, I mean, and it's going

358
00:22:04,666 --> 00:22:08,082
to make some really lovely wine for somebody. It's

359
00:22:08,098 --> 00:22:11,894
just we can't put it into our bottles, not because it's not good enough,

360
00:22:12,014 --> 00:22:15,354
but because we just don't have the ability to sell that much wine.

361
00:22:17,934 --> 00:22:21,390
One of the California agricultural agencies, I forgot which one, has

362
00:22:21,462 --> 00:22:25,230
recommended we pull out 50,000 vines of grapes

363
00:22:25,262 --> 00:22:28,830
because the glut and the change in consumerism and the reduction

364
00:22:28,862 --> 00:22:32,118
in volume, and we just need to plant

365
00:22:32,206 --> 00:22:35,764
pistachios and almonds and things like that. And I find that

366
00:22:35,844 --> 00:22:38,864
fascinating because I think also for the listeners,

367
00:22:40,164 --> 00:22:43,224
it's hard to get your arms around the fact that it's really an agricultural product

368
00:22:43,524 --> 00:22:47,140
and you don't have all the control in the world and it's based on

369
00:22:47,172 --> 00:22:50,972
demand and yields aren't always the same. And the

370
00:22:50,988 --> 00:22:54,236
boat turns slowly. Yeah, the boat turns slowly. That's the go. I like

371
00:22:54,260 --> 00:22:58,020
that. What were some of the headwinds that you, once you got into this

372
00:22:58,052 --> 00:23:01,790
industry, looked at this

373
00:23:01,822 --> 00:23:04,354
and he said, gee, I didn't expect this or,

374
00:23:05,214 --> 00:23:08,654
wow, that's unusual or anything that sort of

375
00:23:08,814 --> 00:23:12,614
stumped you, as they say, the marketing of wine. You're down

376
00:23:12,654 --> 00:23:16,422
here schlepping with your box, trying to sell some, get some people to

377
00:23:16,438 --> 00:23:19,806
taste the wines. Yeah, I

378
00:23:19,830 --> 00:23:23,550
think everyone's grappling right now, trying

379
00:23:23,582 --> 00:23:27,258
to figure out the market. Right. Things have

380
00:23:27,306 --> 00:23:30,954
changed. You know, I think, you know, when I came up in the

381
00:23:31,074 --> 00:23:34,610
early two thousands, there were no California producers, for the most part,

382
00:23:34,762 --> 00:23:38,562
trying to make european and inspired wines. I mean, there may

383
00:23:38,578 --> 00:23:42,242
have been a few people here and there, you know, Randall Graham's been,

384
00:23:42,298 --> 00:23:46,066
you know, kind of making interesting wines that are. Names

385
00:23:46,090 --> 00:23:49,722
them such. Yeah, yeah. And far from over the top,

386
00:23:49,778 --> 00:23:53,578
I think. But back, you know, now there's dozens

387
00:23:53,666 --> 00:23:56,654
and dozens of micro producers making

388
00:23:57,724 --> 00:24:01,132
wines under 14 or under 13, in a lot of cases,

389
00:24:01,268 --> 00:24:04,508
percent alcohol and acid driven and very little

390
00:24:04,556 --> 00:24:08,316
oak. And you've got

391
00:24:08,340 --> 00:24:11,292
a lot of options now. And you go and try to sell wine in San

392
00:24:11,308 --> 00:24:14,972
Francisco, and it's got to kind of achieve that style. That's

393
00:24:15,068 --> 00:24:18,772
the style of nearly every place you go in San

394
00:24:18,788 --> 00:24:22,584
Francisco wants that european style wine, which is wonderful

395
00:24:23,044 --> 00:24:26,830
as a drinker, but there's just a lot more competition. The. It's hard

396
00:24:26,862 --> 00:24:30,694
to find the points of differentiation and to find an angle

397
00:24:30,774 --> 00:24:34,398
and an entry point. And I think, just

398
00:24:34,486 --> 00:24:38,006
as it has always been, it ends up being about

399
00:24:38,110 --> 00:24:40,434
going out and meeting people. And

400
00:24:41,734 --> 00:24:45,518
it's a hand sell. Yeah, it's a hand sell, but it's like, you know,

401
00:24:45,606 --> 00:24:49,234
you've got to actually go out and meet people and make friends and

402
00:24:49,614 --> 00:24:53,262
tell the stories. And that's what it's really all about. I

403
00:24:53,278 --> 00:24:56,872
mean, when you talk about european style wines, and

404
00:24:57,048 --> 00:25:00,324
it wasn't that long ago, for instance, when we went to

405
00:25:00,624 --> 00:25:04,400
1989, I think it was the second year that the Pinot festival

406
00:25:04,432 --> 00:25:08,272
in Willama Valley was held. And they invited the Louis Jeddeaus and

407
00:25:08,288 --> 00:25:12,120
the Druins and all these folks to come and share, which is great

408
00:25:12,152 --> 00:25:15,576
about the industry. They do share their technology and their ideas.

409
00:25:15,720 --> 00:25:19,376
But most of the wines of the Willama Valley at that time were. There's only

410
00:25:19,400 --> 00:25:22,164
a few houses that were bigger. Bigger anyway.

411
00:25:23,504 --> 00:25:27,160
And the wines were okay. But it was a common

412
00:25:27,312 --> 00:25:31,136
thing to say, hey, this is very burgundian. And it was very common to

413
00:25:31,160 --> 00:25:34,392
say, this is Bordeaux esque, and you don't hear it as much

414
00:25:34,448 --> 00:25:38,048
anymore. But now you're saying, well, we're trying to make wines of the european

415
00:25:38,096 --> 00:25:41,656
style, which I understand that because we don't have. Well, I'm sure they have them.

416
00:25:41,680 --> 00:25:45,528
But coming through my doors here, we still try to get

417
00:25:45,576 --> 00:25:49,040
representative wines of the Provence or from Bordeaux or from wherever you're talking

418
00:25:49,072 --> 00:25:52,530
about. But do you talk like that behind the scenes? Well,

419
00:25:52,602 --> 00:25:56,266
so, I mean, just as a. To define you european in style, like,

420
00:25:56,330 --> 00:25:59,978
you know, I think that the reference point is

421
00:26:00,146 --> 00:26:03,978
basically those big, extracted, heavy wines that we

422
00:26:03,986 --> 00:26:07,754
were talking about dominating what, you know, traditionally

423
00:26:07,794 --> 00:26:11,594
we've thought of over the past 20 years as like a California wine. Right.

424
00:26:11,674 --> 00:26:15,370
And, you know, people either generally

425
00:26:15,402 --> 00:26:18,930
will like those bigger, richer wines or more restrained balance wines.

426
00:26:18,962 --> 00:26:22,346
And for the majority of the time, over the

427
00:26:22,370 --> 00:26:26,106
last 50 years, people that like those more restrained wines are gonna have to

428
00:26:26,130 --> 00:26:27,614
go to Europe to find those.

429
00:26:30,034 --> 00:26:33,786
And I think that there's

430
00:26:33,930 --> 00:26:37,490
blowback from a lot of people when you say

431
00:26:37,642 --> 00:26:39,414
burgundian or

432
00:26:40,834 --> 00:26:44,330
Bordeaux esque or whatever, because those are

433
00:26:44,362 --> 00:26:47,850
places. And of course, the EU is very protective

434
00:26:47,882 --> 00:26:51,730
of all of its place names. And so I understand

435
00:26:51,802 --> 00:26:55,490
that. And as a Chardonnay lover who has

436
00:26:55,522 --> 00:26:59,202
had many discussions with people about Chardonnay, when people

437
00:26:59,258 --> 00:27:02,834
say, oh, we make a lean, crisp style, and they say, it's like a chablis,

438
00:27:02,874 --> 00:27:06,682
I'm like, no, it is not. There's almost nothing

439
00:27:06,738 --> 00:27:10,362
like Chablis in the world. There's nothing like champagne in the world.

440
00:27:10,498 --> 00:27:14,330
And those are places that

441
00:27:14,362 --> 00:27:18,138
you can't. So I don't like evoking, necessarily a place name far

442
00:27:18,186 --> 00:27:21,866
away. Well, that was part of the

443
00:27:21,970 --> 00:27:25,722
culture in California wine, though. That's what you did. You would go to

444
00:27:25,738 --> 00:27:29,394
the tastings. I reflect

445
00:27:29,434 --> 00:27:32,730
on some of these great days of the early wine trade of

446
00:27:32,762 --> 00:27:36,410
California. I would go to a tasting, and Fess Parker would be there signing

447
00:27:36,442 --> 00:27:40,214
autographs with his Daniel Boone hat, but pouring off

448
00:27:42,354 --> 00:27:46,178
his wines. And then next booth would be Dicky Smothers pouring up

449
00:27:46,266 --> 00:27:49,938
his sonoma wines, and Pat Paulson, the famed comedian, pouring

450
00:27:49,986 --> 00:27:52,694
off refrigerator white.

451
00:27:53,434 --> 00:27:57,202
And those are the conversations you would have, and I'm glad we don't

452
00:27:57,218 --> 00:28:01,066
do that anymore. You're right. Those are places. And so we

453
00:28:01,090 --> 00:28:03,814
shouldn't be comparing our place to their place,

454
00:28:04,474 --> 00:28:08,242
because we aren't that place. Right. Well, yeah, I

455
00:28:08,258 --> 00:28:12,106
mean, I think, to your point, like you're talking about in the early days,

456
00:28:12,210 --> 00:28:15,922
we're still in the early days. Yeah, that's true. We're still trying to figure out.

457
00:28:15,978 --> 00:28:19,002
I mean, I think we've got a pretty good handle on, you know, where you

458
00:28:19,018 --> 00:28:21,690
can find good Pinot and where you can find good cab, where you can get

459
00:28:21,722 --> 00:28:25,506
great roan varieties. But I think, you know, when it

460
00:28:25,530 --> 00:28:29,306
comes down to it, we're still figuring everything out.

461
00:28:29,410 --> 00:28:32,810
And so I think that all of our wine traditions in this country,

462
00:28:33,002 --> 00:28:35,774
you know, the troops came home from World War Two

463
00:28:36,314 --> 00:28:39,914
and wanted wine all of a sudden. And so the wine industry

464
00:28:39,994 --> 00:28:43,650
was reborn. And so, you know, all that planting

465
00:28:43,722 --> 00:28:46,494
started in the sixties and seventies. Seventies. And

466
00:28:48,074 --> 00:28:51,442
so you have to have a place to give people

467
00:28:51,618 --> 00:28:55,450
context for the wines. My dad only bought vineyards in

468
00:28:55,482 --> 00:28:58,334
72 instead of starting a wine club.

469
00:29:00,554 --> 00:29:04,122
Because those are the guys that don't have to charge $90 a

470
00:29:04,138 --> 00:29:07,570
bottle. Yeah, because they paid for the land a long time ago. Sure.

471
00:29:07,642 --> 00:29:11,456
Yeah, yeah. But it is. California is

472
00:29:11,610 --> 00:29:15,084
in its infancy. I mean, it always will be compared to its

473
00:29:15,124 --> 00:29:18,660
counterparts in other parts of the world. It's interesting,

474
00:29:18,692 --> 00:29:22,396
too. They just got done with the master of wine program, the Institute

475
00:29:22,420 --> 00:29:26,004
of Masters of Wine, dropping the term

476
00:29:26,084 --> 00:29:29,892
old world from description

477
00:29:30,028 --> 00:29:33,676
and use during the academic pursuit

478
00:29:33,740 --> 00:29:37,028
of wine trade. And I think certainly the master of wine,

479
00:29:37,076 --> 00:29:40,450
psalm diploma. W said, are

480
00:29:40,482 --> 00:29:44,266
important academic accolades to earn depending on where

481
00:29:44,290 --> 00:29:48,114
you want to land in the wine business. But I just thought it

482
00:29:48,114 --> 00:29:51,938
was interesting that they dropped that nomenclature. Have

483
00:29:51,946 --> 00:29:54,254
you heard this? I haven't heard about it.

484
00:29:56,234 --> 00:29:59,578
I think there's a value to it, to using it.

485
00:29:59,626 --> 00:30:03,434
Yeah. Not only a style, but a

486
00:30:03,474 --> 00:30:06,004
location. Sure. I mean,

487
00:30:07,064 --> 00:30:10,800
I think it sounds like, oh, these are like wines from the. Old country

488
00:30:10,872 --> 00:30:14,648
or something. Right. I mean, I think that these

489
00:30:14,696 --> 00:30:18,496
days, that word just people know what it means

490
00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:22,072
to a certain degree. And, like, what does it mean? Right. Like, why wouldn't you

491
00:30:22,088 --> 00:30:25,864
just talk about Europe when you're talking about, you know, wines? Or, like,

492
00:30:25,904 --> 00:30:29,272
why wouldn't you talk about a specific country? So, I mean, I can

493
00:30:29,328 --> 00:30:33,162
understand maybe why someone might kind of balk at

494
00:30:33,178 --> 00:30:36,494
that a little bit, but, I mean, that's certainly nothing that I would

495
00:30:37,114 --> 00:30:40,214
vote for pushing out. I've always argued that it

496
00:30:40,834 --> 00:30:44,414
not only deals with just defining, let's say,

497
00:30:45,074 --> 00:30:48,458
more modern regions like Argentina. Oh, yeah.

498
00:30:48,586 --> 00:30:52,282
California, Australia, New Zealand,

499
00:30:52,378 --> 00:30:56,050
versus the historic vintages. Regions

500
00:30:56,082 --> 00:30:59,214
like Burgundy and Bordeaux in the 12th century, 11th century.

501
00:30:59,984 --> 00:31:03,704
And look, you've got to think and look at your

502
00:31:03,744 --> 00:31:06,608
career already that everything you do

503
00:31:06,736 --> 00:31:10,160
becomes influenced in the bottle

504
00:31:10,192 --> 00:31:14,000
eventually. In other words, if I've got a vineyard that was being

505
00:31:14,032 --> 00:31:17,040
farmed by Charlemagne in

506
00:31:17,072 --> 00:31:20,816
Burgundy, that these lessons have rolled forward,

507
00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:24,244
maybe they get truncated and diluted, but eventually

508
00:31:25,044 --> 00:31:28,724
they become part of the terroir. Right. The knowledge

509
00:31:28,764 --> 00:31:32,188
base becomes part of the terroir. And I think that's fascinating about wine.

510
00:31:32,356 --> 00:31:34,744
No other product in the world has that

511
00:31:36,164 --> 00:31:39,264
ability. I mean, maybe like

512
00:31:39,804 --> 00:31:43,276
en modena or, you know, and reggiano,

513
00:31:43,460 --> 00:31:47,244
they might disagree with that. I mean, but that's. Yeah,

514
00:31:47,284 --> 00:31:51,104
that is like, you know, the centuries and centuries of tradition.

515
00:31:51,964 --> 00:31:55,694
You know, that's a beautiful story, for one,

516
00:31:56,714 --> 00:31:59,414
and it's really special. And so I think

517
00:32:00,034 --> 00:32:03,586
tradition is a really beautiful part of wine.

518
00:32:03,650 --> 00:32:07,402
And I think that, back to when you're talking about, are

519
00:32:07,418 --> 00:32:11,002
you trying to make wines that express. Express a

520
00:32:11,018 --> 00:32:14,722
place? I think that's what, at

521
00:32:14,738 --> 00:32:17,894
the top level of winemaking that you're trying to do is

522
00:32:18,754 --> 00:32:22,448
you've got grapes grown on a piece of land that are turned into

523
00:32:22,496 --> 00:32:26,328
wine, and then your job is to basically make sure

524
00:32:26,376 --> 00:32:29,776
that you make the wine taste delicious, but

525
00:32:29,840 --> 00:32:33,200
also manage not to stomp and

526
00:32:33,232 --> 00:32:36,976
muddle the message from, you know, from the

527
00:32:37,000 --> 00:32:40,272
point where you've harvested the grapes to the point where people are drinking it. One

528
00:32:40,288 --> 00:32:43,448
of the greatest expressions of that was from a young woman who's making wine in

529
00:32:43,456 --> 00:32:47,160
Armenia her name is Julia de Guilla, and she runs a pretty

530
00:32:47,192 --> 00:32:50,172
large winery, and she runs one in Argentina for the same owner.

531
00:32:50,328 --> 00:32:54,036
And she goes, what other product can you carry halfway across the

532
00:32:54,060 --> 00:32:56,780
world? Plop on the table and say, this is when we were, and this is

533
00:32:56,812 --> 00:33:00,452
who we are. And I go, that's a fascinating expression that people do

534
00:33:00,468 --> 00:33:04,236
that I have this, again, going back to my romantic view of wine,

535
00:33:04,420 --> 00:33:08,132
that when somebody tastes

536
00:33:08,188 --> 00:33:11,824
a wine like that, that's true to its origins.

537
00:33:12,164 --> 00:33:15,932
Bad vintage are good. They were talking about the bad vintages of Bordeaux at a

538
00:33:15,948 --> 00:33:19,676
tasting the other day, and I'm like, yeah, but so you express what

539
00:33:19,700 --> 00:33:22,824
you got. It may not be as pleasant as the

540
00:33:23,324 --> 00:33:26,812
1990 Bordeaux, but you

541
00:33:26,868 --> 00:33:30,636
express that vintage. And so if I taste green or I

542
00:33:30,660 --> 00:33:34,452
taste whatever I taste in this wine is because you express

543
00:33:34,508 --> 00:33:38,116
that vintage. I think that's really important, maybe a little too romantic,

544
00:33:38,260 --> 00:33:41,956
but I always feel like, and it happens all the time

545
00:33:41,980 --> 00:33:44,886
with my friends at dinner, if I bring out a wine that I just think

546
00:33:44,910 --> 00:33:48,510
it's fascinating and they don't know why it's

547
00:33:48,542 --> 00:33:51,982
really good. Yeah. You know, they just go, this is really good. They don't have

548
00:33:51,998 --> 00:33:55,674
to know why. Right? But I think that happens to people

549
00:33:57,054 --> 00:34:00,406
at a proper vintage, at a not proper. A proper wine,

550
00:34:00,510 --> 00:34:04,086
properly made wine, an honestly made wine, let's put it that way, that you

551
00:34:04,110 --> 00:34:07,502
didn't put sugar in it, you didn't throw acid into it, you didn't change the

552
00:34:07,518 --> 00:34:11,360
color with mega purple, whatever that stuff is. You just made the wine,

553
00:34:11,542 --> 00:34:15,260
and that's expressed. And somebody goes, hmm, I'm

554
00:34:15,292 --> 00:34:18,892
starting to get this now. You don't have to understand the soil, the schist, and

555
00:34:18,908 --> 00:34:22,384
all of the crap in there, right? I mean, well, I mean,

556
00:34:23,644 --> 00:34:27,340
for the average wine drinker. No, I mean, that's the thing with wine,

557
00:34:27,372 --> 00:34:31,116
is the layers are there if you want them, and they're not if you don't.

558
00:34:31,180 --> 00:34:34,420
You can turn that off. I mean, it's hard for when you're in the business

559
00:34:34,492 --> 00:34:37,892
to turn it off. It took me a long time to be able to go

560
00:34:37,908 --> 00:34:41,380
to a party at someone's house and drink a cheap, you know, kind of

561
00:34:41,492 --> 00:34:44,892
plain glass of wine. I poured a popular wine last night at the

562
00:34:44,908 --> 00:34:48,184
funeral, and I went to my car

563
00:34:48,724 --> 00:34:52,572
and brought something in that I had brought just in case. And I

564
00:34:52,588 --> 00:34:56,276
know the wine well that I served, and everybody loved it. I

565
00:34:56,300 --> 00:35:00,092
couldn't drink it. Yeah, I mean, that's the scary

566
00:35:00,148 --> 00:35:03,564
part. Yeah, yeah, absolutely. I mean, when it comes to vintages,

567
00:35:03,644 --> 00:35:07,140
though, you know, I think, like, the way that we define vintages

568
00:35:07,212 --> 00:35:10,932
is difficult. You know, the people selling the

569
00:35:10,948 --> 00:35:14,024
wine and the people in the press

570
00:35:14,764 --> 00:35:18,460
basically just want something that's juicy and

571
00:35:18,532 --> 00:35:22,212
ripe and fun, you know, right out of the gate.

572
00:35:22,268 --> 00:35:26,116
Right? And so, you know, these cooler vintage wines, you know,

573
00:35:26,260 --> 00:35:30,100
you know, if you look at 2011, you know, Kapa Cabernet right now.

574
00:35:30,172 --> 00:35:33,924
Right. You know, they're gorgeous, right? You know, so those are just wines that you

575
00:35:33,964 --> 00:35:37,700
put away in the cellar and take your time on. And I understand that

576
00:35:37,732 --> 00:35:41,548
because when you're going out pouring wine for people, you know, you're not going

577
00:35:41,556 --> 00:35:45,284
to tell the person at the restaurant, like, oh, here, buy this wine from

578
00:35:45,324 --> 00:35:49,076
me now, and then keep it in

579
00:35:49,100 --> 00:35:52,556
your wine cellar for ten years. I mean, I know there

580
00:35:52,580 --> 00:35:56,284
are wonderful, amazing restaurants that do things like that,

581
00:35:56,444 --> 00:36:00,188
or maybe a distributor will hold back a little bit and

582
00:36:00,236 --> 00:36:03,644
try again in a few years, but that's just not the model that

583
00:36:03,764 --> 00:36:07,500
98% of people are operating on. I would imagine that's true.

584
00:36:07,532 --> 00:36:10,704
And most the argument, I think it's 48 hours.

585
00:36:11,334 --> 00:36:14,694
Like, 80% of the wine bought at the store is open in 48 hours. Right?

586
00:36:14,774 --> 00:36:17,750
So, I guess. And I guess that goes back to this consumerism thing. I mean,

587
00:36:17,782 --> 00:36:21,574
even Madame Clicquot was brilliant at figuring out the consumerism

588
00:36:21,614 --> 00:36:25,270
of the Russians and the English to get wines to them that they

589
00:36:25,302 --> 00:36:29,046
liked. And they were different. There were different cuvets that went to different countries.

590
00:36:29,150 --> 00:36:32,766
And I guess it's always been driven by consumers. Which leads me to this

591
00:36:32,790 --> 00:36:34,714
question, why the hell are you making Zinfandel?

592
00:36:36,574 --> 00:36:39,902
Well, yeah, so the fairy ring Zinfandel

593
00:36:39,998 --> 00:36:43,588
is, um, my own little 90 case, uh,

594
00:36:43,676 --> 00:36:47,500
project. And so my, um, two

595
00:36:47,532 --> 00:36:50,772
other jobs that I have, I wouldn't call the fairy ring a job as. As

596
00:36:50,868 --> 00:36:54,596
so much as an obligation. Right. Uh, but the, uh, Brooks

597
00:36:54,620 --> 00:36:58,172
note, the winery in Petaluma that I work for, and Toybox, who is a

598
00:36:58,188 --> 00:37:01,940
client of mine, we get all of the cab and cab

599
00:37:01,972 --> 00:37:05,692
franc out of a small vineyard in Calistoga. And so,

600
00:37:05,828 --> 00:37:09,610
um, toy box, before this, was making wine out of Pope Valley.

601
00:37:09,642 --> 00:37:12,534
But in 2020, the Cadden family

602
00:37:13,354 --> 00:37:16,770
vineyard that we sourced from actually caught on fire in

603
00:37:16,802 --> 00:37:20,090
2020. Yeah. So we kind of had to

604
00:37:20,202 --> 00:37:23,834
shift our production in 2021.

605
00:37:23,914 --> 00:37:27,130
I was working in a place called Joseph Sellers in Calistoga,

606
00:37:27,282 --> 00:37:30,882
and one of our clients there was Heidi

607
00:37:30,898 --> 00:37:34,682
Barrett. So we worked on the La Sirena and Lambourne family and

608
00:37:34,818 --> 00:37:38,348
Barrett. And Barrett wine. So that was a great experience. But the vineyard

609
00:37:38,396 --> 00:37:41,804
manager for Joseph Sellers was a guy named Gerardo,

610
00:37:41,884 --> 00:37:45,100
and I just asked him, hey, I'm looking for a little

611
00:37:45,132 --> 00:37:48,264
cabernet, you know, of anything. He says,

612
00:37:48,764 --> 00:37:52,476
I think I can help you. Meet me at this address, you

613
00:37:52,500 --> 00:37:56,220
know, this afternoon. And so I went and met this guy

614
00:37:56,252 --> 00:37:59,868
named Jack Smith, who's got this tiny vineyard called Marcy's Vineyard

615
00:37:59,996 --> 00:38:03,788
in his backyard across the Napa river

616
00:38:03,836 --> 00:38:07,330
from the fairgrounds in Calistoga. And

617
00:38:07,522 --> 00:38:11,094
we went down, he's got this shipping container kind of

618
00:38:11,874 --> 00:38:15,530
three quarters of the way buried into the bank of

619
00:38:15,562 --> 00:38:19,154
the Napa river there. And we went down there and tasting

620
00:38:19,194 --> 00:38:22,762
barrels. Wow, how cool that they had kind of just made

621
00:38:22,818 --> 00:38:26,242
there on site with no forklifts or anything,

622
00:38:26,298 --> 00:38:30,002
just all by hand. And so

623
00:38:30,138 --> 00:38:33,692
toy box and Brooks note split all of the

624
00:38:33,748 --> 00:38:37,524
Bordeaux varieties out of the vineyard. And Gerardo then said, well,

625
00:38:37,604 --> 00:38:40,916
you guys want the zinn, too. There's, like five rows of Zen.

626
00:38:41,100 --> 00:38:44,572
Wow. And I said, no, neither of my guys wants the Zen. He's like, well,

627
00:38:44,588 --> 00:38:48,212
what about you? I said, I don't have any money, you know? He said, well,

628
00:38:48,268 --> 00:38:52,084
let's work something out. And so I ended up trading 15

629
00:38:52,164 --> 00:38:55,996
cases of wine for my first ton of grapes. Wow. Congratulations. That's great. That's

630
00:38:56,020 --> 00:38:59,254
what I loved about the really wine business. There's a lot of bars going on.

631
00:38:59,334 --> 00:39:02,862
Yeah. I mean, you know, it's like we've all got, you

632
00:39:02,878 --> 00:39:06,358
know, one person's problem is another person's solution. Right.

633
00:39:06,486 --> 00:39:09,974
And, you know, so long as you're dealing with

634
00:39:10,014 --> 00:39:13,766
quality stuff, like, there's no real problems. Yeah. They'd rather see it made

635
00:39:13,790 --> 00:39:17,134
into wine and make a deal on it than get it. Let it hang there

636
00:39:17,174 --> 00:39:20,790
forever. Yeah. So, I mean, you know, the Zinfandel

637
00:39:20,822 --> 00:39:24,126
just kind of landed in my lap, and I. And, you know, I've been at

638
00:39:24,150 --> 00:39:27,872
this for a little while now, and, you know, every winemaker wants to kind

639
00:39:27,888 --> 00:39:31,712
of have their own sort of project. And so I just felt like

640
00:39:31,728 --> 00:39:32,444
it was.

641
00:39:35,624 --> 00:39:39,208
I felt like it was nudging me in a direction. And that's great.

642
00:39:39,336 --> 00:39:42,872
You know, it's like when you're thinking about having kids, you're never

643
00:39:42,928 --> 00:39:46,712
really ready. Right. And so I

644
00:39:46,728 --> 00:39:50,416
just figured it was a good thing just to get started and

645
00:39:50,600 --> 00:39:54,444
working on it. Isn't it a great versatile grape? Yes.

646
00:39:56,044 --> 00:39:59,620
Can produce port style wines. It can produce white Zinfandel and can

647
00:39:59,652 --> 00:40:03,464
produce, you know, structured, acidic wines and has great.

648
00:40:03,844 --> 00:40:07,676
It has a capability to absorb terroir as well. Yeah.

649
00:40:07,740 --> 00:40:11,196
You can tell when one is from Lodi or one's from Napa. So that's. Yeah,

650
00:40:11,260 --> 00:40:15,020
I think that's great. So you have 90 cases, which, you know, certainly

651
00:40:15,052 --> 00:40:18,836
you're not going to retire making and selling 90 cases. You have

652
00:40:18,860 --> 00:40:22,524
ambition to grow that brand into. I'm

653
00:40:22,564 --> 00:40:26,212
taking it slow right now. I've got two other jobs

654
00:40:26,268 --> 00:40:29,304
that I'm working on, and I got a seven year old daughter

655
00:40:29,844 --> 00:40:32,860
that I really enjoy spending time with.

656
00:40:33,012 --> 00:40:35,344
Yeah. And so

657
00:40:37,004 --> 00:40:40,796
I'm taking it nice and slow. I don't want to rack

658
00:40:40,820 --> 00:40:44,388
up a bunch of debt and then not have time to go out and sell

659
00:40:44,436 --> 00:40:48,012
something. So right now, it's at a fun level right now

660
00:40:48,148 --> 00:40:51,068
where I can go out and work on selling it if I need to. I

661
00:40:51,076 --> 00:40:54,544
can share it with friends. I can donate it to my daughter's school for

662
00:40:54,844 --> 00:40:58,144
dinners and things like that. And you get

663
00:40:58,964 --> 00:41:02,556
a little more experience every time you do it, right? Yeah. A little more understanding,

664
00:41:02,580 --> 00:41:06,316
a little more. Yeah. And so with

665
00:41:06,340 --> 00:41:09,820
Zinfandel, I'm definitely

666
00:41:09,972 --> 00:41:13,380
into making a more kind of restrained style.

667
00:41:13,532 --> 00:41:16,424
And I have no dogma about

668
00:41:17,084 --> 00:41:20,300
when I'm in a picket and what the alcohol needs to be or anything like

669
00:41:20,332 --> 00:41:24,042
that. Just gotta taste delicious. It's gotta have no residual sugar in

670
00:41:24,058 --> 00:41:27,722
it. It can't taste like a box of

671
00:41:27,738 --> 00:41:31,290
raisins. That's tough. And so

672
00:41:31,482 --> 00:41:35,254
I think, so far, what I've been able to do with it is make

673
00:41:37,834 --> 00:41:41,014
a medium bodied,

674
00:41:43,114 --> 00:41:46,866
acid driven Zinfandel that's got beautiful

675
00:41:47,050 --> 00:41:50,874
kind of layers in it of various fruits. I blended

676
00:41:50,914 --> 00:41:54,738
a little petite syrah into the 22 vintage, which kind of gave it a

677
00:41:54,746 --> 00:41:58,570
little bit of depth and darker fruit flavors and things like

678
00:41:58,602 --> 00:42:02,170
that. But the vineyard wants to do this

679
00:42:02,242 --> 00:42:06,026
really beautiful, floral, peachy, hibiscus

680
00:42:06,090 --> 00:42:07,614
kind of thing. So.

681
00:42:09,914 --> 00:42:13,662
The notes that the zimpandel provides naturally are just gorgeous. But I

682
00:42:13,678 --> 00:42:16,582
do like that petite syrah in there, just to give it a little bit more

683
00:42:16,638 --> 00:42:20,222
of the low end. A little bit more dark fruit, little acid. Yeah, a little

684
00:42:20,238 --> 00:42:23,686
more. Well, therein lies the thing. I want to tell you a quick story, because

685
00:42:23,710 --> 00:42:27,406
I went up to. I went to the African association of

686
00:42:27,430 --> 00:42:31,022
African American Vendors, and they had a tasting two Sundays

687
00:42:31,038 --> 00:42:34,470
ago at the copia, the CIA

688
00:42:34,542 --> 00:42:38,094
copia by oxbow, and I tasted about 75

689
00:42:38,134 --> 00:42:41,234
wines, all of african american

690
00:42:41,354 --> 00:42:44,970
descent, which is a growing issue in the

691
00:42:45,002 --> 00:42:48,054
industry. BIPOC women in the trade

692
00:42:48,554 --> 00:42:51,586
trying to get past the

693
00:42:51,610 --> 00:42:55,178
aristocracy. I've never thought there was a

694
00:42:55,306 --> 00:42:58,654
deliberate, exclusionary part of the wine trade.

695
00:42:59,034 --> 00:43:02,690
It's just an intimidating industry. But for

696
00:43:02,722 --> 00:43:06,570
oddball stuff that we, you know, and not that Zinz oddball,

697
00:43:06,642 --> 00:43:10,374
because it's obviously mainstream, and it was very popular in the seventies,

698
00:43:10,834 --> 00:43:14,346
but it's, you know, it's. It's a tougher sell in a market where it's congested

699
00:43:14,370 --> 00:43:18,014
with Cabernet and Pinot things. A woman was making

700
00:43:18,754 --> 00:43:22,454
a canned method champagne. Champagne.

701
00:43:22,994 --> 00:43:26,522
Wow. And so your first question is, as I was standing there was like, how

702
00:43:26,538 --> 00:43:29,374
do you disgorge it? She goes, we don't.

703
00:43:30,134 --> 00:43:32,954
Hmm. So now. Yeah, see, that's it.

704
00:43:34,214 --> 00:43:37,838
So, you know, the rose actually

705
00:43:37,886 --> 00:43:41,702
was pretty palatable wine. It was pretty interesting. But, you know,

706
00:43:41,718 --> 00:43:45,422
you've got this yeast thing going on in there, this spent yeast cells in

707
00:43:45,438 --> 00:43:49,238
this can. Yeah. And I was thinking, you know, how they, you know, they have

708
00:43:49,246 --> 00:43:52,526
the SWOT analysis, you know, you go heavy light or whatever, how they figured out,

709
00:43:52,550 --> 00:43:56,366
like, light beer was a. Was a potential marketplace, and

710
00:43:56,390 --> 00:43:59,972
you plug the holes. So where she saw

711
00:44:00,148 --> 00:44:03,860
cans and then method champagne wa. Was this empty

712
00:44:03,932 --> 00:44:07,708
space, but felt like that there was a marketplace for it.

713
00:44:07,876 --> 00:44:10,756
I'm trying to figure that one out, because so much of what we do is

714
00:44:10,820 --> 00:44:14,588
marketing, branding, and. Yeah, I think your strategy for your zin

715
00:44:14,636 --> 00:44:18,340
to grow slow and get some traction and see if it

716
00:44:18,492 --> 00:44:21,516
gets a hold, because building a brand on the wine business is almost, you know,

717
00:44:21,580 --> 00:44:25,084
virtually impossible. Yeah, well, there's only five rows in this vineyard,

718
00:44:25,124 --> 00:44:28,868
so that's how you're gonna grow, right? Yeah, I mean, you know,

719
00:44:29,036 --> 00:44:32,332
there are some. I mean, you know, I live in Santa Rosa,

720
00:44:32,468 --> 00:44:35,980
and, you know, Napa's got great zen, for sure.

721
00:44:36,172 --> 00:44:39,844
You know, folks like Biale and, you know, once in

722
00:44:39,884 --> 00:44:43,412
future, you know, Ridge. Yeah.

723
00:44:43,548 --> 00:44:47,196
And Montellaina has been making a great zen for years

724
00:44:47,220 --> 00:44:50,532
and years. And then you go over to Sonoma county and, yeah, you've got, you

725
00:44:50,548 --> 00:44:54,116
know, Sonoma Valley, which has all those wonderful field blends, and

726
00:44:54,220 --> 00:44:57,700
litten springs, as you mentioned, ridge, you know, dry Creek Valley's just

727
00:44:57,732 --> 00:45:01,304
got. I worked very good for. Yeah, I worked for Moritz and family

728
00:45:01,724 --> 00:45:05,436
out there for about a year, and they're

729
00:45:05,460 --> 00:45:08,996
making great zin. So there's a lot of opportunities and plenty of vineyards up

730
00:45:09,020 --> 00:45:12,700
there, even in the russian river, there's some really great old gnarly

731
00:45:12,852 --> 00:45:16,544
zin vineyards out there. So I think there's opportunity, but I think

732
00:45:17,924 --> 00:45:21,500
I want to try making a couple other things as well. And it's kind of

733
00:45:21,532 --> 00:45:25,372
nice to have a California classic if you've got to pick

734
00:45:25,428 --> 00:45:29,112
one wine to show somebody from another country. What is

735
00:45:29,128 --> 00:45:32,840
California wine? I mean, this is the true, unique kind

736
00:45:32,872 --> 00:45:36,464
of wine of the area. Well, before

737
00:45:36,544 --> 00:45:40,296
DNA testing of grapes, it was possibly

738
00:45:40,360 --> 00:45:44,184
considered an indigenous Vitis vinifera

739
00:45:44,224 --> 00:45:47,360
grape. For California, but it's later. It's been disproven that. Maybe even for

740
00:45:47,392 --> 00:45:51,000
Persia, but that's a good point. It would be

741
00:45:51,032 --> 00:45:54,240
something that we would call Hazarathi. Brought it in 18. Whatever.

742
00:45:54,352 --> 00:45:58,186
Yeah. You know, that's where we hang our laurels. You know, there's

743
00:45:58,210 --> 00:46:01,746
a guy in Missouri. You should listen to the podcast. Jerry

744
00:46:01,770 --> 00:46:05,574
Eisterhold, he was on the show a few weeks ago, who's

745
00:46:05,874 --> 00:46:08,974
done this amazing research and found these

746
00:46:09,714 --> 00:46:13,386
Lambrusca grapes that made all of the wines

747
00:46:13,450 --> 00:46:17,226
before prohibition that were american. Cause

748
00:46:17,250 --> 00:46:20,754
that part of the world, at least part of the country, was very prolific wine.

749
00:46:20,834 --> 00:46:24,298
Louisiana, Ohio, you know, Michigan, all those places. The first Ava

750
00:46:24,346 --> 00:46:28,148
is in Missouri, right? Yeah, right. He's

751
00:46:28,276 --> 00:46:31,788
propagated like a dozen, maybe even more of these

752
00:46:31,836 --> 00:46:35,436
grapes, and he's already abandoned four of them going. I don't know how you make

753
00:46:35,460 --> 00:46:39,060
wine out of this, because it's just not working. But

754
00:46:39,252 --> 00:46:43,012
the Smithsonian wrote about him, and I got the Smithsonian

755
00:46:43,068 --> 00:46:46,820
four pack. It just got delivered last week. Of wines. Of grapes you

756
00:46:46,852 --> 00:46:50,184
and I have never heard of in our lives. And I'm not sure

757
00:46:50,884 --> 00:46:54,660
if I invite friends over to taste them with me or not.

758
00:46:54,772 --> 00:46:58,460
Well, yeah. It's got to be the right friends. To figure this

759
00:46:58,492 --> 00:47:02,260
out. So we're almost at. We're already at 47 minutes,

760
00:47:02,292 --> 00:47:05,172
which is unbelievable. But I did want to touch, you know, you. You have an

761
00:47:05,228 --> 00:47:09,004
interesting history with some of these winers, with Joseph Sellers, you

762
00:47:09,004 --> 00:47:11,860
know, Barrett. And Barrett. I know Bo Barrett. I mean, I went to school with

763
00:47:11,892 --> 00:47:15,548
his brother Kevin, but Claire Bowen and

764
00:47:15,556 --> 00:47:19,084
Churchill, I mean, that's what a fascinating group. And they make dry

765
00:47:19,124 --> 00:47:22,660
riesling, and one of my first wines I ever bought as

766
00:47:22,692 --> 00:47:26,442
a. In the wine club and always a go to when I

767
00:47:26,458 --> 00:47:30,106
needed something because the wines are such quality. What'd you do there? I worked my

768
00:47:30,130 --> 00:47:33,970
first harvest there. Really? Yeah. Yeah. So I was going to Cal Poly slow,

769
00:47:34,122 --> 00:47:37,602
and at the time, I just

770
00:47:37,658 --> 00:47:41,410
really was interested in making stuff that was different. And so

771
00:47:41,602 --> 00:47:45,402
they make some nice pinots, and Edna Valley is a great terroir for

772
00:47:45,418 --> 00:47:48,858
Pinot Noir. And, yeah, I was really

773
00:47:48,906 --> 00:47:52,380
interested in just, you know, making. So glad they're still

774
00:47:52,412 --> 00:47:55,628
around. Yeah. Yeah. Clay and Frederica are wonderful

775
00:47:55,676 --> 00:47:59,044
folks. I still think about every harvest

776
00:47:59,124 --> 00:48:02,788
that Frederica would come down with, you know, these

777
00:48:02,876 --> 00:48:06,068
beautiful sandwiches that were homemade and wrapped in wax

778
00:48:06,116 --> 00:48:08,744
paper and all that stuff. And

779
00:48:09,844 --> 00:48:13,404
my friend Kyle, who's got his own brand called Minus Tide

780
00:48:13,484 --> 00:48:16,184
with my friend Brad and Miriam,

781
00:48:17,434 --> 00:48:20,914
he was the other intern there with me and Kobe

782
00:48:20,954 --> 00:48:24,650
Parker Garcia was the winemaker he's got a brand called El

783
00:48:24,682 --> 00:48:28,414
Lugar out of San Luis Obispo as well. So

784
00:48:29,074 --> 00:48:32,578
I have a lot of great memories from that first harvest. I think most people

785
00:48:32,626 --> 00:48:36,410
do, if they landed at a decent place, have a lot of

786
00:48:36,442 --> 00:48:40,018
memories from their first harvest, and those were all great folks.

787
00:48:40,066 --> 00:48:43,854
And think back on that, there's a. Lot of loyalty in this industry.

788
00:48:44,474 --> 00:48:47,906
Not on the selling side. From the distributor standpoint, there's no

789
00:48:47,930 --> 00:48:51,262
loyalty, but from the. The authenticity of the

790
00:48:51,278 --> 00:48:54,870
winemaker and the winery. And so, like I said earlier, you know, my

791
00:48:54,902 --> 00:48:58,582
dad did some clair Bone and Churchill. I did a few. And

792
00:48:58,638 --> 00:49:02,382
whenever my back was against the wall to find something domestic that I thought would

793
00:49:02,398 --> 00:49:06,038
be interesting to show the club, I reached out to him. Yeah. And they always

794
00:49:06,086 --> 00:49:09,766
appreciated it. Yeah, that's awesome. Yeah. They always just thought, you know, thanks for calling.

795
00:49:09,830 --> 00:49:13,630
Maybe it was 24 months between or three years even before I would contact

796
00:49:13,702 --> 00:49:17,502
them, but they always had something, and they're always a

797
00:49:17,518 --> 00:49:20,910
little bit different than the other guys. You know, I always really appreciated that

798
00:49:20,942 --> 00:49:24,754
relationship. So, you know, we have a. We could talk again.

799
00:49:25,334 --> 00:49:28,606
I have to move on today. It's been a

800
00:49:28,630 --> 00:49:32,382
fascinating journey in your career. Yeah.

801
00:49:32,438 --> 00:49:35,206
And I wish you all the great luck. Well, thank you. I appreciate it. This

802
00:49:35,230 --> 00:49:39,014
industry brings to the table because it's fascinating and it's

803
00:49:39,054 --> 00:49:41,474
fun, and it's. I think

804
00:49:42,454 --> 00:49:46,206
Hinman, he was the winemaker at Yao

805
00:49:46,230 --> 00:49:50,022
Ming's place for a while, and he said, I meet amazing people,

806
00:49:50,118 --> 00:49:53,822
go to amazing places, drink amazing wine, eat amazing food. I may

807
00:49:53,838 --> 00:49:57,494
not make a lot of money, but you know what? It's not bad.

808
00:49:57,614 --> 00:50:01,438
Yeah, yeah, absolutely. I mean, it's a fun industry to be in,

809
00:50:01,486 --> 00:50:04,950
and you work hard and there are

810
00:50:04,982 --> 00:50:08,806
challenges, but being around people that kind of love

811
00:50:08,830 --> 00:50:12,374
what they're doing and have a shared passion is always

812
00:50:12,414 --> 00:50:16,046
great. What's next? Today I'm headed down to the

813
00:50:16,070 --> 00:50:19,878
wine country in Long beach. My old. I was the domestic buyer at

814
00:50:19,886 --> 00:50:23,662
the wine, Randy Kemner. Yeah. So I worked with them for

815
00:50:23,678 --> 00:50:27,470
a year, and that's actually where I came up in my

816
00:50:27,502 --> 00:50:31,286
journey in wine, was learning about european wines by going to

817
00:50:31,310 --> 00:50:34,838
tastings there with Samantha, the champagne buyer, and GM

818
00:50:34,886 --> 00:50:38,390
there. And they've always been

819
00:50:38,542 --> 00:50:41,926
great to me. And it's always fun to go back and visit and pour the

820
00:50:41,950 --> 00:50:45,516
wines now that I'm out making wine. That's great. He's a great guy. Been doing

821
00:50:45,540 --> 00:50:49,164
this for a long time. Yeah. And talk about passion. You know, those folks are

822
00:50:49,204 --> 00:50:52,860
really passionate. And, you know, if you love champagne, if you love rose.

823
00:50:52,932 --> 00:50:56,356
That's definitely a place you gotta visit. I was

824
00:50:56,420 --> 00:50:59,624
fascinated to watch him because he was in the wholesale trade for a while and,

825
00:51:00,284 --> 00:51:03,548
you know, opening a store, brutal hours.

826
00:51:03,636 --> 00:51:07,036
Retail is retail. You know, he can't change that. And

827
00:51:07,140 --> 00:51:10,890
he's successful at it. And that's pretty unusual these days. So

828
00:51:11,002 --> 00:51:13,934
say hi to them for me. Will do. Cheers. Cheers.

829
00:51:22,834 --> 00:51:26,170
Thank you for listening to wine talks with Paul, Callum, Cary. And don't forget to

830
00:51:26,202 --> 00:51:29,354
subscribe because there's more great interviews on their way.

831
00:51:29,514 --> 00:51:32,834
Folks, have a great time out there in the wine world. Cheers.